Independents
Mike H's original post celebrates the strong showing of independent watchmakers at the 2020 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de GenĂšve (GPHG), particularly highlighting Kari Voutilainen's win for the Men's Watch Prize. This discussion provides valuable context for understanding the significance of these awards within the independent watchmaking community. Mike H focuses on the independent segment, inviting the community to explore the craftsmanship and innovation recognized by the GPHG.
I am particularly happy to see that there
is a big proportion of Indies in the winners, and most of them are well known
by us here. Because we are in the Indies Forum here, we'll concentrate on this
segment and leave others announce the other winners even if we are glad
to congratulate all winners with no exception of course 
.
Let us start with a very coveted prize, the "Men's Watch Prize" won this year by our dear friend Kari Voutilainen with his Twenty-8 SC (for Seconde Centrale) with case in titanium. The two tone dial is made in house, it is made from silver and engine turned by hand.
The âChronometry Watch Prizeâ has been awarded to Ferdinand Berthoud for their FB 2RE.2
This new timepiece reinterprets the architecture and design of this Marine Clock. Fitted along its middle with a large panoramic window, the round 18-carat gold case frames a grand feu enamel dial with a complex two-tiered construction.
Beneath this traditional, uncluttered display lies an exceptional mechanism: the new ChronomĂštre FB 2RE combines the emblematic fusee-and-chain transmission with a one-second remontoir dâĂ©galitĂ© mechanism.
The â Mechanical Exception Watch Prize â was attributed to Bovet 1822 for their Recital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two
This incredible watch is a Double-face flying tourbillon, world time with indexable second-time zone, moon phase, and five daysâ power reserve.
With this piece, the House of Bovet is giving decorative arts, chronometry, mechanical ingenuity, and innovation their greatest acclaim since their creation in 1822.
As for the âChronograph Watch Prizeâ H. Moser & Cie managed to grab it with the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic.
It is a form watch, with a steel cushion case 42.3 mm in diameter. With dynamic water resistance to 12 ATM, the chronograph function of the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic can be used underwater. Its off-centre crown, adorned with an "M", balances the two chronograph push-buttons set at 10 and 2 o'clock. Designed as a truly sculptural piece, this case boasts harmonious proportions and beautiful aerodynamics. It is topped by a subtly domed Glassbox type sapphire crystal, echoed by the see-through case back.
The âInnovation Prizeâ has been awarded to Parmiginai Fleurier. It is a world premiere with the very first Hijri Perpetual Calendar wristwatch. The new calendar is based on technology Parmigiani Fleurier developed for an exclusive table clock launched in 2011 and inspired by the restoration of a pocket watch featuring an Arabic calendar. For the first time in Parmigiani Fleurierâs history, the Hijri Perpetual Calendar complication is made available in a wristwatch.
But one was not enough, H. Moser & Cie managed to grab a second prize with the "Audacity Prize 2020" with their Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon.
For this watch, H. Moser & Cie. has adopted features from MB&F machines, such as the concept of three-dimensional movements, a strong element of the Geneva Maisonâs identity, protected by a sapphire dome. H. Moser & Cie. is emphasizing a one-minute flying tourbillon that rises above the main dial through a ventricular opening appearing at 12 oâclock. Benefiting from the expertise of its sister company Precision Engineering AG, H. Moser & Cie. has equipped its tourbillon with a cylindrical balance spring.
This watch is actually the result of the friendship between these two gifted watchmakers who decided they wanted to have their own project.
For their dead beat second, the Gafner system was the inspiration. It requires the best craftsmanship to adjust while offering great room for creativity. The anchor of second is the most complex component to manufacture in the system. Adjusted by hand to the hundredth of a millimeter, it is only the watchmakerâs exceptional skill that makes the difference between the movement working or not.
In spite of the special situation, this 2020 GPHG was a great success and has kept all its promises.
It has honoured great watchmakers and masterpieces, congratulations to all of them.
De Bethune DB25 Reference DB25
The DB25 represents De Bethune's entry in the 44.5mm manual-wind category, distinguished by its silver dial configuration within the DB25 series. This reference launched in 2006 and continues the brand's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie complications.
The 44.5mm case is crafted from 18k white gold with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 30 meters. The manual-winding caliber DB2105 movement provides a substantial 120-hour power reserve. The watch features a leather strap attachment.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking De Bethune's technical approach to timekeeping in a precious metal case. The extended power reserve and manual-wind operation position it for enthusiasts who appreciate hands-on interaction with their timepieces. The 44.5mm sizing places it in contemporary proportions within the independent watchmaking segment.
For some of them it's clearly possible to detect the quality of the hand work from the pictures! ;-) If I had to choose a couple of favorites, though comparisons are even harder than usual here, I'd go for the GF and the Bovet...but the Petermann/Bedat is also a beautiful surprise ;-) Cheers.
Fortunately not one moves me đ
Bit disappointed that some other amazing candidates (indies) didnât won any price but thats live .
My choice. The 20 8sc says why. Color, the watchmaker, the craft, design. Voutilainen as an independent is my nr one. F.P. made superb peaces, but Voutilainen gives me the sporty twist a F.P. not have. When i look at Mosers Endeavor, it is an art statement that breaks all boundaries. But what a watch made a watch in my point of view is wearing it. Do you shall wear the Endeavor with the dome glass so bulky? For the people who wearing a nice suit, the Endeavor will be a problem with the left slee
But there are some great looking watches here.
I had a chance to see all of these watches in Geneva this past summer during Geneva Watch Days, except the Parmigiani and Peterman Bedat. All I can say is that each and every one was stunning in their own way but the standouts for me would be the GF Handmade for an astonishing amount of handwork and true artisanal craftsmanship, the Ferdinand Berthoud FE2 for its beauty as well as the contrast between the simple looking enamel dial and the masterpiece of a movement showing the fusée and chain wi
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