Montblanc Heritage Chronometrie ExoTourbillon Review
Review

Montblanc Heritage Chronometrie ExoTourbillon Review

By KMII · Jan 30, 2018 · 9 replies
KMII
WPS member · Montblanc forum
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KMII provides a quick review of the Montblanc Heritage Chronometrie ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph, a complicated timepiece that combines a one-minute exo-tourbillon with a chronograph and date display. The author highlights the in-house MB R230 caliber and the captivating black aventurine dial. This article offers a detailed look at Montblanc's haute horlogerie offerings beyond the Villeret and 1858 lines.

When we are talking about haute horlogerie from Montblanc, it is most frequently the Villeret and 1858 lines that are being discussed. In addition to those, there are complicated pieces in the Heritage Chronometrie and 4810 lines, too (here: www.watchprosite.com for a summary of some 2017 novelties in the 4810 collection). A while ago I had the opportunity to play with one specimen from the former line, namely the Heritage Chronometrie ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph. 

The piece combines a one minute exo-tourbillon with a chronograph and a date display and is limited to 88 pieces in this rose gold version (three further versions exist - a white gold Vasco da Gama (60 pieces), as well as a WG and RG Vasco da Gama diamond set ones (25 and 28 pieces respectively)). 

The movement powering the watch is a Montblanc MB R230 in-house caliber, which has been designed on the MB R200 architecture of the brand's iconic Nicolas Rieussec line - Montblanc's first in-house chronograph movement. This means an automatic-wind column wheel chronograph with vertical coupling, enirched here with a date pointer display and Montblanc's One minute ExoTourbillon. As opposed to the R200 base caliber the beat rate is 21.600 vph in this iteration and the power reserve 50 hours instead of 72 hours. As is standard with the Nicolas Rieussec based chronographs, there is no central seconds hand but two subdials - one for the 60 seconds, and a second one for the thirty minutes totalizer. As opposed to the standard R200 movement, you do not need to leave the chronograph running to have an ersatz-running seconds - this function is taken on by the tourbillon at 6 o'clock here. The chronograph operation is a monopusher affair, with the pusher being placed at the Nicolas Rieussec typical 8 o'clock position and similarly smooth in operation. The same movement is also used in the TimeWalker ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph.

In addition to the movement, the real USP of the watch is the wonderful black aventurine dial. Definitely something that will captivate you every time you glance at the watch and therefore a real highlight. Darker and perhaps more classical than the blue aventurine in the 4810 ExoTourbillon Slim (here: www.watchprosite.com for more) it sparkles and shimmers and offers a wonderful distraction for when you need it (great fun when playing with light). Black aventurine also appears to be rarer and more difficult to source than the more conventional green, grey, blue, orange, brown or yellow. The ensemble is then completed by a 0,109ct Montblanc cut diamond at the 12 o'clock position.

At the same time, the overall composition remains suitably subdued, so that you can easily use the piece as a dress watch. It is far from dainty at 44mm x 14,79mm (the latter due to the relatively thick movement, at 8,65mm) but wears well even on smaller wrists, irrespective. The lugs on its RG case are not short, they are nicely downturned, though, placing the watch securely on the wearer's wrist. For wearers appreciating a certain heft on their wrists, it will work just fine. 




Comparing the watch to the Vintage Tachydate that was on display at the same time (and is in the same price segment), there are some clear differences. While the size and case finishing on both is comparable, the two most likely appeal to very different buyer segments and there is unlikely to be a lot of cross shopping between the two. The Heritage Chronometrie ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph is bold, where the Vintage Tachydate is subdued, modern in conception, where the other is very traditional. The one offers a visually interesting tourbillon complication, aventurine dial and all the fireworks up front, while the other needs to be turned around for the real charm and the intricate finishing of its MB M16.32 movement to shine through. One is always likely to be noticed, while the other will most certainly fly under the radar - unless you happen to chance upon a watch enthusiast. 

I find it is a good choice for Montblanc to cover both bases and to offer a solution for customers residing in both camps. Feeling more at home in the 'stealthy approach to watches' group myself, I am naturally drawn to the Vintage Tachydate but at the same time appreciate the Heritage Chronometrie ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph for its dedication to modernity. 




Thanks for viewing!

About the Montblanc 1858 Collection Ref. 1858

The Rolex Bubble Back, reference 1858, represents an early example of Rolex's self-winding waterproof wristwatches. This reference is part of the broader Bubble Back family, characterized by its distinctive domed case back designed to accommodate the thicker automatic movement of the era. It showcases Rolex's foundational efforts in developing robust and reliable automatic timepieces for everyday wear, laying groundwork for future Oyster Perpetual models.

This particular reference features an 18k white gold case, measuring 38mm in diameter. It is fitted with a sapphire crystal, protecting a silver dial. The watch is powered by an automatic movement, specifically the Boucheron 1858 caliber, offering a power reserve of 42 hours. The fixed bezel and leather strap complete the watch's classic presentation.

For collectors, the reference 1858 holds interest as an early and relatively rare iteration within the Bubble Back series, especially in white gold. Its larger case size for the period also makes it appealing to modern tastes. The presence of a date complication adds to its functionality, distinguishing it from simpler time-only Bubble Back models and highlighting Rolex's early integration of practical features.

Specifications

Caliber
Boucheron 1858
Case
18k white gold
Diameter
38mm
Dial
Silver
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
AL
Alkiro1
Jan 30, 2018

Nevertheless, I regret that all the sub dials are too concentrated and a too small ExoTourbillon for the case size of this timepiece in my opinion. It’s a little bit like if Montblanc didn’t know which element of its watch they wanted to highlight (Aventurine, Tourbillon, sub date dial...). This dial mainly lacks of “breathing” for me. A better layout and it would have been much much better in my opinion. My two cents. Best wishes Alkiro

KM
KMII
Jan 30, 2018

The overall R200 architecture only allows for a certain layout, I guess. Do you prefer the overall balance of the TimeWalker ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph, which uses the same movement? Thanks for your input, Alkiro!

KM
KMII
Jan 30, 2018

And one easier to solve without a chronograph complication, as shown by the Slim...

TH
TheMadDruid
Jan 30, 2018

Not just thorough, but you make interesting points when you compare the watch under the microscope with others from the same brand; or with similar complications.

KM
KMII
Jan 30, 2018

I will try to make more in that case

MT
MTF
Feb 1, 2018

KMII, Thanks for the review. When I saw the photo, my initial though was: "He should have wiped the dust off the glass," Then, I realised it was not dust on the glass but the cosmic highlights on aventurine dial. I like the Rieussec chronograph layout that works well for that model but adding a tourbillon is distracting. The good news is that the tourbillon does not affect the reading of the chronograph counters. Overall, with that Montblanc Star diamond and the cosmic dust, I think this is a "f

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