A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Pour le Mérite WG Review

I must admit I was very surprised to discover a new version, in white gold, of the Richard Lange Pour le Mérite at the end of 2016. I was not expecting it at all because I considered that  the platinum and rose gold versions presented in 2009 as final. However, I was not going to spoil my pleasure because I have always considered the Richard Lange Pour le Mérite as the most accomplished three hand watch from a large high end watch brand.

The Richard Lange line is dedicated to timekeeping and chronometry in the Lange catalog. The Richard Lange Pour le Mérite is characterized by the presence of a chain & fusée mechanism which ensures stability of the behavior of the movement throughout the power reserve (36 hours). This is why it bears the name "Pour le Mérite" that characterizes Lange & Söhne watches with chain & fusée. It is also the only one to date from the Saxon manufactory to feature this mechanism without being accompanied by a tourbillon and this specificity explains a large part  of its charm. Because when we observe it dial side, nothing seems to distinguish it from a simple 3 hand watch with a small second subdial at 6 o'clock ... at least in the way the dial is organized.




Both 2009 versions indeed possess an aesthetic feature that allow them to occupy a special place in the history of the contemporary catalog of Lange & Söhne: they were the first since the Langematik Anniversary to offer an enamel dial. This dial was more complex to make than the Langematik one as composed of 3 layers. This fundamental element of the Richard Lange Pour le Mérite, at the same level than its particular movement, strangely disappeared from the 2016 white gold version. "Strangely" is not perhaps the appropriate adverb since one simple reason explains the replacement of the enamel dial with a black solid silver dial. The 2016 watch is sold, in the context of a limited edition of 218 pieces (corresponding to the number of points of sale), in an almost identical price as the rose gold version in 2009 (in France, 82,000 euros vs 82,400 euros 7 years earlier) which is, given the watches price inflation, a significant decrease in constant euros.




In a sense, this is a positive. Lange & Söhne takes into account the market environment and adjusts its prices. But was it appropriate to do so in this extremely high price segment? After all, the customers of such watch are collectors, connoisseurs (don't forget that we are talking about a three hand watch over 80,000 euros!), are less sensitive (if not reluctant) to this type of argument and focus primarily on the watchmaking content and on the concept of intrinsic value of the product. And what about the collectors who bought the Richard Lange Pour le Mérite in 2009 and 8 years later learn that 218 additional pieces of this watch will be produced? Not easy to explain as the rarity and the exclusivity of the movement were fundamental criteria of purchase of the original versions. There is therefore, in my opinion, a certain ambiguity behind the presentation of this watch in 2016 and I am convinced that the owners of the platinum or rose gold versions would have preferred that it wasn't released.

If I set aside this context and only take into account the qualities of the Richard Lange Pour le Mérite in white gold, it appears unquestionably as a very nice watch. Its great strength remains the superb movement L044.1 with a 3hz frequency and a power reserve of 36 hours. Beyond the quality of finishes and the architecture highlighting the chain & fusée mechanism, it surprises by the fineness of the 636 links of the chain. The behavior of the latter is extremely fluid which is not the case for all chain & fusée watches I could see. The balance wheel is equipped with an in-house spiral and the openings on the 3/4 plate  are executed with a lot of care.




The black dial of the Richard Lange Pour le Mérite in white gold is  made of solid silver as specified above. It is useless to deny it: it has neither the charm nor the visual impact of the enamel dial of the original versions. It remains attractive and keeps fortunately the 3 levels providing a little feeling of depth. I appreciate the little touches of red on the numbers of the quarters that prevent the dial from falling into too much austerity. But the whole is visually very sober.

Its case is a model of balance: with a diameter of 40.5mm and a thickness of 10.5mm, it offers harmonious proportions. I find this size ideal for this type of watch that must both provide a certain elegance and also a certain presence on the wrist considering the specificity of the movement. The dominant color of the dial reduces the perception of size and gives the impression that this version is slightly smaller than the original versions. The watch also appears as less warm, highlighting its Germanic rigor.

Fortunately, the magic of the movement L044.1 is preserved and the pleasure to wind this movement, to observe the behavior of the chain and to discreetly take advantage of a rare watch makes the white gold Richard Lange Pour le Mérite an exceptional piece. And even if its price is high, it is the only one to offer the chain & fusée mechanism in a Lange & Söhne context at less than 100,000 euros. So the presentation of this watch is finally good news ... for collectors who had not been able to purchase the versions in pink gold or platinum. The dissatisfaction of some makes the happiness of others ...



Thank a lot to the Lange & Söhne boutique in Paris.

Pros:
+ The technical features and finishes of the movement L044.1
+ The small links and the fluidity of the chain
+ A sober and elegant presentation
+ The presence on the wrist

Cons:
- The dial has neither the charm nor the visual impact of the enamel dial
- A surprising release and rather difficult to explain to collectors who purchased the original watches in 2009