wisPete's review of the 35mm A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia in white gold offers a compelling argument for the enduring appeal of simplicity in high horology. His personal reflection on how this watch, devoid of grand complications, profoundly impacted his collecting philosophy underscores the subjective nature of passion in watch collecting. This article highlights how subtle design refinements can elevate a timepiece's presence and purpose.
A watch made me pause and rethink this crazy hobby of ours It did so without complication or flare, but with three hands, twelve applied indexes, a silver dial, a three-piece case, and a technically simple but perfectly executed movement. It is the 35mm A Lange & Sohne Saxonia in white gold.
I. On the wrist: the case and dial
I've set my eyes on the Saxonia for quite some time now. The previous iteration, housed in a larger 37mm case, wears beautifully on my 6.5 inch (or 165mm) wrist. However, in my opinion, the dial lacked a certain "umph" that's customary in the brand's other offerings, and the movement seemed a bit small for the case diameter. For these reasons, I was able to resist its temptation. However, when I strapped on the new 35mm version, I gave in.
A subtle change in dial layout, from the dot-dash indexes to the more assertive double-dash design, and a minor contraction in case diameter did wonders to the overall appeal of the watch. In my opinion, the current Saxonia embodies more presence and purpose even though it is 2mm smaller. And thanks to the reduced case size, the calibre now fills up the watch, resulting in a more balanced view on the movement side.
II. Off the wrist : the movement Despite being the simplest movement of ALS, the L941.1 took my breath away the very first time I laid my eyes on it, and it continues to impress. The use of German silver (an alloy of copper, zinc, and nickel) and the perfectly applied Glashutte stripes give the movement an aged and creamy character, which contrasts nicely against the cool, brushed, white gold casing.
The signature ¾ plate doesn't feature sharp and challenging angles. Nevertheless, the finishing on those round edges is executed to perfection. The red jewels on the top plate are enclosed by gold chatons, which are then secured by heated blue screws; all polished to perfection. The cap jewel for the escape wheel is placed in a black-polished steel setting, which is chamfered so that it blends perfectly into the anglage of the ¾ plate.
The hand-engraved balance cock is another draw. This is the one place on the movement that has the most human touch, as the superwomen at ALS carve out the markings one by one, giving each Lange its unique identity.
The list of perfectly executed details continues, some of which I have yet discovered. And that's the most amazing feature of the watch: the closer I look, the more pleasantly surprised I am.
III. Why the impact? I recently went through a phase chasing after complications and heritage. I firmly believed that the only watches worth collecting are the rare, technical, and historically important pieces. When I saw this 35mm Saxonia, something sparked inside. I simply loved the watch, and I could care less about collectability. True, this watch doesn't house any complication, isn't technically important to the industry or brand, nor is it ultra rare; but this is the watch that I love wearing - and that's that. Besides loving how it looks on my wrist, I also admire its character: beneath the simple yet elegant appearance, there is a soulfully executed calibre. There is more than what meets the eye - and the closer and longer one looks, the more one appreciate the piece. That's the kind of gentleman I strive to be.
Just like that, my priorities have been realigned - while collectability is important, nothing should come before the genuine passion for a watch. The 35mm Saxonia rekindled that passion in my still-maturing collection. Thank you all for reading Pete Epilogue: I want to give a shout-out to the newly re-opened Marshall Pierce in Chicago, through whom I acquired my beloved Saxonia. This family owned shop has an incredible inventory of Richemont pieces, including the enamel dial JLC Duometre a Quantieme Lunaire, the platinum Vacheron Patriamony Traditionelle with slate grey dial, and a good number of Lange complicated watches that I lust over. The owner and his associates are all passionate and knowledgeable watch collectors, and will make you feel at home even if you're just there to admire and chat about timepieces. It is a very good place to "scratch the itch" - but beware, you might get hopelessly infected. Yours truly is Exhibit A.