Review
blomman Mr Blue's review of the Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 Large Date, Moon-Phases, Reference 25882-11-223-BB6B, offers a rare glimpse into a groundbreaking timepiece. This article highlights the watch's distinctive sapphire dial, a first for the Vintage 1945 collection, and synthesizes community reactions to its innovative design. His firsthand experience with the watchmakers provides unique context, making this a valuable resource for enthusiasts interested in GP's horological advancements and Art Deco aesthetics.
Friends,
As you could read in the press release; This is the first time ever that Girard-Perregaux releases a Vintage 1945 with sapphire dial! Reference: 25882-11-223-BB6B
I had the pleasure to be able to handle this watch and to see the watchmakers while they were working on this watch!
The sapphire dial has a “smoked” tone which makes good contrast against the dauphine hands and applied indexes, but still transparent enough to reveal the movement underneath in details.
What is so special with sapphire dial?
Well, we are used to see skeletonized watches where as much as possible of the material is removed, we are used to see watches with big holes in the dial to revel some parts of the movement, like Tourbillons….
But a complete transparent dial, that is not often seen.
The advantage of a sapphire dial versus skeleton or open dials is just the fact I mentioned, the contrast which allows you to easily read the time. On the other two dial types, time is often quite hard to read.
And when you consider that the Vintage 1945 dial is doomed, then it gets even more impressive!
In these shots I snapped at the Manufacture you see how doomed the dial really is.
In fact the dial is almost as doomed as the crystal protecting the dial.
To see the movement through the dial is a real treat! All the gears, disks, screws, levers and wheels… To see how they “dance” in steady rhythm, conducted by the balance wheel on the back which beats in steady pace of 4 Hz. From there see how the force fans out to all the different components setting each in motion according to its function…
Poetry in motion!
The Large Date at twelve comes to life and shows its two disk construction. What surprises many is that the left number is conducted by the right disk and vice versa. When the date changes… Zap! Less than 5 milliseconds!
The sub second at six encircles the Moon-Phases. Another detail that is revealed by the sapphire dial is that there are two Moon-Phases on the disk and that it takes the moon-Phases disk two “Moons” to complete a full revolution.
Actually the only part where you are able to see the base plate properly is on the lower left area of the dial. You see a hint of Geneva bar pattern in the lower left corner of this shot.
Here we have the movement mounted in its case, soon ready to shipped out.
It was a great pleasure to be able to visit the watchmakers and see them in “action”!
To see all the different steps needed to create something beautiful!
But I guess you are more interested in the final watch!
Here it is:
Good visibility to read time.
Due to the doomed dial, different angles, different light…
Different parts get more visible in different angles.
The dial also shows how well the movement is fitted to case. The movement really fills the case and don’t leave a big empty room on the sides.
The open case back do not reveal the full rotor, but I guess that would have been quite complicated to achieve due to the case shape.
The case back is also curved both length-wise and width-wise.
I will not discuss the case size here; the sapphire dial version is 36.10 x 35.25 mm while the Blue version we saw earlier this year is 36.20 x 35.25 mm, so basically the same size…
But I would like to state my personal impression of this watch: GP hit a home run with this one!
Beautiful, romantic Art Deco design but in the same time a bit cold and technical. As I already mentioned, my eyes start to get used to the XXL size… And my wrist LOVE it!
Actually, I think the sapphire dial makes the watch look a bit smaller than it really is.
I am starting to wonder if this isn’t my favorite version of the Vintage 1945 XXL!
Best
Blomman
This message has been edited by blomman on 2014-11-24 23:53:58The Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 reference 25882 is a notable example within the Vintage 1945 collection, distinguished by its rectangular case design and a dial color that offers a distinct aesthetic compared to more common dial presentations. This reference typically features a small seconds sub-dial, contributing to its balanced and classic dress watch appeal. It represents a contemporary interpretation of historical Girard-Perregaux designs from the mid-20th century, particularly those influenced by Art Deco sensibilities. The model is positioned as a refined option for collectors seeking a dress watch with a strong vintage character.
This specific reference is housed in a stainless steel case, reflecting a practical yet sophisticated material choice for a dress watch. The case dimensions are 36mm by 37mm, providing a substantial presence on the wrist while maintaining wearability. It is equipped with an automatic movement, ensuring convenience for daily wear. The watch features a sapphire crystal, known for its scratch resistance, protecting the dial. The movement offers a power reserve of approximately 46 hours.
The Vintage 1945 collection, and this reference in particular, appeals to collectors who appreciate historical design cues reinterpreted with modern manufacturing standards. Its blue dial variant offers an alternative to traditional silver or black dials, making it a distinctive choice for those seeking a dress watch with a subtle pop of color. The small seconds complication adds a traditional touch, aligning with the watch's overall vintage inspiration and contributing to its enduring appeal within the Girard-Perregaux catalog.
What a dial! What an opus! I love almost all, in this Watch, and I am seriously considering it. Even the case size, which I most often find too big, is curiously not disturbing me, on this one, at the difference of the Blue sister. The olny little thing is that I would have preferred a solid case back, but nothing which would make me stay far away from this one. In the " affordable " watches, my favourite, the second being the Sea Hawk Blue Cobalt. Here are the pictures I could take earlier this
but I like this model more than the rest! It is nice in rose gold as well.... Bill
but it looks like we'll have to repeat our mantra about colour of love ;) Thank you for another great post Yours D
Each photo, you discover something new about this watch! :) Best Blomman
I hope to take some fresh photos soon! :) Best Blomman
But I think there is room for smoke colored sapphire as well, my friend! ;) Damn, before this is over we need to build a collection of only Vintage 1945 XXL.... ;) Best Blomman
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