Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph World Time

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Amanico delivers a comprehensive review of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph World Time, a significant release from SIHH 2018. He contextualizes this new model by comparing it to other rare chronograph world timers from brands like Girard Perregaux and Patek Philippe, as well as JLC's own Extreme World Compressor. Amanico highlights the Polaris's refined design, reduced dimensions, and titanium construction, offering a detailed look at its place in modern horology.

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In the modern production, there are not so many chronographs which also are world time.

Girard Perregaux comes to mind, as soon as the very early 2000's, Patek, last year, with the 5930G, and, last but not least, Jaeger Lecoultre, with the Extreme World Compressor, in the mid 2000's.

Girard Perregaux WWW TC:

Patek 5930G:

The Extreme World Compressor has been discontinued for some time, now, and Jaeger Lecoultre comes back with the same combination of complications, but this time, with the all new Polaris case.

The " E.W.C " was a huge watch, with " generous " dimensions: 46, 3 mm big, and more than 15 mm high.

The successor is much less bad boy, with a more sensual, less brutal and big case ( 44 mm ), much thinner, too, as it is 12, 5 mm high. It has the good taste to be made in titanium, so the weight is not too important nor fastidious.

The only thing which doesn't change is the movement, as the Cal 752 was already used in the Extreme World Compressor.

It is an automatic movement, made of 274 parts, beating at 28, 800 alternances per hour, with two barrels and an autonomy of 65 hours. A novelty on this movement, though, the oscillating weight, which is now made in tungsten.

Visible through the sapphire case back:

The chronograph measures minutes ( 30 ) and hours ( 12 ), and keeps the two subdials configuration of its elder brother, which contributes, in a big part, to the balance and the purity of the dial.

As we are speaking of the dial, it is funny to notice that the Extreme World Compressor borrowed these trapezoidal indices to the vintage Polaris, and that the Polaris Chronograph World Time does the same... Back to Caesar which belongs to Caesar... But in a more modern and refined way.

The dial is finished with great care, as it is the case for the other members of this new family, with a sun ray decoration for the enter part of the dial, grained for the outer part, and opaline for the bezel, which gives a very pleasant and qualitative feeling.

Like for the Extreme World Compressor, the Polaris Chronograph World Time uses a bar to allow the rotation of the 24 hours ring, ON the dial, not UNDER, as it was not possible due to the construction of the movement.

The chronograph can be activated by two nicely designed pushers, while the crown at 10 o' clock will be used to set the 24 hours ring, in order to match it with the city ( of the world ) of your choice.

The case is brushed and polished, which makes it look very qualitative, with some nice bevels.

Now is the hour of the choice. Indeed, Jaeger Lecoultre doesn't come with only one Polaris Chronograph World Time, as it is available with a black dial,

Or a blue dial.

Are you undecided? This side by side picture may help you.

Or not... My personal take here is that the Blue is more eye catching, but I wonder if the black is not a safer choice, in the long term.

My personal feeling on that new Chronograph World Time, now:

What I like a lot is:

- The 2 subdials chronograph, for the balance of the dial

- The lack of date, for the purity of the dial.

- The combination of a chronograph and a world time, which are both very friendly complications.

- The finishings of the dial and case.

- The comfort and the presence on the wrist, despite the generous 44 mm case.

- And the charm of this watch.

What I less like:

- Only one thing, but it irritates me, the bar on the dial to rotate the 24 hours ring... I regret that Jaeger Lecoultre didn't find a more discrete solution.

- One or two millimeters smaller would have been greater.Still it wears smaller than the size suggests it, on the paper.

- I would have preferred a lower price ( 14, 400 Euros ).

Still, the Polaris Chronograph World Time is my favorite among the 5 members of this new family. I see it as a very nice fiction.

What are your feelings about it?

Best,

Nicolas

About the Patek Philippe Patek Philippe 5930G-010 Ref. 5930

The Patek Philippe Reference 5930 combines two of the manufacture's highly regarded complications: the World Time and the Chronograph. This reference represents a modern interpretation of a complex horological tradition, integrating a flyback chronograph function with a display of 24 time zones. It is notable for its compact dimensions relative to its complication set, offering a balanced presence on the wrist.

The watch features a white gold case measuring 39.5mm in diameter, housing the self-winding Caliber CH 28-520 HU. This integrated movement provides a power reserve of approximately 55 hours. The dial is protected by a sapphire crystal, and the watch is water-resistant to 30 meters. The case design incorporates classic Patek Philippe elements, with polished and satin-finished surfaces.

Appealing to collectors who appreciate technical complexity and travel-oriented functions, the 5930 builds upon Patek Philippe's history of world time watches, tracing its lineage to earlier models. The integration of the chronograph adds a layer of functionality and horological interest. The reference is offered with a blue dial and is fitted with a leather strap, presenting a cohesive and refined aesthetic.

Specifications

Caliber: Cal.CH 28-520 HU

Case: White gold

Diameter: 39.5mm

Dial: blue

Water Resist.: 30m

Crystal: Sapphire

About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5930G

The Patek Philippe Reference 5930G represents a significant milestone in the manufacture s contemporary complications portfolio, introduced as part of their prestigious World Time collection. This reference carries forward Patek Philippe s distinguished heritage in geographical complications, a tradition dating back to the 1930s when the manufacture first collaborated with Louis Cottier on world time mechanisms. The 5930G specifically showcases Patek Philippe s mastery in combining their renowned world time complication with a chronograph function, creating one of the most sophisticated dual-complication timepieces in their current catalog. This reference exemplifies the brand s commitment to horological excellence while maintaining the aesthetic refinement that has defined Patek Philippe for over 180 years.

At the heart of the 5930G beats the impressive Caliber CH 28-520 HU, an automatic movement that seamlessly integrates a column-wheel chronograph with a world time mechanism displaying 24 time zones simultaneously. The movement features a flyback chronograph function, allowing for instant reset and restart capabilities, while the world time complication displays local time via the traditional 24-city disc around the dial periphery. The caliber incorporates Patek Philippe s advanced Gyromax balance wheel and Spiromax balance spring, ensuring exceptional timekeeping precision and stability. With its sophisticated gear train architecture, the CH 28-520 HU represents decades of research and development in dual-complication manufacturing.

Housed in a 39.5mm white gold case, the 5930G strikes an ideal balance between presence and wearability for a complex timepiece. The stunning blue dial serves as the perfect canvas for the intricate world time and chronograph displays, featuring applied gold hour markers and hands that complement the precious metal case. The fixed bezel and sapphire crystal provide a clear view of the multi-layered dial construction, while the 30-meter water resistance maintains practical everyday usability. From a collectibility standpoint, the 5930G occupies a coveted position within Patek Philippe s complicated watch hierarchy, appealing to serious collectors who appreciate both technical mastery and aesthetic excellence. Its combination of two highly sought-after complications in a contemporary case size makes it particularly desirable among collectors seeking a modern Patek Philippe complication with long-term investment potential.

Specifications

Caliber: Cal.CH 28-520 HU

Case: White gold

Diameter: 39.5mm

Dial: blue

Water Resist.: 30m

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

The titanium case and short, stubby lug design of the Polaris Chronograph World Time make it wear smaller than its 44mm measurement, often appearing like a 42mm watch.
The Polaris Chronograph World Time is considered a standout among JLC's 2018 novelties due to its distinct identity, unlike other tribute models that might suffer by comparison to their predecessors.
The lightweight nature of the titanium case is a notable feature, enhancing the wearing comfort of the 44mm watch.
While the blue dial is beautiful, the black dial version of the Polaris Chronograph World Time is often preferred for its classic aesthetic.
Some collectors express a desire for a Polaris model that combines the World Time and Chronograph complications with an alarm function.
A concern was raised about the movement appearing small relative to the 44mm case size.

The Discussion

MTR

Mar 27, 2018

Thank you for this great review!

This Polaris is definitely on my radar now. I like the sophisticated dial and prefer the black version. 42mm would have been better for me. My only concern: the size of the movement looks a little bit small for the case? Best, Thomas

amanico

Mar 27, 2018

Yes, a solid case back would have been better, here. Thanks, Thomas. [nt]

cfn

Mar 27, 2018

Tried both - weight is amazing

Great review with some good points. I had the chance to try it on during a visit to the Manufacture. I was amazed by the weight (or rather lack of). The titanium really does its work here. The blue dial is beautiful. The black dial is clearly the more classic. Claus

amanico

Mar 28, 2018

The lightness is amazing, on this watch, related to its dimensions. As I said, I think this is my favorite Polaris, with the 50th anniversary. Thanks, Claus. [nt]

Tim_M

Mar 28, 2018

A very comfortable watch and handsome

The titanium case and smart lug design - short and stubby - ensures that this watch wears "smaller" than its real measurement. In person, without the specifications, I would have guessed that this is a 42mm watch. Of the 2018 novelties, this and the Reverso Tribute Small Seconds seem to be the biggest winners. I like the alarm and "vanilla" lume of the Polaris Memovox, but the watch suffers by comparison to the Tribute to Polaris which set the standard for this kind of JLC tribute model. The Chr

amanico

Mar 28, 2018

For me, the winners are, in this order: The Polaris WT Chrono, the Reverso Tribute Small Seconds ( I will review it in two weeks ) and the Polaris 50th Anniversary.

But the Polaris WT Chrono has something I like a lot. The combination of complications speaks loud to me. I dream of a Polaris WT / Chrono AND Alarm! Best, Tim, and thanks for your input. Nicolas