Independents
Jester shares his profound appreciation for the H. Moser & Cie Perpetual 1, detailing his decade-long journey from initial fascination to the acquisition of a highly personalized piece. His narrative underscores the allure of minimalist perpetual calendars and the unique experience of collaborating with an independent manufacture.
Yet it's definitely one of the most treasured pieces among my perpetual calendar watches...
Stepping back almost a decade ago, when Moser announced the perpetual 1, I was captivated at first sight. The dial was clean, with almost NO excess information.
It was EXACTLY what I was searching for: Largely bored w/ the typical layout of perpetual calendar pieces with multiple sub dials indicating day of the week, date, month, leap years etc etc. I was looking for a simpler layout: a dial that does NOT require the owner to look over different hands on sub dials, then the indices to make out the correct information. I wanted something that gives me all those information at a glance.
My search did end up w/ a few window perpetual calendar pieces. One of them even offers the instantaneous jump of day/date/month, somewhat similar to the Perpetual 1. But none came as minimalist as the perpetual 1. So the Moser Perpetual 1 quickly went onto my wish list.
Then came the LONG waiting period. As you may know, being a rather small manufacturer, Moser did suffer a rather significant supply chain problem. During a period while the watch industry was booming at a fast pace, it was rather challenging to work w/ various suppliers given the relatively small quantity. As such, the release of perpetual 1 suffers a huge delay and so was my acquisition.
The wait was so unbearable that I actually went out and bought another Moser to tie me over and that's when I discovered the double hairspring escapement! I was again mesmerized by the technical aspect of this innovation that I just HAD to have one! And to top it off, it came w/ the fume dial which was absolutely stunning
Soon I started fantasizing about the marriage of two watches, the double hairspring escapement fitted to the 7 day PR movement of the Perpetual 1 on a fume dial! My chance came during Sep 2010: I was attending a cocktail party hosted by Moser. I had some private time w/ the head of sales and voiced out my idea of my dream watch. I guess my enthusiasm left a lasting impression that Moser did decide to go ahead w/ this idea. So in Basel fair of 2011 the Perpetual Double Hairspring w/ fume dial was announced.
However, the production of the piece continued to remain extremely low and I started having some idea about the dial colour. Having already owned the grey fume dial on Mayu, I started dreaming about a blue fume dial on a Perpetual Double Hairspring. My SECOND chance came again about 18 months ago during a dinner w/ the owner of Moser and I became very serious about pursuing my 'dream' piece. The gents at Moser was very understanding & accommodating so my dream piece was finally going ahead...
If you're with me so far, you can probably guess that this is BY NO MEAN a boring watch for me. I love the technical aspect of the movement, fused w/ the classical design & layout, not to mention my favourite colour fume dial.
So allow me to indulge you w/ a few pictures?
De Bethune DB25 Reference DB25
The DB25 represents De Bethune's entry in the 44.5mm manual-wind category, distinguished by its silver dial configuration within the DB25 series. This reference launched in 2006 and continues the brand's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie complications.
The 44.5mm case is crafted from 18k white gold with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 30 meters. The manual-winding caliber DB2105 movement provides a substantial 120-hour power reserve. The watch features a leather strap attachment.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking De Bethune's technical approach to timekeeping in a precious metal case. The extended power reserve and manual-wind operation position it for enthusiasts who appreciate hands-on interaction with their timepieces. The 44.5mm sizing places it in contemporary proportions within the independent watchmaking segment.
The model is a wonderful exercise in restraint, and that particular version you have is extremely handsome - congrats!
I share your love for the extremely clean dial and believe the perpetual 1 is THE perpetual calendar to go for. Interesting to read that you had some substantial inputs into their evolvement of the product range . I had the chance to visit H. Moser in 2011 and understand some of the challenges they have as a small and independent manufacture. This is a wonderful piece -enjoy it in good health ! Best Stefan
Moser pulls it off like no other. I absolutely love the softness of these dials and the overall design of these pieces.
Thanks for your post! “Largely bored w/ the typical layout of perpetual calendar pieces with multiple sub dials indicating day of the week, date, month, leap years etc etc. I was looking for a simpler layout” That is exactly why I have NOT bought a perpetual calendar so far. I will look more seriously at this one. Best
I like minimalistic look and this does it for me. I actually like the Black Edition of this watch but I am not sure how resistant that DLC coating is. Thank you for sharing this with us. One of the best perpetual calendars out there.
the one like yours would be perfect! I can't even dream of any opportunities of getting involved in the development of my own dream watch. Oh! How I envy you.
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