MB&F vs. Urwerk: A Collector's Guide to Avant-Garde Independent Watchmaking

damianp · 2020-12-05T04:15:00Z

Explore the world of avant-garde horology with MB&F and Urwerk. Compare craftsmanship, wearability, and discover alternative independent watchmakers.

damianp

WPS member · Independents forum

27 replies5998 views2 photos

In a quest for horological artistry that defies convention, damianp explores the captivating world of "steampunkish" watches, specifically eyeing creations from MB&F and Urwerk. This article delves into the community's insights, comparing these independent powerhouses and suggesting alternatives for collectors drawn to avant-garde design and technical innovation. damianp's journey highlights the challenges of evaluating such unique timepieces without direct access to retailers, making collective wisdom invaluable.

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Dear all, one type of watch I've wanted to add to my collection for a long time, is a steampunkish watch like the Urwerk UR-105 or the MB&F Horological Machine No9 (added pictures taken from the manufacturer's websites). Those are just examples, though. I won't necessarily take exactly those watches.

As none of these two manufacturers have a retailer close by or even in my country, I can't just easily go somewhere to get a feeling for them and their watches. So before traveling somewhere far next year to make my own opinion, I'd like to get some opinions of the community, preferably of owners or people, that have had a closer look at these brands. Would you prefer one of these brands over the other? If yes, why? Are they comparable in quality and lvl of craftsmanship? Do you have experience with their service department? Would you choose a different brand for such a type of watch (watch must still be in production/available)? Looking forward to some replies.

About the Urwerk Ref. UR-105

The Urwerk UR-105 reference represents a distinct evolution within the brand's "Knight" series, characterized by its unique "CT" (CollectoR) designation. This particular iteration offers a novel approach to displaying the intricate movement, allowing the wearer to selectively reveal or conceal the internal mechanics. This design choice distinguishes it from earlier UR-105 models, which either presented a fully open view or a more restricted display focused solely on the minute track, providing a balance between technical exhibition and visual discretion.

The UR-105 CT features a case crafted from titanium and PVD-coated steel, housing the UR 5.02 self-winding movement. The case measures 39.5 mm in width, 53 mm in length, and has a thickness of 17.3 mm. The movement provides a power reserve of 48 hours. A sapphire crystal protects the dial, offering a clear view of the wandering hours display. Water resistance is rated at 30 meters.

This reference appeals to collectors who appreciate Urwerk's distinctive approach to time display and mechanical innovation, particularly those who value the option to control the visual presentation of the movement. The UR-105 CT fits into the brand's lineage as a refinement of the wandering hours concept, offering a more interactive experience compared to its predecessors. Its design emphasizes both the technical artistry and the wearer's engagement with the timepiece.

Specifications

Caliber: UR 5.02

Case: Titanium and PVD-coated steel

Diameter: 39.5 mm (width) x 53 mm (length)

Dial: Black

Water Resist.: 30 m

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

MB&F movements are noted for superior finishing, featuring black polish and anglage, while Urwerk movements often present a more machine-finished aesthetic. MB&F also provides custom, model-specific packaging.
The Urwerk UR-105 'Steelwheels' features a sapphire bridge, an impressive detail that enhances its technical appeal.
For wearability, the Urwerk is often considered more practical on the wrist compared to MB&F's designs, though both brands represent the pinnacle of independent watchmaking.
Some collectors perceive Urwerk's designs as less 'gimmicky' than MB&F, favoring its aesthetic approach.
Despite the need for personal try-on, gathering community opinions is crucial for informed decision-making, especially when retailers are geographically distant.
Alternative brands to consider for similar technical and avant-garde aesthetics include Akrivia, Christophe Claret, Greubel Forsey, De Bethune, Romain Gauthier, and HYT, as well as open-dial variants from other brands.
The De Bethune DB28 is another strong contender in the realm of technically innovative and visually striking independent watches.
While the Urwerk may be more wearable, the MB&F HM9 is recognized as an amazing and cool 'piece of wrist art'.

The Discussion

patrickh

Dec 5, 2020

vs LAURENT FERRIER X URWERK LR-UR 2

monochrome-watches.com

ArmisT

Dec 5, 2020

This piece is so elegant. What a collaborative product.

damianp

Dec 5, 2020

Thank you. Nice watch, but not technical enough for me and also probably not available anymore (ltd ed. from 2018)

patrickh

Dec 5, 2020

my pleasure to contribute to your post.

I hope you will find your Dream "technical" watch.

Watchonthewrist

Dec 5, 2020

Both amazing and very cool watches but also both different.

The Urwerk would the most wearable one . I have seen them both and tried them on the wrist . There both on top of the game and you can’t go wrong with any of them imho. I own a UR103 and have had great customer service experience. Don’t own a MB

damianp

Dec 5, 2020

Thank you for sharing your experience. Why do you think, the Urwerk is more wearable? Just because of the design? Or other reasons as well?