Independents
Watch_time_it_is shares a personal account of visiting independent watchmaker Masahiro Kikuno, focusing on the human connection behind horological artistry. This installment, part of a series on independent watchmakers, highlights Kikuno's philosophy of balance and the bespoke creation process for his Sakubou timepiece.
One of a series - Stories of visits with independent watchmakers
A big part of a watch from an independent watchmaker, is the watchmaker. These are the stories not of the watches and their technical marvel, but of my visits with the watchmakers themselves.
Masahiro Kikuno - August 2018
There is balance in life, and life in balance.
Both can be found in the watches and life of AHCI’s youngest member Masahiro Kukino.
Masahiro Kikuno - Watchmaker
An efficient and clean rail system transported me from the busy streets of Tokyo to quiet and narrow streets just 90 minutes away. Crowded restaurants replaced by a charming lunch in a local restaurant that seems more like a friend’s home. A brief taxi ride and we were at Masahiro’s atelier.
With us, Masahiro’s friend and translator Ken (known as "KIH" here) who, as fate would have it, I just met via this forum just the day prior. Another example of life in balance I suppose. Ken has written of Masahiro in the past and his joining makes the experience feel even more like a gathering of old friends.
Sakubou
I’ve traveled here to see the Sakubou, Masahiro’s latest watch with his own in-house movement. With a prominent moon phase, Sakubou is designed to bring your attention to the of-forgotten moon. As detailed on his web site:
“Now there are so many artificial lights all around and we no longer see the true darkness, therefore we no longer look at the moon with the same admiration as we did in the past. SAKUBOU was created to admire the moon again on your wrist.
Made almost entirely in-house and by hand, this wrist worn reminder to balance one’s hectic life with time for introspection allows for significant personalization. In my case a larger size, custom engraving, selection of materials, and more.
Much like a group of conspirators working on a grand plan, Ken, Masahiro, his wife (who among other things is the operations mastermind), and I spend much time around a small table in a tight room moving parts around a felt lined tray, dreaming, sketching, talking, and bringing to life my personalized Sakubou.
Ecosystem
During a tour of the home/atelier (the ultimate live/work balance) I discovered several glass containers each with a small fish or two, some snails, and plants submerged and sealed in water. Masahiro explained these are experiments he’s been doing on ecosystems – systems that are self balancing, each element adding to the others what is needed for the entire systems to survive. Despite being sealed, the plants provide the oxygen, the snails the cleaning, the fish the fertilizer for the plants and so on.
Once again, I find balance in Masahiro's life.
Earlier Piece
Ken accompanied me back to Tokyo with a vivid conversation on economics, politics, and culture. While not obvious to me at the time, each a topic where balance is good, being out of balance not so much.
Deciding I need some introspection, I end my day in a cigar and jazz bar at the hotel. Of course, “Blue Moon” plays as I reflect, placing a bow on the first chapter of this particular addition to my collection.
Some links of interest:
https://www.masahirokikuno.jp/
http://watchesbysjx.com/2017/05/portrait-masahiro-kikuno-japanese-watchmaker.html
https://www.nytimes.com/2015/11/12/fashion/japanese-watchmaker-adapts-traditional-timepiece.html
De Bethune DB25 Reference DB25
The DB25 represents De Bethune's entry in the 44.5mm manual-wind category, distinguished by its silver dial configuration within the DB25 series. This reference launched in 2006 and continues the brand's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie complications.
The 44.5mm case is crafted from 18k white gold with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 30 meters. The manual-winding caliber DB2105 movement provides a substantial 120-hour power reserve. The watch features a leather strap attachment.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking De Bethune's technical approach to timekeeping in a precious metal case. The extended power reserve and manual-wind operation position it for enthusiasts who appreciate hands-on interaction with their timepieces. The 44.5mm sizing places it in contemporary proportions within the independent watchmaking segment.
I’ve been following Kikuno’s work over the past few years - love his approach and I hope he is having success with his releases. Did you end up getting the Sakubou?
Looking forward to see and read more about his watches .
Nice dial on the Sakubou. Love the Ecosystem. Vte
See you somewhere in the world soon Ken
Many thanks for this interesting report. I also hope that you tell a bit more about the ideas that went into the design process you have briefly mentioned, when you eventually present your finished watch. I look as well forward to the further atelier visit reports in the announced series. Björn
SBS, Thank you for sharing a personal experience and good luck for the gestation of your Sakubou. I found the mini Closed Ecospheres interesting. From personal massive fails, I attest to the concept of balance. Once, I introduced a single plant into a stable system and everything died! Regards, MTF
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