Vintage
Dje shares his recent acquisitions of vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre watches, including a Geomatic and a triple date with tear-drop lugs, both slated for restoration. He reflects on the enduring appeal of vintage JLC pieces and sparks a community discussion about the potential for a modern reinterpretation of the iconic Geophysic. This post delves into the collector's journey of acquiring and restoring vintage timepieces, while also exploring the brand's heritage and future possibilities.
I've had the
pleasure to acquire two vintage Jaeger-leCoultre watches since the beginning of
this year.
I've not
shown much of these watches as they need some work to recover their glorious
lust.
They're
in fact leaving this Tuesday for a full refit (hopefully).
I wanted to
share with you my thoughts about these watches and what that may be missing in
my small watch collection.
Nicolas
(Amanico) made an excellent review on the Geomatic recently : jlc.watchprosite.com
So I
won't come back on this excellent watch that I've had a great
pleasure to wear on a day to day basis for a few weeks since I bought it! The
size is still perfect for my taste, even when used to wear my large
Polarises! The watch is precise and practical. It is in fact close to the
current Master Control that is inspired from this Geomatic. It adds the charm
of the past to the modernity!
The vintage
triple date with tear drop lugs is an old dream of mine. I've long tried
to own one and am glad to finally have this one. I hope to find it back in
perfect state before the end of the year (or probably next year). This case is
the nicest example of what Jaeger-LeCoultre has produced in the forties. Of
course the moon phase versions are even more appealing, but this one is not
bad!
The Geomatic
could be the best watch produced in the sixties by Jaeger-LeCoultre, and so I
would have the best of two decades. In fact the Polaris is also a watch from
the sixties so the Geomatic can't be said to be the best (but I have the
Tribute). In fact that's not my main concern! My concern is what is
between the forties and sixties. You bet?
My favourite
Jaeger-LeCoultre watch of the fifties is obviously the Geophysic. The Geophysic
is the perfect chronometric watch, the simple three hands, center seconds watch
with a dream calibre: balance spring with Breguet terminal curve, swan neck
regulator, hacking system, indirect seconds, manual wind calibre with a
traditional design from the Vallee de Joux.
If Philippe
Dufour had made the Simplicity with a central seconds hand it would have been
the perfect absolute watch for me!
The Geomatic is
the modern heir to the Geophysic: automatic, with the date. Better choices for
the modern world, but less pure in terms of chronometrical symbolism.
We all of us
and Jaeger-LeCoultre missed the 50th anniversary of the Geophysic
last year! Too bad!
Still we can do
something to revive this old lady. In fact I would be happy to own an original
Geophysic but I doubt it will ever happen. This watch is quite rare on the
market.
I can also add
that I doubt Jaeger-LeCoultre would ever re-issue a Geophysic like they did
with the Polaris. The Geophysic would be too small by modern standards, perhaps
not for us, but at least for the market, and the market is essential, of course!
Jaeger-LeCoultre
could re-issue a larger Geophysic, but in fact I also confess that I mainly
love the Geophysic for its calibre, concept and simplicity, not for its
historical design. I can do with it, but I could do without.
Another brand
offers a watch that could be a perfect modern interpretation of the original
Geophysic.
This brand is
in the family as it is Lange.
The Richard
Lange is for me the best modern interpretation of the Geophysic
Chronometre : http://alang.watchprosite.com/show-forumpost/fi-10/pi-2752116/ti-458731/s-0/
So I would not
see the point of making a watch competing with the Richard Lange in the
Jaeger-LeCoultre range. I don't see what could be done better than it is
done by the Richard Lange.
What could be
more appropriate would be in my opinion to offer a less formal watch, more
rugged, for extreme use. You see where I'm going?
The main aspect
of a "new" Geophysic would still be the calibre. Honestly
Jaeger-LeCoultre doesn't have a calibre ready in the current production
to equip such a watch.
There's
one calibre that could be adapted to become such a chronometrical work horse.
You could have
a look there: http://www.thepurists.net/Patrons/Members/wsw/jlc_at/jlc975finweb.htm
In fact the new
Grande Reverso 976 made me think about this option:
jlc.watchprosite.com
-0/
The manual wind
calibre of the new Grande Reverso could be brought back in round form, with a
more appealing bridge design. So far it would not be too complicated.
The calibre
should also adopt a balance spring with Breguet terminal curve.
Jaeger-LeCoultre has such spring on the Master Tourbillon. Why not on a simple
watch?
The main work
would be to adapt an indirect central seconds hand on this small seconds
calibre. Essential point!
When all that
is done could I ask for a nickel silver (Maillechort) version, like with the
Duometre calibre?
This could make
the winning calibre. Please no date! No date! And no automatic winding.
Then we should
choose a case to fit this calibre.
My choice would
be for a Diving GMT 44mm case, rated to at least 300m if not 1000m! It could
maybe be a bit thinner? Please!
This case
already welcomes the automatic version of the calibre 975.
The bezel could
be interchangeable, offering several options that the owner could modifiy
depending on its needs. A diving bezel like on the Diving GMT, a geographic
bezel with the cardinal points, a pulsometric scale and why not a tachymetric
scale! Other ideas?
The straps and
bracelets could be interchangeable too, with the Squadra Lady system.
I'm
certainly going to lobby for this watch.
Anybody wants
to join me?
Cheers
Dje
I would not be ruprsed if a re-edition in some form and shape of the gephysic would soon surface to make us all happy. (I personally wish that it does not come in a MC case). looking forward to see what future brings us...
First of all, huge congrats for this very nice " Doublé ". The Vintage Calendar is something I seriously have in my mind, but I have other very urgent priorities to deal with, so I will have to delay it a bit. What to say about the Geomatic I didn't already say, except that this is a piece I appreciate more and more. An extraordinary presence on the wrist for such a small watch ( 36 mm ), but a so classic, timeless and awesome design! All is here, with a lot of ...Elegance. As for the Chronometr
I would love to see this watch. Only 37-38 mm. Call me old fashioned.
I think if they could take the excellent double-barrel movement from the 8-day movements and use it in the same way Journe does in the CS, two barrels for even power, not long running time, they could get Nico's 72 hours of runtime and not have to start from scratch.... A
The geophysic was originally designed for scientists, engineers, technicians. If this iconic watch comes back in the JLC collection, I would expect to see a "technical" watch with some of the latest enhancements successfully tested on the Extreme Lab, such as the use of the Easium carbonitride instead of the traditional jewels or the use of a silicon escape-wheel. The case would be classical for the size (38mm is perfect) but why not in a modern material (titanium?) The dial would be painted in
you're basic notion of emphasizing the original elements of the Geophyisic coincides with mine. And I also agree that 38mm would be the perfect compromise. And while Nicolas had many valuable things to say, "Add a big see through case back." is one with which I would disagree. Much like the contemporary IWC Ingenieur, I do not like the idea of gutting one of the essential elements of the original for aesthetic purposes. Regards, Tony C.
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