Lange & Söhne offers us a very nice present at the end of the year with the unveiling of a limited edition watch dedicated to the famous Parisian retailer Dubail. The Dubail family has been a long-standing partner of the Saxon manufacture and this lasting relationship led to the opening of the L
Lange & Söhne offers us a very nice present at the end of the year with the unveiling of a limited edition watch dedicated to the famous Parisian retailer Dubail. The Dubail family has been a long-standing partner of the Saxon manufacture and this lasting relationship led to the opening of the Lange & Söhne boutique located in the rue de la Paix at the beginning of 2013. At that time, the Paris boutique was the second in Europe (after Dresden) to be opened, symbolizing the proximity between the brand and its retailer. The announcement of this watch is not in itself very surprising. And yet, Lange & Söhne practically never carries out this kind of limited series,because its strategy is to favor the boutique editions.
The beautiful mother-of-pearl dial:
In any case, we don't have to hide our pleasure: the watch is successful. Obviously, its context is well known: it is based on the current Grand Lange One in white gold with a diameter of 40.9mm and a thickness of 8.8mm. But its specificity lies in its dial, made of blue mother-of-pearl. The decision to combine a refined dial with the larger case of the Lange One may seem odd. But that's what makes the watch so interesting because it plays with talent on this paradox.
It is important to remember that today's Grand Lange One stands out from its predecessor. Unlike the first edition, which used the same movement than the Lange One (what led to change the dial lay-out), the current version uses a specific movement, the caliber L095.1 with a single barrel and a larger diameter. These changes have two consequences. First, the thickness of the caliber is limited to 4.7mm what allows to obtain a relative finesse of the case and a much slimmer style than the Lange One. Then, the presentation of the dial is similar to that of the Lange One: nothing is cut, there isn't any overlapping sections and Lange & Söhne even reviewed the size of the double window of the big date display to keep exactly the same proportions.
Depending on the light conditions, it can become lighter or darker:
The Grand Lange One Limited Edition for Dubail takes advantage of this base: the watch has a generous diameter but remains elegant and very comfortable to wear. The blue mother-of-pearl dial is ideal in this context: it brings punch and originality without falling into a too precious style. The large size allows to take full advantage of the changing reflections and shades, the dial continuously moving from light blue to deep blue depending on the light conditions and the inclination of the wrist. The mother of pearl is very dynamic and even if the readability is reduced compared to the classic versions, it is a real plus compared to a Grand Lange One range quite sober and quiet (and especially when we consider that the catalog version in white gold only exists with a black dial).
The caliber L095.1 is carefully finished according to the standards of the manufacture. The reference to the limited edition with the Dubail name is indicated:
Obviously, it is not easy for a man to position himself on a mother-of-pearl dial watch. But the Grand Lange One Limited Edition for Dubail deserves this effort. And let's not forget that it is the only way to enjoy a Grand Lange One with a blue dial since it was not one of the 4 watches of the blue series that was presented a few weeks ago . The other asset of this watch is that it is the first Grand Lange One to offer such type of dial. The mother of pearl dial is an usual practice at Lange and many references have used it. The Lange One, the Little Lange One for example. But the Grand Lange One has always escaped this aesthetic treatment!
The Grand Lange One Limited Edition for Dubail is for these reasons an interesting reference for collectors of the Saxon manufacture. But it also has the assets to appeal to a more casual clientele because, in particular thanks to its size, it offers an easier and more contemporary approach than the old Lange One Soirée. By using known elements, Lange & Sohne has managed to create with the Dubail family a successful watch that closes with style the year 2017.
The reflections of light are accentuated once the watch is put on the wrist:
The 25 pieces of the Grande Lange One Limited Edition for Dubail are available in the Lange & Söhne boutique of the rue de la Paix and in the different Dubail boutiques in Paris at a price of 43,900 euros including tax. Note that bezel-set pieces are also available (3 with brilliant-cut diamonds and 3 with baguette-cut diamonds).
Pros:
+ the pleasure of finding a mother-of-pearl dial in the context of the Grand Lange One
+ the slender style
+ the dial balance
+ the pleasure brought by the daily use of the movement L095.1
Cons:
- the readability is down compared to the classic dials
