Grand Seiko SBGH001 vs. Rolex Explorer II 216570

Iim7v7im7 presents a compelling comparison between the Grand Seiko SBGH001 and the Rolex Explorer II 216570, inviting the community to weigh in on these two distinct yet similarly positioned watches. This 2013 discussion highlights the nuances collectors consider when choosing between a high-frequency Japanese mechanical movement and a robust Swiss GMT, both representing the pinnacle of their respective brands' engineering at the time.

Hi,

I wanted to share with the forum two watches that I have been pondering of late to add to my collection.

Brand: Grand Seiko

Model: Mechanical Caliber 9S Series

Reference: SGBH001

Size: 40.0 mm x 13.0 mm

Water Resistance: 100 meters

Movement: Grand Seiko Caliber 9S85 

Company: Rolex

Model: Explorer II

Reference: 215670WSO

Size: 42.0 mm x 12.4 mm

Water Resistance: 100 meters

Movement: Rolex Calibre 3187

The watches are similar in the following ways:

-       Stainless Steel Cases

-       White Dials

-       Date Function

-       New Brands to my Collection

-       Each Represents the Latest Technology in Their Respective Movements

-       Similar Water Resistance

-       Similarly Priced

The watches are different in the following ways:

-       Made in Switzerland vs. Made in Japan

-       The Rolex has a GMT Function and the Grand Seiko Does Not

-       The Rolex has Dial Luminosity and the Grand Seiko Does Not

-       The Rolex is “Sportier” than the Grand Seiko

-       The Rolex is Ubiquitous and the Grand Seiko is Esoteric

-       The Grand Seiko has a Display Case Back and the Rolex Does Not

-       The Rolex has a “Cyclops” and the Grand Seiko Does Not

Among my sport watches, I currently have a Blancpain Leman Ultra Slim Grand Date (Black Dial), IWC Aquatimer 2000 (White Dial), IWC Spitfire Chronograph (Ardoise Dial) and a Panerai Luminor Marina PAM00111 (Black Dial). I was thinking to add another light dialed option.  I did look at a number of GS GMT options in their mechanical series as well as their spring drive series; but none of those models really “spoke” to me.  But I did find the simple hi-beat models attractive. I also did go and try on a Rolex GMT Master II at my local AD as well, but the shininess of the watch and its similarity to the Submariner were a turn-off.

So here I am pondering these two watches.  There is no “right” answer in that they are both fine watches; each with their own distinct attributes. Each would bring something new to my collection.

Explorer II

-       First Rolex

-       True GMT Function

SGBH001 

-       First Grand Seiko

-       First Hi-Beat Movement

The practicality of the GMT function of the Rolex is indeed attractive because I do travel for business.  I like that the Explorer II does not have that immediate “I am a Rolex” design language to the non-watch informed.  I do however have to admit that every time I visit a Rolex AD, I am amazed at how the associate’s detail a watch (using the term losely) and their lack of understanding of what they are selling.  It always turns me off and reminds me of the power of the “brand” and the layperson societal status associated with it.  It has always repelled me.  Sorry, I said it. Objectively, I can see through this.  It is an excellent, high-production watch.

I have not seen the GS in the “steel” yet, but I believe them to be of superior craftsmanship. I do like the stealth aspect to the brand.  The watches pass under the radar to the non-WIS population. The hi-beat caliber is very interesting and so is the tremendous time keeping performance (how it will wear is a small concern). The simple, and oh-so Japanese 1960s Seiko design language of the dial, hands and case is quite attractive to me as well. I also really appreciate the display case back to satisfy my “Faszination de Mechanik”.

So there you have it.  What say you about each of these watches?  Any thoughts or other considerations are appreciated as always,

Bob