
AnthonyTsai introduces the H. Moser & Cie. Moser Perpetual 1, a 2013 Baselworld release that pairs the brand's acclaimed perpetual calendar with its iconic fumé dial in a rose gold case. This article delves into the watch's understated design and ingenious calendar mechanism, emphasizing its readability and user-friendly features.
By opting to unite its masterpiece, the Moser Perpetual 1, in rose gold, with its iconic fumé dial, the house of Moser is bringing together two iconic pieces, in a marriage of absolute beauty and elegance; this new creation has secured a legendary status.
MOSER PERPETUAL 1 – NEW FOR 2013
Unlike most watches equipped with the perpetual calendar function, the understated appearance and the extreme readability of its dial ensure the Moser Perpetual 1 stands out. The H. Moser & Cie. watchmakers have achieved the feat of simplifying the extremely complex appearance of the perpetual calendar mechanism. In the three o'clock position, the date is visible through the oversized window, while the month is indicated by the small hand with an arrow, mounted on the centre of the dial. In an ingenious and inspired touch, the 12 baton appliqué hour indexes also represent the months of the year, making any other indication superfluous. The leap year cycle is displayed on the movement side, visible through the sapphire case back. The H. Moser & Cie. watchmakers have combined this complication with an off-centre small seconds at six o'clock, as well as a power reserve indicator with retrograde hand at 9 o'clock. The faceted leaf-shape hands, long and tapering, add to the elegance of the watch. The result is a highly understated piece, with perfect balance and readability.
Inside its round case, 40.8 mm in diameter and 11.05 mm thick, the Moser Perpetual 1 is equipped with the in-house manufactured hand-wound calibre HMC 341. With its double barrel providing a minimum 7-day power reserve, this high-performance durable movement is equipped with the Double Pull Crown system, which enables the date to be set with effortless ease, with no risk of altering the time setting. Furthermore, the date change at midnight or the end of the month takes place instantaneously, within a fraction of a second, jumping directly to the correct numeral.
In case of manual date settings using the crown, there is a safety mechanism protecting the sensitive parts of the movement, enabling the date to be adjusted forward or backward, even during the automatic date change, a notoriously delicate moment. This means the watch wearer need not fear damaging the movement or altering the perpetual calendar mechanism setting. This special feature distinguishes the HMC 341 movement from other calibres on the market.
In 2013, the H. Moser & Cie watchmakers are introducing the fumé dial with the rose gold version. A subtle blend of power and softness, this unexpected association enhances the Moser Perpetual 1 collection.
Technical features
MOSER PERPETUAL 1 – NEW FOR 2013
Reference
341.501-022, rose gold model, fumé dial, brown strap
Case
18-carat rose gold, three-part Diameter: 40.8 mm
Height: 11.05 mm Curved sapphire crystal
See-through sapphire crystal case back Screw-in crown adorned with an "M"
Dial
Fumé with sun pattern ground finish Appliqué indexes 18-carat rose gold hands
Small arrow-shaped centre hand
Sub-dial with seconds hand at 6 o'clock
Movement
In-house hand-wound calibre HMC 341 Diameter: 34 mm or 15 lignes Height: 5.80 mm Frequency: 18,000 vib/h 28 jewels
Power reserve: minimum 7 days
Hacking seconds
Double barrel
Moser teeth for all wheels and pinions
Interchangeable Moser escapement
Original Straumann® hairspring with stabilised Breguet overcoil
Pallet fork and escapement wheel made from gold
Movement and components hand-finished and decorated
Functions
Hour and minute
Date
Perpetual calendar
Power reserve indicator
Off-centre seconds hand
Leap year cycle indicator on movement side
Strap
Hand-stitched brown alligator 18-carat rose gold folding buckle, with engraved Moser logo
Press Release
De Bethune DB25 Reference DB25
The DB25 represents De Bethune's entry in the 44.5mm manual-wind category, distinguished by its silver dial configuration within the DB25 series. This reference launched in 2006 and continues the brand's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie complications.
The 44.5mm case is crafted from 18k white gold with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 30 meters. The manual-winding caliber DB2105 movement provides a substantial 120-hour power reserve. The watch features a leather strap attachment.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking De Bethune's technical approach to timekeeping in a precious metal case. The extended power reserve and manual-wind operation position it for enthusiasts who appreciate hands-on interaction with their timepieces. The 44.5mm sizing places it in contemporary proportions within the independent watchmaking segment.
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