Hublot: Interview with Mathias Buttet + Antikythera

KIH · 2012-11-06T08:14:38Z

Interview with Mathias Buttet, Hublot R&D Director, on his career and the Antikythera Mechanism Watch. Explore Hublot's innovation.

KIH

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KIH presents an in-depth interview with Mathias Buttet, Hublot's R&D Director, offering a rare glimpse into his unconventional journey through watchmaking. The discussion covers Buttet's early life, his extensive career at prestigious houses like Nouvelle Lemania and Vacheron Constantin, and his pivotal role in developing complex movements. The article also features the actual Antikythera Mechanism Watch, highlighting Hublot's commitment to horological innovation.

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Interview with Mathias Buttet, R&D Director of Hublot + actual Antikythera Mechanism Watch.

M. Buttet came to Asia for a few days recently and kindly stop by Tokyo. I missed him in June when he came to Tokyo last time so I had been very excited to meet him.

Before I started asking questions, Nakai-san of Hublot Japan told me that he liked Japan very much. Naturally, I asked him how many times he has been to Japan, and the answer was "this is my second time". Oh, so he liked Japan by just coming here once. He told me that he liked the foods and people here so much. There are Japanese restaurants in Europe which he liked very much, but, according to him, now he has realized that they were all not the REAL Japanese and he wanted to take a chef or two with him when he came here last time.

KIH ("PPro"): First of all, although many readers already know, how did you get to where you are today? A brief history of yours with your own words?

M. Buttet ("MB"): I entered and was educated at a Swiss devout Christian school with dormitory where we all lived. When I was six (6), I joined a fencing team which had won the competition (in junior category) many times. I was so into it and was determined to become a professional fencing player when I was a kid. I practiced long hours everyday skipping the classes. I won nine championships during the time I was in the team. BUT, I got a baby when I was fourteen (14), yes, I got my own child when I was 14 years old. And I had to leave the school and the fencing team, as I had to raise the kid. I chose to go to a watchmaking school, in which I picked the "designer course". I studied watchmaking design in daytime and worked chores at school at night time to make a living. It took me eight years to graduate because, after all, I finished not only designer course, but all courses - enough to become a "concepteur". But, I was not really interested in becoming a watchmaker to begin with. I like hand-crafting since I was little and while Switzerland has many watchmaking schools, I was more interested in "prosthesis" making. I was still interested in prosthesis after graduating the watchmaking school, but I failed the tests which were very difficult and gave up. I was then decided to word for Nouvelle Lemania, because I had a family to feed.

1. Nouvelle Lemania (1987-1994)
Lemania was/is the very famous for its chronograph movements, but Breguet and Daniel Roth asked Nouvelle Lemania to make their respectively first tourbillon wrist watch and it was my first job (in 1987). I was 23 years old then. I left Nouvelle Lemania in 1994. During my tenor at Nouvelle Lemania, I was involved in the development of various chronographs and minute repeaters.

2. Vacheron Constantin (1994-1999)
Involved in the development of tourbillon and minute repeater models. I was the Director of R&D at VC.

3. Franck Muller (2000-2004)
I was the Director of R&D. Until I joined, Franck Muller was the brand which outsourced all the complications.

4. BNB Concept (2004-2009)
There were only four guys in my garage, and in four years, it grew to have 180 employees and have all the equipment and personnel to make everything in-house. BNB Concept had contracts with 25 brands where BNB was the consultant to the brands with respect to what type of model to make (concepteur) based on the discussion with them, but not only that, BNB implemented and executed the idea it came up with - i.e. designed, developed and manufactured the models on behalf of the brands (on average 25 pieces per model - the capacity of BNB was at its peak 1000 pieces per year in 2008 by 100 highly-trained watchmakers). The only parts BNB couldn't make was the simple shape cases. As a result of this whole process which those brands trusted BNB with the new concept and new models as well as actual designing and manufacturing, BNB acquired lots of patents - and that is why Hublot acquired BNB personnel and equipment.

5. Hublot (2010 - )
Hublot had been the biggest customer for BNB, about 20% in terms of revenue, and when BNB had to stop its operation, Mr. Biver asked me to bring my staff (30 in total) and equipment. Since before BNB's bankrupt, BNB had been developing for Hublot several models including but not limited to, various tourbillon models, 10-day chronographs, minute repeaters, etc. This Hublot's minute repeater sounds 2.5 db louder than the minute repeaters by Patek, Breguet, VC (all which he developed at BNB). And this is the pocket watch I made... I call this Bullet, with the tip of the second hand being the skull with two ruby eyes - for the rappers. But these days this sells well in China.

Can make it succor ball shaped, all diamond covered, demon shaped second hand - by custom orders.

PPro: Thank you for introducing yourself in such details. Okay, then, I know that you are the Director of R&D, but what is your exact role or what is expected of you by the management?

MB: No, I am not told by Mr. Biver to do any specific thing. He told me that he would trust me anything I do. I directly talk with Mr. Biver all the time and he sometimes asks me what I am going to offer next year and that is it. That is why this job is interesting. I don't have to think about how to sell, or what to sell because Hublot has the marketing genius - Mr. Biver, and I can focus only on developing what I want to develop. I never show Mr. Biver the progress or interim report. I just show him the end result, saying "I will offer this model next year". Of course, sometimes he does not agree, but it is NOT because he doesn't like it, but because he wants to wait for the right timing in the market for the model. You may wonder whether Mr. Biver pushes me. He rarely asks me what I am doing. I don't want to tell anybody anything about what I am doing because I do not want to show them anything until I am 100% sure that it can be produced and can be put on the display box in the stores. The marketing genius will start selling it once I show him something

)

Seriously, I learn something everyday from Mr. Biver. I failed BNB and that means I didn't have "it", so I am now studying under Mr. Biver what it takes to succeed.

I make watches and watches are for people to know the time. But these days, I stopped wearing a watch. I no longer want to be chased by the time. I have become more philosophical - at the end of the day, I ask myself what I did accomplish today, or how I used the time today. I think I must control the time, not the other way around. I think this is the result of the hardship I have gone through in my life, particularly after I made Antikythera.

I am just a mere Samurai, and The Shogun is Mr. Biver. He brought me in when I was freezing outside. As long as I am needed I will work here.

PPro: Are you also responsible for the "Fusion" of the case material?

MB: Yes, my team is responsible for the new material, including the Magic Gold. It can be applied to other areas and inquiries are coming in from Auto industry, etc. I think the new material development should be paid more attention. "Using some alloy or material for the watch case for the first time" is not interesting at all. So what? Watch industry must invest more in developing new material, otherwise it will keep on using the same material for the watch for another 100 years.

PPro: Lastly, this is what I always ask. What is your own principle, as a watchmaker - what you would never do or what you would absolutely do?

MB: My strong belief is that I must be always "a kid", because kids ask questions all the time and it is very important to ask myself or others why you do this or that. What I will never do is to betray friends - if I don't betray friends, I can sleep well. And what I always try to do is to listen with open mind. It is also important not to think of only myself but also try to understand what others think or feel.

PPro: Thank you very much for your time. Please enjoy the rest of your stay and foods here.

MB: Thank you. By the way, I am very much impressed by the Japanese people's "team work" when the country faces the difficulties. The disaster of 3.11 in 2011, I was astonished by the speed of recovery and people who help and take care of each other. And economically Japan may not be doing great, but people are so calm and working together to make it better. If these things happen in the western world, it couldn't have been this quick or cooperative atmosphere. I am really applauding and respect such attitude of Japanese people.

==============================================================

Antikythera Mechanism Watch - one of four produced in my hand.
Two will go to museum and Antikythera institution. One will go to Hublot Museum (to be build). And the last one will go for the charity auction soon.
If you haven't, please read this article too -> hublot.watchprosite.com

The "U-shape" design enables the watch not to play around the wrist, even though the watch is not exactly light.

The crown is placed on the vertical position so that it wouldn't hurt your hand when you bend your wrist. Top crown is for winding, and the bottom crown is for adjusting time and such. Both are screw-in type.

Bonus amateur videos.... for tourbillon second hand move and the back side dial.

===============================================================

Special thanks to:
Mr. Mathias Buttet, Director, R&D, Hublot SA
Ms. Kitty Kano, technical interpreter
Ms. Mako Nakai, PR, Hublot Japan

Thank you!

Best,
Ken

This message has been edited by KIH on 2012-11-06 19:13:51

Key Points from the Discussion

The contributor expresses astonishment at Mathias Buttet's candidness regarding his past, particularly having a child at 14, and recognizes him as a 'concepteur' who creates the engineering, concept, and working models for new complications.
The Antikythera Mechanism Watch is described as a scientific experiment to miniaturize the mechanism, with only one piece going to auction for charity and others to research institutes or museums.
A contributor questions the aesthetic appeal of the Antikythera Mechanism Watch on the wrist, prompting a discussion about its purpose as a scientific endeavor rather than a typical wearable timepiece.
Mathias Buttet's addition to Hublot is seen as a significant advantage for the brand's R&D, suggesting a future of impressive innovations.
The Antikythera is lauded as Hublot's most impressive MP watch, representing a significant step forward in complexity compared to other pieces.
The contributor expresses appreciation for the unique and interesting pieces showcased, particularly the bullet-shaped design, which they had not encountered elsewhere.

The Discussion

foversta

Nov 6, 2012

Actually, I really think that the Antikythera is the most impressive by far MP watches. A big step ahead when compared with the others. Thanks for the post! Fx

KIH

Nov 6, 2012

... at Mr. Buttet's calm character and the high level of complication of Antikytethera Mechanism Watch. Thank you, FX! Ken

MichaelC

Nov 7, 2012

That was a terrific interview. Thanks Ken!

KIH

Nov 7, 2012

Yes, he was really charming personality and can't believe he broke his nose numerous times from fencing..... :-) Ken

Ophiuchus

Nov 7, 2012

I'm really stunned at how open and frank Mr. Buttet was in this interview, about his past and his aims. To have a child at 14! What enormous pressure. I always knew there was a class of "watchmakers" that were the all encompassing "conceptuer" I had imagined. The people who actually create the engineering, concept, and working models of new watches, especially complications. I thought that with all the classical complications floating around now someone, somewhere had to be well informed and tea

KIH

Nov 7, 2012

... He and Hublot is a bit under appreciated in certain aspects, but addition of Mathias would enormously give Hublot advantage in R&D. I would keep by both eyes on them, where they go, what they do, etc. Thanks, Ophiuchus! Ken

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Hublot: Interview with Mathias Buttet + Antikythera

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