Girard-Perregaux 9050 Ultra-Slim Dress Watch Vintage
Vintage

Girard-Perregaux 9050 Ultra-Slim Dress Watch Vintage

By DonRestarone · May 19, 2025 · 19 replies
DonRestarone
WPS member · Girard Perregaux forum
19 replies3291 views10 photos
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DonRestarone's rediscovery of the Girard-Perregaux Ref. 9050 offers a compelling look at a truly elusive piece of 1990s high horology. This article delves into why this ultra-slim dress watch, featuring the esteemed GP Calibre 3000, remains a significant find for collectors seeking depth in watchmaking with timeless design. DonRestarone's detailed account and subsequent community discussion illuminate the historical context and technical prowess of this understated reference.

The last time the forum saw a 9050 was almost a decade ago. So I'm declaring it an elusive piece and sharing my own 9050. It rekindled my love for watches after a multi-year-long hiatus. This is the type of watch for the long time collector who's looking to explore the depths of high watchmaking with a wearable and timeless design. 

Facts; 


  • GP calibre 3000 is an automatic movement that is 2.98mm thick and used in the Vacheron Overseas and Cartier Pasha. Finished with Geneva stripes, perlage, and chamfered edges 
  • Case thickness is 7.5mm 
  • 35mm diameter 
  • 18K yellow gold and weighs approximately 40 grams


What I find interesting 

  • multi step dial, there is a recessed subdial for seconds and a subtle perimeter mark running inside of the Roman numerals 
  • Applied Roman numerals that are highly detailed with rounded extremities 
  • Heat Blued seconds hand 
  • "black polished" dauphine hands 
  • Seconds subdial at 9 o clock is uncommon and leads to an interesting 3rd person view of the watch on the wrist (looks like a monopusher chronograph)  - likely to fly under most enthusiasts radar
  • Caseback is entirely flat, much more comfortable than a standard bubble back automatic 
  • Domed sapphire crystal 
  • Hand engraved serial number 
  • Early application of an exhibition caseback (90's) 
  • Ceramic ball bearing based unidirectional winding system sounds and feels marvelous, with a smooth and satisfying ratcheting sound. 



red & gold combo














highly decorated cal 3000 movement




barrel shaped case




signed crown




blued hands light play


Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
DO
DonRestarone
May 19, 2025

Thank you! Curious about production numbers of GP and decoding serial numbers. I've requested an extract from the archives. Lets see what that turns up!

QU
quattro
May 19, 2025

and thank you for sharing this delightful model and example from GP! That’s quite an entrance you’re making here! Best, Emmanuel

DO
DonRestarone
May 19, 2025

thank you for the warm welcome!

AQ
Aquaracer1
May 19, 2025

Cool GP not often seen! Which looks to be a Neo Vintage example to me. Singapore Marc is our resident GP expert, surely he’ll reply to this thread if he sees it. Enjoy!

KM
KMII
May 20, 2025

And a lovely watch for sure! Not one that has been written about recently 😊

TH
this_hobby_of_hours
May 20, 2025

This is what we wanna see more of. I’ll read more later but just wanted to say lovely 9050 first. 🫶🏼

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