The Le Corbusier trilogy is much more than a simple tribute to the famous architect. Through these 3 watches created in association with the Fondation Le Corbusier to celebrate the 125th anniversary of his birth, Girard-Perregaux has wished to highlight the crucial stages of his career by adapting a creative process similar to that of the artist in order to promote the work of craftsmen of the Manufacture. The Le Corbusier trilogy is a point of meeting of two worlds, those of architecture and watchmaking, whose principles remind us that even the simplest, the most basic materials, contribute to the creation of an artpiece when they are fashioned and used with talent and inspiration.
Designing such trilogy was not an easy task because it was needed to avoid that one of the two worlds should take precedence over the other. A subtle alchemy was required and Girard-Perregaux has been able to find the good "dosage" in order that the trilogy watches embody the spirit of le Corbusier without losing the characteristic features of the production of the Manufacture... and vice versa.
Vintage 45 La Chaux-de-Fonds:In this context, the use of the same case is an excellent idea (only its material is changing). The case sets the stage on which the craftsmen express their skills and it was important to have a common landmark in order to properly perceive and feel the aesthetic differences caused by the dials artistic techniques.
Choice was made to use the 1945 Vintage rectangular, almost square (36.2 x 35, 25 mm) case. This is a good choice for several reasons. First of all, its shape makes us think about a picture frame so that when the three watches are side by side, we have the impression to visit a small exhibition. The simplicity of this shape is more consistent with the spirit of the "purism" which took place during the first part of Le Corbusier's carreer and whose aim was to embody a return to more organized structures. Then its size is harmonious. Neither too large nor too small, it enhances the dials unless the latter become too large which would have removed the refinement and the subtlety of the artistic approach. Finally, the case and glass curves bring a certain dynamism and accentuate the artistic dimension by the slight decline of the dial that they create.
Vintage 1945 Paris:The movement is common to the three watches. It is not surprisingly the GP3300 which has a 4 Hz frequency and a 46 hours power reserve. It is a movement that I appreciate a lot thanks to its high winding efficiency. It is visible in each watch through a sapphire located on the caseback. It is very classically presented, finished in a very sober way. The reference of the watch is indicated on the Sapphire: 125th anniversary and the specific city. I would have preferred to find such reference on the case or even possibly on a solid and engraved caseback.
The GP3300 movement:The three stages of Le Corbusier carreer which are the sources of inspiration of the trilogy wzere clearly marked by the environment of their times, the artistic trends in which he was involved and by arts and crafts that he practiced. Multifaceted artist, Le Corbusier is mainly known as an architect as his most famous works remain the housing units created thanks to the Modulor process and principle. This principle allowed, including through the use of the golden ratio, determine the ideal dimensions of the living space in order to ensure maximum comfort to its occupants. It is also interesting to note that the golden ratio is regularly used in watchmaking, always in the search for harmonious proportions... like architecture.
Vintage 1945 Marseille:However, it would be an error to reduce Le Corbusier to this single dimension. The trilogy, opportunely gives keys to understand his career and his artistic evolution.
The first watch, the Vintage 45 La Chaux-de-Fonds, reminds us of his training period as engraver and sculptor at the Art School of his hometown. The inlaid mother-of-Pearl Dial, which requires 7 days of work, reproduces a pattern that had been designed and engraved on a pocket watch case by le Corbusier during his training period. So, it makes sense to find it on a dial a century later!
The pattern represents a bee which is a very dear theme to La Chaux-de-Fonds. In fact, the coat of arms of the city features a beehive symbolizing its industrial vocation. The integrity of the 5 color codes of the original pattern was an extremely difficult challenge for the craftsmen of the Manufacture. But such effort was rewarded. The dial of the Vintage 45 La Chaux-de-Fonds surprises with its beauty, by the shades of light that it creates, by its depth and subtlety. Without a doubt, this watch is the
most refined of the three and for me the most seductive. The Pink Gold case marries perfectly with the dial and brings an extra touch of warmth. Once put on the wrist, the elegance of this watch and the numerous details of the dial give it an undeniable charm.
The second watch plays another tune and causes a clear aesthetic break with the previous one. The engraved metal dial is an interpretation of the Modulor. Perfectly executed and at the same time very discreet, it seems to fade into the watch for two reasons: the low contrast with the steel case and of course the exuberance of the cowhide strap. In fact, the Vintage 45 Paris is inspired by a 1928 rocking chair. Due to its very special bracelet, it is the
most original of the trilogy and the most difficult to wear on a daily basis. Of course, the bracelet could be changed but this would break the consistency of the watch and the reminder of the interaction between the Modulor system and the design of decorative arts objects sought by Le Corbusier. As such, the Vintage 45 Paris should be worn as it is.
The third watch is
the most surprising even if paradoxically, the theme that inspired it, the CitΓ© Radieuse, is perhaps the best-known Corbusier work. For our deepest pleasure, Girard-Perregaux has not hesitated to make a concrete dial!
The dial requires 3 days of work to be poured, dried and hand finished. It has an unusual grey/green color, a strange beauty: it is irregular, full of rough edges and it seems sometimes to even overflow... these properties at the end make it so unique, so enigmatic. The Vintage 45 Marseille may have a very simple style at first glance (steel case, black crocodile leather strap) but turns out to be a watch with a strong character reinforced by the engraved Modulor in the concrete.
Each of these three watches, despite the same case, has very clearly its own style. The success of the trilogy is this balanced mix between common background and opposition of style, artistic and horological interests. The trilogy was presented during the last quarter of 2012 in a limited series of 5 sets of 3 watches. I perfectly understand the pleasure that the owner of a set can feel: by opening and gazing its contents, he scans several decades of the career of one of the major artists of the 20th century.
I would like to thank the Girard-Perregaux France team for its warm welcome in the Salon Belles Montres 2012.
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