Geneva Watch Days: A Deep Dive into Independent Horology with H. Moser & Cie., F.P. Journe, and Urwerk
Independents

Geneva Watch Days: A Deep Dive into Independent Horology with H. Moser & Cie., F.P. Journe, and Urwerk

By holdemchamp1225 · Aug 28, 2020 · 59 replies
holdemchamp1225
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In this extensive photo essay, holdemchamp1225 provides an exclusive look into the independent watchmakers showcased at Geneva Watch Days. His detailed report captures the essence of these horological masterpieces, offering a rare glimpse into the craftsmanship and innovation that define the independent sector. Readers will appreciate his firsthand accounts and stunning photography, bringing the event's most compelling timepieces to life.

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I started a thread a few days ago asking if anyone was going or had any questions regarding the Independents showing at Geneva. I published the agenda I had in regards to seeing and speaking with several while there. You can see the list in the other thread. Also got a chance to sit down and talk a bit further with Max Busser, Pascal Raffy, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele (my friend's boss and owner of Chopard), etc...Needless to say, it was an amazing and informative experience. It took quite a but of time to edit and organize these photos so hope they all upload properly and that you enjoy πŸ˜‰ As for dialogue, questions, etc...it could be posted in another thread or simply responded to within this thread. Just want to focus on the photos taken. As there were way too many photos taken and not enough time to edit all of them, I cherry-picked the ones I liked. I also have numerous videos which show some of these masterpieces much better but unfortunately we cannot post videos here so anyone interested can hit me up personally and I can send them to you directly 😊 πŸ˜‰ Now on to the photos. We started off with Moser. This Tourbillon is based on an old Moser pocket watch (Gousset) and when I was speaking to Γ‰douard Meylan, he showed me the old pocket watch as well as described this one and why he made it. The case is hand engraved and the sides are blue-enameled.











Next up were the fume dials. I really like the blue lagoon and funky blue dials. The new models come with Moser's double hairspring as well.



































The mosaic dials were also amazing in person.



































































The new green fumΓ© dial Streamliner is superb. The size is great and if the bracelet is properly fitted, it wears like a dream. At this price point, I believe it will be a huge success for Moser, especially for those on a waiting list for an Aquanaut, Nautilus, Royal Oak, VC OS 4500V, etc...























Next was De Bethune which is a personal favorite.































































This next one is just unreal. The bridges are made from sapphire crystal as well 🀯







































































There were lots of other De Bethune models but we have already seen them posted elsewhere. Now on to Urwerk. Unfortunately, we saw multiple models but the majority were under embargo so I cannot publish photos here. I can however show one model πŸ€·β€β™‚οΈ















On to Ferdinand Berthoud, which impressed me most in terms of quality and finish. As good as they look in photos and videos, they are so much better in real life and on the wrist. The new movement is JAW-DROPPING. You have to see the videos I took so PM me and I will send them to those interested directly πŸ˜‰.







































































Bucherer was next but nothing worth mentioning here IMHO so we will skip to Louis Moinet of which I was not very familiar. Met the owner who was super gracious and welcoming. They had an interesting exhibition which included movie and TV memorabilia. I selected a few pieces which stood out below.



























Now on to Bovet. I knew about Bovet but not as much as some of the other Independents. What I saw really opened my eyes to the brand. Mr. Pascal Raffy is just as charming and passionate as JCB. Bovet is a true manufacturer in every sense of the word now, even though their history was not always like that. They employ one of the best (if not the best) miniature painters in the world, same applies to one of the best master engravers, etc...If you have never seen or held a Bovet before, I would highly recommend doing so. It really shocked me the amount of work and art that is involved in one of their creations.



























































































































































































This last one was BONKERS. Unfortunately the photos do not do it justice and I highly recommend seeing a video on YouTube if one exists or the video I took to really appreciate what a piece of art it really is in person. And finally, we conclude with MB&F. Love or hate them, MB&F have created a design language all their own and with their recent success with their collaboration with Moser and their LM101, I only see them going up in popularity. Max was super cool, very welcoming, and amazingly gracious with his time. I would personally like to thank the staff for their time and a special thanks to Max for taking time out of your busy day as well as doing the same on Thursday so we could have drinks together and discuss further. Hope to do it again soon and don't blame me if I harass you a bit on WhatsApp or elsewhere, just kidding. πŸ˜‰ All I can say is, thanks for sharing a few secret projects with me and be sure that my lips are sealed 😁🀞 I will do my best to acquire a few pieces that we discussed as well as my dream piece πŸ˜‰























And now the MB&F model I have wanted to see since it was announced. Most of you will know that JLC is my favorite Swiss manufacturer even though they have lost their way recently. Well, if you put Eric Coudray (inventor and developer of the Gyrotourbillon for JLC), Kari Voutilainen, and Max Busser together, this crazy machine is what you get. All I can say is in person it does not disappoint. BY FAR my favorite piece from everything I saw on Wednesday. I highly highly highly recommend seeing the videos for this watch that already exist on YouTube. I also took a few of my own and could share them with those interested. Repeat after me, "T h u n d e r d o m e" πŸ˜πŸ€£πŸ˜‚































I would love to show some photos of some of the amazing Chopard watches we saw Thursday morning but they are under embargo. One thing I can say, and this is especially for Nicolas (our resident counselor), I can honestly say I think I have heard the cleanest and best sounding minute repeater EVER. I have been fortunate to have handled, heard, and seen hundreds of minute repeaters over the years. The one we saw at Chopard was the ABSOLUTE BEST sounding repeater in terms of clarity, pitch, tone, and volume (amplitude). We can even go so far as to say that it was CRYSTAL clear since the gong they use is literally made made crystal itself. In fact, the gong is 1 piece of crystal formed with a lower half in the shape of a crystal gong. It is truly impressive. I was told that it cost Chopard over 4.000 euros just to fabricate this crystal. Have a look at this thing. Just WOW πŸ˜³πŸ˜‰



If you made it this far, I hope you all enjoyed the photos and journey. I know I did when taking them and getting the chance to speak with the people behind these works of art. The Independent scene is growing and for good reason. I hope it continues as they are innovators and push boundaries that the larger houses cannot or will not due to business constraints. I would like to thank my friend Yohann for the invite as well as all the Independents that hosted us. Also would like to thank the Hotel Beau Rivage in Geneva that hosted me during my stay. I would highly recommend them to anyone staying in Geneva. If anyone has any questions or comments, please list them below and I will do my best to respond in a timely manner πŸ˜πŸ‘πŸ™

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The Discussion
MD
mdg
Aug 28, 2020

...the FB watches are sublime. I give them a pass on thickness because of the type of movement and the astonishing level of finishing. Not usually Moser guy but I kind of like the first one with the engraved bezel...the size looks perfect and the 'old school' logotype finally matches the watch.

MD
mdg
Aug 28, 2020

...in the days before high-speed internet, this would have been described as a modem-burner : )

CP
Cpt Scarlet
Aug 28, 2020

Unfortunately the dreaded Covid stopped me going. Thanks for sharing this epic with us !

TH
Thomas_3
Aug 28, 2020

but my eyes started to melt and run down my cheeks.

TY
Tyo
Aug 28, 2020

I think, you sould have done different posts by brands. Purists may have a lot to say about your stunning reportage. I like the Debethune word time. How does it work? Where did you upload the video of the MB&F?

PO
PoyFR
Aug 28, 2020

This is a lot to understand and study but for now it is a feast for my eyes and my imaginations Thanks a bunch for you generous time, post and photos.

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