F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum Unveiled

KIH · 2012-10-05T09:39:51Z

KIH reports on the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum launch in Tokyo, detailing its innovative escapement, movement efficiency, and design.

KIH

WPS member · Horological Meandering forum

68 replies22475 views28 photos

KIH provides a flash report from the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum's world premiere in Tokyo, offering an exclusive first look at this significant new release. His detailed account captures the excitement of the event and introduces the technical innovations of the Optimum movement. This report is essential for understanding the initial reception and technical details of a key F.P. Journe chronometer.

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I was fortunately able to attend the launch party at FPJ Boutique in Tokyo, thanks to a good friend of mine who has invitation. As the World Premier of Optimum, there were so many people at the event. Note that FPJ is the brand which is kinda cultish here in Japan. And he seems to like Japan, so here he first unveiled Optimum.

Since this report requires speed, my report may not be sufficient, but I hope I can convey you the gist of the new offering or innovation of FPJ.

FPJ Boutique in Aoyama (unlike other brands which are mostly located in Ginza area) - this is the first time for me to visit (!)

Opening remark by M. F.P. Journe himself.

Special guest - M. Jean Alesi, former F1 Driver. His partner is former Japanese actress, but not only that, he is apparently a good friend of Mr. Journe. He also came for F1 in Suzuka this coming weekend (not sure whether he will do the demo run on the historical machine).

Crowd are listening to M. Journe's opening speech.

Many Jean Alesi related display.

Nice clock....

Now, this is it! Platinum.

Rose Gold

Explaining the fans what the secret of the new escapement.

Cakes?

Sushi, all you can eat

According to M. Journe, in this new escapement, there are two escape wheels, but it has Swiss Lever ankle. The ankle (or anchor) has 4 hands (usually, two) - two to start, two to stop. Similar to detent escapement, but completely new idea. Somewhat similar to Natural Escapement I recently saw in Laurent Ferrier's Micro-Rotor, but different. According to him, those "old" escapement ideas are not for today's wrist watches. They were for pocket watches. So, this new escapement is "optimum" for today's wrist watches and all the good thing about Swiss Lever escapement and natural escapement were taken in. All bad things about them are all left out.

"Optimum" means more about efficiency and stability of the movement. It doesn't mean totally accurate all the time however you wear it. It promises to be stable in certain position (of course it is as accurate as other chronometers in other positions as well) and the stability stays very long time. No need for oil in the escapement module, by the way.

This is one of the present to the guest (watch cleaning cloth), but the escapement is clearly printed here.

Here is the video which was in the gift package for all the attendees (link posted by permission).

Press papers (sorry for the smallish scan). There are "some" explanation about the escapement.

We were allowed to handle the actual one.

There is another Dead Second subdial on the back of the watch directly from the Remontoir. Runs counter-clockwise.

Present to M. Alesi

Thank you speech by M. Alesi

Optimum cake, which was eaten later - so did I

Guests' wrist shots.

Oh, well, he had FPJ on his left wrist and this was on his right wrist....

That's it! I hope as the premier tour goes around, someone who understands more about the escapement mechanism hopefully explain better than I did.

Thanks!

Ken

Special thanks to:
FPJ Boutique Tokyo
Ms. Kitano - PR Manager
and
M. F.P. Journe

This message has been edited by KIH on 2012-10-06 16:55:05 This message has been edited by MTF on 2012-10-08 04:39:41

About the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain Ref. chronometre

The F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain represents the foundational timepiece within the brand's Souveraine collection. This reference demonstrates the manufacture's approach to precision timekeeping through manual winding mechanics, positioned as a core offering in F.P. Journe's lineup.

The 40mm case is executed in 18k rose gold with a fixed bezel configuration. A sapphire crystal protects the silver dial, while the manual-winding caliber 1304 movement provides an 80-hour power reserve. The timepiece features 30-meter water resistance and is paired with a leather strap. Production commenced in 2000.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking F.P. Journe's mechanical execution in a fundamental three-hand configuration. The substantial power reserve and manual winding caliber position this model for enthusiasts who appreciate traditional watchmaking approaches within the Souveraine series framework.

Specifications

Caliber: 1304

Case: 18k Rose Gold

Diameter: 40 mm

Dial: Silver

Water Resist.: 30m

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

The Chronomètre Optimum features a complex chronometer mechanism with twin barrels, a remontoir, and an efficient escapement geometry that does not require lubrication, building on F.P. Journe's reputation for intricate movements.
The new escapement utilizes two escape wheels and a Swiss Lever anchor with four hands, a novel approach designed for efficiency and stability in wristwatches, distinct from older escapement ideas for pocket watches.
The watch is available in 40mm and 42mm sizes, departing from previous 38mm and 40mm offerings, with the platinum version estimated around JPY 7-8 million (approx. USD 100K).
Some collectors find the dial's extensive text and power reserve layout aesthetically challenging, despite appreciating F.P. Journe's technical prowess.
The Tokyo boutique is noted as potentially the first F.P. Journe boutique outside Switzerland, highlighting Japan's significant appreciation for the brand.
The 'Optimum' name emphasizes efficiency and stability, promising consistent performance in certain positions over extended periods, rather than absolute accuracy in all conditions.

The Discussion

schen

Oct 5, 2012

This is absolutely wonderful. Finally, the official release of Chronometre Optimum. Well worth the long wait. Bravo!

small-luxury-world

Oct 5, 2012

great report. You catched the ambience, the people, the watches and you provided some serious content. What more can we ask for? Did you like the watch on your wrist? Is it wearable for "smaller" wrists? Is it affordable for those with not that deep pockets? OK, will give you a rest (for) now :-) Thanks! Oliver

aaronm

Oct 5, 2012

Thanks for the report! From the animation, it looks like that escapement is some sort of lever/detent hybrid. It has the direct impulse of the detent, but uses two wheels maybe to get rid of the spring and the possibility of running away if it gets hit at the wrong angle a

donizetti

Oct 5, 2012

boy have I been waiting for this and after a string of pieces that did not excite me this really captures my imagination. Much appreciated! Best Andreas

amanico

Oct 5, 2012

Was not optimum? ;) Best, Nicolas

moc

Oct 5, 2012

As I mentioned in a post to bluenotte that was deleted, I appreciate the effort and the technical prowess of mr Journe, But the watch falls very short on expectation from the design point of view. The layout is quite ugly(especially the power reserve) and then as many times in FPJ watches, far too much text going on, why do we have to be reminded all the features every time we look at it? After all we know what we buy don't we? Sadly not for me, Thanks Ken for the report....... Mo

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About the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain Ref. chronometre

Specifications

Key Points from the Discussion

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