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Z3 provides a captivating live report from SIHH 2010, focusing on A. Lange & Söhne's novelties. He highlights the brand's return to its traditional design DNA and the introduction of 'honey gold,' a new, exceptionally hard metal. Z3's perspective complements other reports by emphasizing the brand's focus on filling collection gaps and introducing pieces long requested by collectors.
PuristSPro's 2010 SIHH Live Reporting by Z3
A. Lange & Sohne 2010 Novelties
Instead of coming out with drastically new models (such as the case of the 31-day power reserve last year), Lange is focusing on its roots and traditional design DNA this year. According to a Lange executive, the goal is to "fill the gaps in the collection, and introduce pieces that many customers have long asked for".
This is certainly my takeaway this year. Besides the novelties, another interesting development is the introduction of a new metal "honey gold". It is a color that's somewhere between white gold and rose gold (but much closer to white gold). It will offer people who wear only white-metal watches just a "hint" of color that is very understated.
Another desirable property of the honey gold is that it is very hard. Much harder than the 750 gold alloys currently on the market, and if I recall correctly from the press conference, even harder than steel...
Fellow moderator "foversta" has done a fantastic and comprehensive report. I am just offering my perspective.
This year is the brand's 165 years anniversary and the brand pays homage to F.A. Lange, introducing the Tourbograph (50 pcs), Lange 1 Tourbillon (150 pcs), and 1815 Moonphase (265 pieces) in "honey gold"
The finishing on the movement follows the styles of the vintage Lange pocket watches. The circular grains are quite different from Lange's finishing that we typically see.
The Lange 1 Daymatic, in Pt, RG and YG (from left to right)
It has a completely new automatic movement (and I believe the first Lange with FULL SIZED rotor, made with gold, platinum rims, and spokes from copper beryllium).
It measure 39.5mm, 1mm larger than than Lange 1. Power reserve of 50 hours. The retrograde week is adjusted by the pusher on the left.
This is interesting, but having seen the beautiful proportions of Lange 1 for years, it will take some time for me to get used to having the time dial on the right-hand side...
The new 1815 Chronograph, in a slightly larger case (39.5mm). Available in WG and RG.
Richard Lange "Referenzuhr", Limited edition of 50 pieces in Platinum and 75 pieces in Rose Gold.
Measures 40.5mm
It features a second-reset botton (at 2'O clock). Pressing it would reset the sub-secondhand to 0, while the watches' internal clock still ticks.
It is useful for measuring short duration events (lasting for less than 1 minute). A natural use would be for doctors to measure a patient's pulse. (I remember Graham has made a few of these doctor's watches with second reset, named "Sprint")
Zeitwerk Luminous. A more playful version of the original, with a semi-transparent dial.
Personally speaking, I would prefer Lange to be more dressy and serious, with more metallic tones than luminova... But that's just my humble opinion.
I am leaving my favorite for last!
I present you the Saxonia Annual Calendar in WG and PG.
Now for all of us who love the proportions of the Langematik Perpetual but need to reconsider because of the cost, here is our chance! The price is roughly HALF of that of the Perpetual.
I like it quite a lot! I think the dial is much cleaner and more legible - measuring 38.5mm, a very nicely proportioned watch with very practical functions, indeed filling in a large gap in Lange's collection.
Now I will wait for the model to be introduced in honey gold=)
Just like the Perpetual, no effort is spared on the finishing.
As a side note, as I was attending the U.S. press conference, I noticed a familiar face sitting right behind me...
It's none other than the maestro Philippe Dufour!
The jovial maestro approves this year's novelties with glee=)
Hope you enjoyed the report and the photos.
Yours truly,
Jon (Z3)
This message has been edited by Z3 on 2010-01-30 15:27:48 This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2010-02-03 20:15:49The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 reference 206.032, introduced in 1999, is a notable example of the brand's commitment to traditional watchmaking principles. This model is part of the 1815 collection, which pays homage to the birth year of Ferdinand Adolph Lange and emphasizes classic design elements such as Arabic numerals and blued hands, drawing inspiration from historical Lange pocket watches. It represents a more understated and purist aesthetic compared to some of the brand's more complex offerings, focusing on fundamental horological excellence.
This particular reference features an 18k rose gold case measuring 36mm in diameter and 7.5mm in thickness. It houses the manually wound L941.1 caliber, visible through a sapphire crystal case back. The movement provides a power reserve of 45 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal on the front, protecting a solid silver dial. Water resistance is rated at 30 meters, suitable for everyday wear but not for immersion.
The 1815 206.032 appeals to collectors who appreciate classical proportions and a focus on fundamental watchmaking without excessive complications. Its smaller case size reflects a more traditional approach to men's wristwatches, making it a desirable piece for those seeking a discreet yet highly refined timepiece. The combination of rose gold and a silver dial offers a warm and legible presentation, consistent with the collection's historical inspirations.
You have a very lucky lens! Thank you for the great photos. So far your description of the new honey gold is very satisfying. I've been pondering the colour of this gold for some time now. My favorite watch is the Honey Gold 1815 Moonphase. Not only do I appreciate the complexity of this watch and its 8x more accurate moonphase system compared to 122 year moonphase; but I appreciate the entire design of this watch and even the differentiated movement decoration of this watch. Thank you for provi
It's simple and there is nothing superfluous on the dial, with a very attractive moonphase, and a refreshingly different finishing on the movement that ties in closely with Lange's tradition as a pocket-watch maker. Not to mention a relatively attractive pricing. I will try to post some comparisions of the honey gold with other gold, shortly. Jon (Z3)
Really good photos. Thank you for sharing. How did you use the flash there? Bounced or diffused? Anyway, my fav is Annual Calendar, too. But one thing a bit of bothering me is the Caliber number suggests they started the development of the movement in 2008 - not typical. Typically they introduce a model with caliber number 4 to 6 years back.... So, one curious questions is whether they "rushed" to introduce this model or not???? But still that is the model I like and I would like to see it in th
Your photos have certainly captured the true craftmanship of each piece. My money would be on the new Richard Lange.
The flash comes from Nikon speedlite SB-600 and is simply bounced. A very light set of equipment. Not sure about whether calibre development is rushed or not, interested to find out from a Lange expert. See you soon, Ken. Jon (Z3)
while dryly traditional, really works for me. I can see wearing that watch daily under the right social circumstances, and always looking upon it with deep appreciation. A great fine example of traditional beauty.
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