Independents
SJX's post unveils De Bethune's exciting new models for 2012, showcasing the brand's continuous innovation and distinctive aesthetic. This article highlights the evolution of the popular DB28 with the Aiguille d'Or and Special Edition variants, alongside the versatile Dream Watch IV. It offers a glimpse into De Bethune's commitment to unique designs and advanced watchmaking techniques.
De Bethune always presents interesting and beautiful timepieces. This year is no exception.
The DB28 of last year is now available in two new guises. The first is the DB28 Aiguille d’Or (“golden hand”) which has a gold insert on the minute hand. This commemorates the Golden Hand award the DB28 won at last year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve.
In addition this DB28 also has a display back, revealing the movement with the graceful looking power reserve mechanism.
Next is the DB28 Special Edition which has a display back like the Aiguille d’Or. This Special Edition is entirely in entirely in black and silver tones. The case is polished titanium while the lugs are zirconium. David Zanetta noted that using zirconium for the lugs was the only method of achieving this particular colour, without resorting to using a coating which is anathema to his philosophy since it can wear off.
To keep the monochromatic look, this special edition uses blackened steel and platinum for the spherical moon. And the final point of difference with the regular DB28 is the openworked index around the dial.
Inspired by the piece made for Only Watch 2011, the Dream Watch IV is a wandering hours watch that can be converted from a wristwatch to a pocket to an iPhone case by removing the watch and inserting it into the appropriate frame.
The iPhone case and either watch can be used simultaneously, as a medallion can substitute the watch in the iPhone case. And it should be noted that the case can be changed to fit a new smart phone while retaining the watch.
The dial of the watch is blued titanium with stars in gold and diamonds.
A $130,000 iPhone case is silly, and it is impractically heavy, but this is a beautifully crafted; all that polished titanium looks stunning. This is a limited edition of 12 pieces.
The last new model revealed (but there’s more coming at Baselworld I can’t show here) is the DB25 Ninth Mayan Underworld.
There is an extraordinarily complex explanation behind the Mayan calendar and the significance of 2012 but in brief the name of the watch refers to the ninth underworld which apparently comes this year, as I understand it. The somewhat morbid name belies a gorgeous watch. A watch like this could easily have looked tacky like a tourist souvenir but it is stunning.
This limited edition of 12 pieces has a solid gold dial centre featuring various Mayan glyphs. These are intricate and fine, yet clearly hand-engraved. In contrast the index with the hour numerals (numbered in Mayan fashion with a dot for one and a bar for five) is engraved by machine resulting in clean, constant lines. So as not to obscure the dial, the hands are sapphire with blue steel tips.
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For the full SIHH 2012 report in SIHH forum, http://basel.watchprosite.com/show-forumpost/fi-636/pi-5114288/ti-769238/s-0/
De Bethune DB28 Reference DB28
The DB28 represents De Bethune's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie, featuring the brand's distinctive floating lug design within a 42.6mm case format. This reference showcases the manufacture's technical capabilities through its extended power reserve specification and proprietary movement caliber.
The 42.6mm titanium case houses the manual-winding caliber DB2115, delivering a 120-hour power reserve. The silver dial is protected by sapphire crystal, while the characteristic floating lugs define the case architecture. Water resistance extends to 30 meters, and the watch is completed with a leather strap.
This reference appeals to collectors focused on independent Swiss manufacture capabilities and contemporary case design. The DB28 represents De Bethune's technical approach to manual-winding movements, particularly notable for collectors interested in extended power reserve complications. Production commenced in 2010, positioning this reference within the brand's modern catalog offerings.
to use that to launch a golden hand edition... sigh.... Frivolous new offering for me and I hope this is not a sign of things to come from DB. Finally, just my view of course.
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