A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar Strap

The 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar is one of the finest watches of the current catalog of Lange & Söhne. It is further proof that inside the Manufacture from Saxony, things are not done the same way. It does combine complications that are found in other watches but it is the outcome of a specific development that makes it very different from what would have been a synthesis between the Double Split and the Datograph Perpetual .

This watch also has a feature that makes it unique in the Lange & Söhne context: it is the only one, since the rebirth of the brand, to display the date without the large double window. I love the dial, inspired by the pocket watches ones, which I find balanced and legible, despite the proliferation of information. I appreciate in particular the presentation of the moonphases display that doesn't appear to be "flattened" as it is a bit the case on the Datograph Perpetual. The power reserve (42 hours) indicator at noon is also very useful.




The architecture of the movement, as with any chronograph movement from Lange & Söhne, is beautiful even if the feeling of depth is less noticeable than with a Double Split. The fly-back mechanism and the two column wheels are clearly distinguishable and contribute to the visual appeal of the movement.

The case offers reasonable dimensions given the complexity of the watch with a diameter of 41,9mm and a thickness of 14,7mm. Obviously, the watch can not be considered as slim but it remains harmonious and balanced.

Quintessence of classic watchmaking and perfect representative of what a high-end and complicated traditional timepiece should be, the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar comes with a brown crocodile leather strap in the pink gold version. There is no surprise in this choice, I find again the usual combination used by Lange. This combo is of course very tasteful but I have to admit that it doesn't embody a  risk-taking attitude. Moreover, when I look at my own collection, none of my Lange watches has kept its original bracelet, whether they were black or brown. They bore me (yes I have to confess it) and I've always wanted to make these watches less formal. Fortunately, the Lange Western Europe team had the great idea to dress this 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar, and some other representatives of the collection (all in pink gold), with straps specifically made by Camille Fournet to give more energy and to break the codes, sometimes too rigid, of the Manufacture. For the occasion, Alexander Kraft, CEO of Sotheby's International Realty France-Monaco and famous style amabassador, has played the game and brought his keen eye and his dandy elegance  to define the textures, shapes and colors straps. The result is sometimes surprising but always refined. In all cases, the straps bring a new dimension to the watches by immersing them in a different atmosphere and tend to mitigate the impact of pink gold, some pieces  even giving the feeling  to be made of honey gold!



The most spectacular combination was used in the context of the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar because the orange (yes, orange) color blasts the wise and tidy side of the watch. The smooth finish is also surprising as the thickness of the strap which can be explained by the height of the case. But what a pleasure to put this watch on the wrist! The strap proves to be very flexible and the comfort is improved compared to a new crocodile leather strap which is always quite stiff at the beginning. And the fact to forget, even if it is only once, the never ending brown strap - pink gold case story is really enjoyable for me! Finally, this daring approach, this energy make as if by chance the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar even more desirable.

All this makes me say that brands are wrong to generally neglect the topic of the straps, remaining in the ultra classic and quiet colors and textures. Besides, I see more and more often in the stores and boutiques, that sellers dare riskier combinations with more distinct colors to present the watches in the displays. This doesn't harm the image of the brands they represent, on the contrary, it dusts off the style, attracting younger customers (and more women). In a context where the watch industry moves more and more away from the aspirations of this new clientele (which represents the commercial potential of tomorrow), time is coming that brands understand that the lack of risk-taking is not the solution . It is the reason why I welcome the approach of the Lange Western Europe team that has understood this challenge. In the end, we may like or not these combos but the extra emotion brought by them create an additional interest.



Different watches featuring Camille Fournet straps created with Alexander Kraft are available at the Lange & Söhne boutique of Paris located rue de la Paix.

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