JLC Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar 39 Steel
Review

JLC Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar 39 Steel

By amanico · Nov 3, 2018 · 17 replies
amanico
WPS member · Jaeger-LeCoultre forum
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Amanico provides a detailed look at the 2016 Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar 39 in steel with a black dial. He explores its design nuances, particularly the controversial year window, inviting community discussion on its aesthetic impact and functional necessity.

In 2016, Jaeger released two very nice looking watches, a new one, the Reverso Tribute Duo, and a new version of an existing model, the Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar 39, in steel, with a black dial. Of course, you can also mention the Reverso Tribute to Gyrotourbillon, but it is playing in another league. 

The Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar 39 was first unveiled in 2013, in steel, white gold and rose gold, and has received, at that time, a warm welcome. 

The recipe is simple: A refined case, and an elegant dial, which in black, adds a cool factor. While the other versions are understated, the steel black dial version is immediately catching the eyes. 

Here it is: 


Now, let's have a closer look at the dial... The moon phase is superb, the dial is well balanced, made with care, with its applied indices, legible, too, especially in this black version, and complete, as you have a danger zone indicator featured by a small window above the axis of the hands, and the window for the years, too. 



Now, let's  imagine you are in charge of the Design for this watch. 

Would you do it with the window for the years, or without? 

I photoshopped the image above, and let's see the outcome:



What do you think? Better with, or without the years? 

Is it that important to have the years? 

A side by side picture will probably help: 



Ok, one thing is sure, Jaeger Lecoultre opted for a black background for the years, which is a very good decision, in order to not ruin such a beautiful dial. 

But would you go farther? 

Anyway, this version is gorgeous, in my opinion. It is not a new watch, but a very good iteration. And for those who are thinking about getting a perpetual calendar, certainly a good one! 

Looking forward to reading your comments and thoughts,

Best. 

Nicolas


Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
KE
kev09
Nov 3, 2018

...but this is a particularly attractive one. The black dial is lovely and balanced and really shows off the moon phase. All the functions are very legible but I much prefer it without the year indicator. I’m not that old yet that I can’t remember what year it is. Super looking watch. If I remember correctly there is a version of the MUT in black with moon phase but without the calendar. Also a very attractive watch. Regards Kev.

MA
mahesh
Nov 3, 2018

& especially great value with the steel version - there is not big competition to this watch... i'm equally impressed by the level of detail, 'the small slot' in the hour & minute hands so the reserve is always visible...excellent thought. 200% no year window is my choice (we anyways 'hate' date-window) - adds to the symmetry & beauty of the dial ! if JLC gives a LE without year window - the queue starts from me BTW the ONLY reason you'll have a logic for having this 'year window' is there i

MA
Marcus Hanke
Nov 3, 2018

... by leaving away the year window. Those stubby leap year hands squeezed into the subidals of perpetual calendars belong to the weirdest design elements available in the horological repertoire. For me, the best way is to integrate them into a movement bridge and permit legibility on the watch's back. However, it would make necessary a completely new movement design. Consequently, I think the year window is the lesser problem. Marcus

AM
amanico
Nov 3, 2018

Credit picture: Antiquorum. There wasn't much lume...

TR
traineract
Nov 3, 2018

I actually like it on the dial. I don't feel it's v obvious n it's there when I need it. Kinda like 4 digit display, ala iwc. It's q cool imo

VE
Velociphile - No longer in the building
Nov 3, 2018

don't seem to adore it. I have been close to buying it twice. 1. I think it needs more dial depth (think of the effect the PP3940 has) 2. I wish the hour and minute hands had their tail tips arriving at the centre at a true tangent to make what I would call pure dauphine shape. 3. Provide French language (like the old model) 4. I wish they bothered to better finish the movement (say to sparkly Duometre spec decoration) Velociphile

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