Luxury Watch Case Design Discussion — WatchProSite Forum Digest

Jay (Eire) · 2022-09-22T12:40:34Z

Explore the overlooked artistry of Urwerk cases, particularly the UR-105, in this WatchProSite discussion. Jay (Eire) and collectors debate Urwerk's unique design, wearability, and craftsmanship.

Jay (Eire)

WPS member · Independents forum

31 replies4245 views3 photos

Jay (Eire) challenges the conventional wisdom of watch appreciation, asking if the intricate case designs of Urwerk timepieces, particularly his UR-105, are often overlooked in favor of movement finishing or more traditional case makers. He prompts the community to consider whether Urwerk's two decades of innovation in case design merit greater acknowledgment within the luxury watch world. This discussion delves into the nuances of what makes a watch case truly exceptional, beyond mere aesthetics.

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Do the cases on Urwerk get overlooked? I hear so much praise in certain parts of our watch world for cases made by so and so case maker or manufacture. Or that such and such case maker is now making cases for brand X and how this is such a significant change for the brand (making it now even more attractive, more important).

But I look at this watch and note that there is more detail on this 105 case than any other watch I own, and perhaps more than any other watch I’ve handled. Now, perhaps it’s not as refined as some of those other cases, but it’s infinitely more detailed.

What am I missing here? Or am I missing anything? Does Urwerk merit more acknowledgment of what it has done for the last 20+ years and what it still does in terms of case design and manufacture?

Any thoughts?

Key Points from the Discussion

Urwerk is a polarizing brand, known only to a niche audience, but its complex cases, like the UR-105, are highly appreciated by those who connect with the brand's unique aesthetic.
Case design is crucial not only for aesthetics but also for wearability and comfort, often determining a watch's long-term appeal, similar to how tires are vital for a car's performance.
The decision to acquire an Urwerk, such as the UR-105, often involves a prolonged consideration period due to its distinctive size and unconventional design, emphasizing the importance of wrist-feel.
Urwerk, alongside brands like MB&F, embodies innovation and uniqueness, appealing to collectors who value imagination and unconventional design over traditional horological norms.
While movement finishing has historically been a primary focus for collectors, a shift towards appreciating overall quality, unique design, and handmade craftsmanship is becoming more prevalent.
The Patek Philippe Nautilus, initially polarizing, gained widespread popularity through social media, whereas Urwerk and MB&F remain choices for a more sophisticated collector due to their unusual and less universally accepted designs.

The Discussion

Cozmopak

Sep 22, 2022

The case designs of Urwerk are my favorite part of their offerings

My 202 in black platinum is the strangest watch I own but the case finishing and complexity of design is executed at the very highest level.

Fastwong

Sep 22, 2022

This is so cool I even started googling black platinum but with sparse results. Is the black platinum a surface coating over platinum or an actual black alloy?

Cozmopak

Sep 22, 2022

A very high quality coating

They may be the only ones who have ever done this. The way the case reflects the light is mesmerizing

Jay (Eire)

Sep 23, 2022

It’s an unusual one, platinum in disguise. Very Urwerk.

andrea~

Sep 22, 2022

I love this 105

It's one of the most beautiful watches the brand offers... The case is fantastic, it feels nuanced and modern

Jay (Eire)

Sep 23, 2022

Yes Andrea.

It was the nuanced aspect I was getting at. There’s a lot of detail in this case, and I don’t know if people give that the credit it may deserve. And then there’s the design. As Patrick mentions below that is probably just too polarizing to get the true objective credit it deserves.

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