After the LM1 that initiated within the MB
& F collection a new line of Machines less radical and yet so
inspired, Max Büsser and his friends are back at the end of 2012 with
the latest Horological Machine, the HM5 "On the Road
Again".
Since 2005, the first 4 Horological Machine
have changed the watchmaking rules with their sources of
inspiration rooted in contemporary culture, in their alternative
approaches of time display and their three-dimensional
structure which made them similar to horological sculptures. Despite
their differences, their originality, they have been built a coherent
line because they share, sometimes with subtility, common traits that
draw a sort of continuity between them. Max Büsser invited us to travel
in space, in the sky, to dive in the 50s, in the science fiction and
manga universes. So I was wondering with a lot of curiosity what would
be the themes behind the new Horological Machine. This question
systematically creates envy, excitement to learn more when the Machine
is looming.
The
HM5 does not disappoint at this level: this is not one but two main
sources of inspiration which coexist in this Machine which is a true
anthem of the early 70s.
The first source of
inspiration comes from the digital display watches, a kind of dinosaur
species (from the Cretaceous because about to disappear) which were one
of the last centres of resistance of the mechanical timepieces against
the rise of the quartz powered watch. To thwart the progress of this
technology, many brands embarked on alternative projects with bold and
futuristic designs that were telling the time through disks. The problem
of these watches was the relative difficulty to read the time because
disks were quite small in order to be inserted in the case and powered
by the usually basic mechanical movement.
One
of the most famous representatives of this category of watches was the
Amida Digitrend whose style makes us invariably think about a kind of
gadget straight-out from Star Trek! The tapered case and the vertical
time display remind us more Captain Kirk's
watch than John Doe's one on planet
Earth.
A futuristic watch of the 70's with
LED display, the Casquette from
Girard-Perregaux:Unfortunately,
this creative boldness was not enough and these watches were washed
away by the wave of quartz. Aficionados kept in memory their charm and
even some started to collect them. 40 years later, it is clear that they
have kept their appeal through futuristico-kitsch style which place
them outside of any watchmaking system. And amongst these adicionados we
find Max Büsser who was seduced by the incomparable aesthetic approach
and the vain (and so seductive) side of their fight that didn't do
anything more that hardly slowing down the
inevitable.
The
watch doesn't have a folding clasp but the buckle and the strap are very
efficient:
The
second source of inspiration can be found in the supercars from the
same period which showed the same aesthetic audacity, the same excessive
side a few months before the first oil
crisis.
Figures are magnified by
20%:The
great asset of the HM5 is its ability to reincarnate these oblivious
years while retaining all the features that make the strengths of any
Horological Machines: a high quality of execution, a gret care to the
elements that make it up and the little details here and there which
give an extra character and a playful touch.
The
HM5 is not a clone of the Amida despite a similar case. Fortunately and
obviously, the Machine goes much beyond in terms of quality level. The
Amida was created in a hurry, in response to the arrival of a new
technology. On the contrary, the HM5 is the project in which Max Büsser
spent the most time.
The
zirconium case (or better said the bodywork!) of the HM5 is
the part that convinced me the most: streamlined, complex and fluid at
the same time, it reminds me the curves of the HM4 one especially when
observed on the side. As such, the family air is indisputable,
reinforced by the visual impression given by the strap "lugs". But its
main feature is its modularity. Through the small crown located on the
case side, we can open the rear flaps that evoke these famous supercars
as well. These components have several functions: they first
transform the appearance of the watch. Then, they change the time
display lighting thanks to the passing light. Finally, if the
watch goes into the water, they facilitate the evacuation of the liquid.
Indeed, the movement is housed in a kind of waterproof
container waterproof. There is an area between the case and the
container in which can light, air, water move.
Let's
open the flaps!
The
crown is handled with ease thanks to its ergonomic design and its size.
It features the famous battle-axe motif on top, symbol of MB & F
since the very beginning. Three radial bearings support the winding
stem to prevent any improper handling due to a not suitable
position.
By
turning over the case, we discover the basis of movement which is very
familiar to us. Indeed, the visible caliber comes from Girard-Perregaux
like it was the case on the HM2 and HM3. It features its traditional
gold battle-axe shaped rotor. The performance of the calibre are classic
i.e. a 4 Hz frequency and a power reserve of 42 hours. Thanks to its
very good winding efficiency, it powers without problem the display
module.
The
latter deserves special attention. It was developed by chronode duet
Jean-François Mojon and Vincent Bogdan to animate two disks (hours and
minutes) which overlap as much as possible. Unlike the Amida and its
cousins, the HM5 offers a jumping hours system which is very welcome
here because it facilitates the legibility of time. The technical
performance is solid because hours jump in both directions to
ease time setting.
The
rotating numbered discs are placed flat on top of the movement. Thanks
to a reflective prism designed by a high-precision optical glass
supplier specialist and to a convex lens luminescent digits are
magnified by 20% and are displayed vertically in the dial (or more
precisely the "dashboard"). The HM5 is a true light box! The light is
reflected, bent to get an optimized display which allows to read the
time much easier than on the Amida. The result is very convincing as the
numbers are very legible even if the small pin of the green outline of
the minutes, in fact, the marker, is hardly
visible.
As
usual with any Machine, despite the large size (51, 5 x 49 x 22, 5 mm),
the HM5 is worn with comfort because it is well positioned on the wrist
despite the absence of a folding clasp. The "Racing" type rubber strap
holds well the Machine and the strap lugs allow a good adaptation to
different types of wrist.
The
HM5 is a successful Machine, intelligently designed, with an excellent
perceived quality, and which manages to bring back us without any
difficulty in the early 70s atmosphere.
And
yet, despite all these assets, I did not have the same love at first
sight that I had felt with the previous Machines. I wondered why. I just
think that it is missing one really surprising side to fully seduce.
Finding its main inspiration from watches that have actually
existed and not in other mechanical objects, this HM5 becomes almost
more "a watch" than a real "Machine" as the HM4 could be considered
being a real flying object at the wrist. The automotive inspiration is
obviously there but the atmosphere of the Amida can be felt
continuously. Finally, the HM5 is paradoxically perhaps too thoughtful,
too respectful of its influences. It gives the feeling of being less
spontaneous and loses its quirky side while winning control. It is
undoubtedly a watch with maturity, but what is expected from Max Büsser
is not on the contrary that he expresses his memories, his child at
heart in a less controlled way?
I
would not say that I was disappointed by the HM5. But maybe it didn't
meet my expectations which are always very high with a new
Machine.
The HM5 "On the Road Again" is presented in a
limited series of 66 pieces in zirconium case.
I
would like to thank a lot the team of MB & F and the MAD
Gallery.
Fr.Xavier
PS: please note
that the pictured watch is a prototype and that some details may differ
in the final version.
Technical details
Horological Machine No5 On the Road
Again
Limited edition of 66 pieces
in zirconium
Engine:
Three-dimensional horological engine developed by
Jean-François Mojon and Vincent Boucard of Chronode
Powered by a
Sowind gear train
Battle-axe 22k gold ‘mystery’ automatic
winding rotor
Power reserve: 42 hours
Balance
frequency: 28,800bph/4Hz
Number of components:
224
Number of jewels: 30
Engine housed in a water
resistant, stainless steel inner container
Functions/indications:Minutes
and bi-directional jumping hours displayed by reflective sapphire
crystal prism with integrated magnifying lens
Slide to
open/close louvres on case
top
Case:Zirconium with
internal water resistant steel engine container
Slide button to
open/close louvres
Exhaust ports to drain
water
Dimensions: 51.5mm x 49mm x 22.5mm
Number of
components: 80
Water resistance of engine container: 30m / 90’ /
3atm
Sapphire crystals:
Smoked optical grade sapphire crystal with
anti-reflective coating and 20% magnification. Sapphire crystal on back
with anti-reflective treatment on both faces.
Strap &
Buckle:Sculptured rubber strap, titanium tang
buckle