As you know, the Laureato collection has become the key pillar of the Girard-Perregaux catalogue. When it was released at the beginning of the year, I thought that we were seeing all the Laureato novelties during the SIHH. I was wrong since during the next months several other models like the Laurea
As you know, the Laureato collection has become the key pillar of the Girard-Perregaux catalogue. When it was released at the beginning of the year, I thought that we were seeing all the Laureato novelties during the SIHH. I was wrong since during the next months several other models like the Laureato Skeleton were added. And it is not over! Three new models have just been released. Frankly speaking, I wonder if it is not too fast. Anyway, I can't blame Girard-Perregaux, the brand is on a positive trend and they want to take advantage of the current context. The question I have is to know if other Laureato models will come during the SIHH 2018!
Coming back to what is currently happening, the first of these three novelties I had the chance to wear in one week is the simplest one: the Laureato 42mm Ceramic.
It is for me a winner. OK, let's speak clearly: I don't think that Ceramic is the best material for a watch case. Simply because that it can break if the watch falls. The case should protect the movement and I am not sure that it would be able to offer such protection if something wrong happens. Anyway, the specific Laureato design, very contemporary and very 70s at the same time works very well with this material. The watch features a nice and bright black atmosphere and despite the very dark colour, it remains luminous. Moreover, the colour reduces the feeling of size and so the Laureato 42mm appears to be elegant and original at the same time. It is not an "all black" nor "phamtom" piece and its legibility is excellent that to the high contrast between the hands and the dial background.
Another good news is that the clou de Paris pattern remains very visible.
A great work from Girard-Perregaux highlighted by the quality of the case and bracelet finishes.
The second Laureato I wore during the week is another Ceramic one. But this time, it is the Laureato Skeleton.
Sorry to kill the suspens but this one is my fav of the collection. Well, to be more precise, the Laureato Skeleton was already my fav piece of the collection and I do believe that this new version takes fully advantage of the Ceramic context. I can see two main reasons:
- first of all because the very contemporary approach of the skeletonized movement matches the Ceramic rendering.
- and because the black details make the skeleton pattern even more subtle and in a way, fascinating.
The size of this watch is still 42mm and I like the way the moving parts of the movement are highlighted. Even the mainspring offers a quite nice show... what is not always the case!
I like this watch a lot and it is maybe due to the top position of the regulating organ.
A successfull piece.
The last novelty is the most spectacular one. It features a tourbillon. So we may think that it is a skeletonized version of the Laureato Tourbillon. It is not because this one uses the movement 9520 while the Laureato Tourbillon uses the 9510 one. The 9520 is a smaller movement with a different architecture (the position of the tourbillon is on the top of the dial) and more importantly, it offers a flying tourbillon!
Thanks to this movement, Girard-Perregaux manages to house a tourbillon in a 42mm case while the Laureato Tourbillon uses a 45mm one. To be honest, I'm not a fan of the Laureato Tourbillon. I found this watch too big and the oversized tourbillon bridge killed the refined style of the Laureato collection. The Laureato Flying Tourbillon Skeleton is much better: smaller, more elegant and more fun! Here again, I like the tourbillon location on top of the dial and the pattern of the skeletonized movement. I don't have any doubt anymore: if you look for a tourbillon piece in the Laureato collection, take this one.
Girard-Perregaux unveiled 3 very interesting Laureato pieces during these last weeks. More daring, more original, they put under the spotlights the skills and the potential of the Manufacture. I was seduced by all of them but Girard-Perregaux shall pay attention to not release too many pieces during a single year. For example, what would be the explanation toward a collector who has just bought the Laureato Tourbillon 45mm and who realizes that he would have preferred to buy the Laureato Flying Tourbillon 42mm? Not easy to be convincing! It is the reason why it is very important to keep a reasonable rhythm of release of novelties. Please Girard-Perregaux, you have to slow down now.
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