Jaeger-LeCoultre Grey Dials: The New Black?

amanico · 2019-10-01T02:13:47Z

Explore Jaeger-LeCoultre's grey dials: a deep dive into JLC's historical and modern use of grey, questioning if it's the new black.

amanico

WPS member · Jaeger-LeCoultre forum

16 replies4450 views20 photos

amanico explores the evolving trend of dial colors in luxury watches, posing the question: 'Is grey the new black?' He delves into Jaeger-LeCoultre's historical use of blue, red, and brown dials, then specifically highlights the brand's less common, yet significant, application of grey dials across various iconic models, from vintage Reversos to modern Master and Compressor lines.

Traditionally, we think that a watch must have a white / sliver or black dial.

We see more and more watches with salmon or blue dials, which seems to be nowadays tendance for the brands, even if some brands had blue or salmon dialed watched in their catalogues for some decades. Red dials are also used by several brands, and of course, brown / chocolate / tobacco.

For instance, Jaeger Lecoultre had blue dials in the catalogue for a very long time. In the 30's, with the Reverso, but also in the 60's and 70's with some Memovox and Chronographs, with a come back in the last 90's and early 2000's with the Master line, in platinum.

A Reverso from the early 30's:

The Red was used in some Reversos, as well as brown, in the 30's too.

We more rarely see grey dials. Well, at first thought, because we have to remember some facts...

Indeed,Grey was used by Jaeger Lecoultre, in some of their white gold watches in the late 90's / early 2000's, with the Master Ultra Thin, Master Date, Master Moon, Master Geographic, Master Perpetual and Grande Memovox, without forgetting the Master Compressor Memovox and Geographic. And the Extreme World Compressor in platinum, too!

Here the Master Ultra Thin in white gold:

The Reverso opted for a grey dial coupled to a platinum case: Reverso Reserve de Marche, Sun Moon, Septantième and Platinum Nr 2 Tourbillon.

The Reverso Sun Moon in platinum, limited to 125 pieces:

The Reverso Platinum Nr 2 Tourbillon:

Let's not forget the Reverso à Triptyque, which came with a sublime hobnail grey dial, too.

If my memory serves me well, Jaeger Lecoultre gave up Grey for a bit less than 10 years, associating this color with white or rose gold watches.

The Master Ultra Thin Moon came with a rose god and a white gold case, both with a grey dial.

The Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar opted for a white gold case / grey dial.

The Duomètre, too, housed a magnetite grey dial for the Quantième Lunaire, here with the Chronograph and the Spherotourbillon:

The Chronographe,

And the Spherotourbillon.

And let's not forget that the Reverso, too, received a grey dial, which is also made in enamel and guilloché, one of the three Tribute to Holder, made in 2018.

And the Reverso Tribute Duoface Rose Gold Fagliano 100 pieces issued in 2018, too.

So, from 2016 to 2018, we had a new wave of grey dials, at Jaeger Lecoultre...

A new trend?

Best.

Nicolas

Key Points from the Discussion

The car industry's adoption of 'cement grey' has influenced the watch industry, with brands like Omega explicitly marketing this aesthetic, though it can sometimes appear 'dusty'.
JLC's use of 'ruthenium' dials for white gold models, often in low production, is highlighted as particularly appealing. These grey dials demonstrate versatility, appearing 'chocolate' with rose gold, 'blue-ish' with white gold and a blue strap, or 'stark grey' with white gold and a black strap.
The platinum Duomètre is suggested as another Jaeger-LeCoultre model that could feature on a list of notable grey-dialed watches.
A contributor shares that the author's photos have deepened their appreciation for JLC watches, resonating on a new level after acquiring one.

The Discussion

Tim_M

Oct 1, 2019

This was a wonderful way to wake up on the US east coast. Thank you for composing and posting. The PT950 Duometre might even feature on this list. Best, Tim

everso

Oct 17, 2019

the car industry has embraced the idea of cement grey and I think the watch industry has mirrored this idea. The Omega Grey Side of The Moon really screams this idea out by the whole watch being this weird chalk-dusty grey and screaming it like it is so radical. To me it just looks dusty LOL

watchme

Nov 2, 2019

But I think JLC's use of "ruthenium" dials for white gold (after the slightly darker than the steel model in 2000 flopped) was quite nice. And they were always "low production." The beauty of gray dials is that on rose gold cases with brown straps, they can look "chocolate," as they did with the first Compressors; they can look blue-ish with white gold on a blue strap; and they can look stark gray on a white gold with black strap. -Dean

Chromatic Fugue

Nov 2, 2019

I never quite understood the attraction of JLCs until I bought one; your photos now resonate with me on a whole new level.

Ping.Timeout

Nov 3, 2019

Don’t see this very often. Thanks for sharing.

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