KMII presents an insightful look at the Montblanc Star Chrono GMT Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition 100, a significant piece from Montblanc's pre-Villeret era. His post positions this 2006 anniversary model as the pinnacle of Montblanc's watchmaking before the Minerva acquisition, highlighting its complex complications and unique design elements. This exploration offers a valuable historical perspective on Montblanc's evolution in haute horlogerie.
Montblanc itself - in spite of being 111 years old - is a fairly new hand at watch making. At least if you consider the original operation, prior to acquiring Minerva in 2006 (which dates back to 1858). The history started in 1997 and about 10 years later the iconic in house movement for the Nicolas Rieussec formed the next great leap.
At the same time, however, Montblanc was not averse to using high quality movements from outside for their high end pieces - a common practice in the industry up until very recently.
One such watch - the pinnacle of the pre-Villeret era I believe - has been the Star Chrono GMT Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition 100, launched in celebration of the brand's 100th Anniversary in 2006.

The combination of complications was a serious statement of intent, as were individual details, such as the 43 faceted 'Montblanc cut' 0,55ct diamond gracing the crown. The six sided glacier design motif has been applied elsewhere, too, such as for the counterweight on the chronograph seconds hand, or on the GMT subdial.
The watch is definitely a presence on the wrist, with its 43mm diameter (not wearing smaller, even if the lug design ensures it is a comfortable fit even on slimmer wrists) and gold / platinum weight (there were 100 each in WG, YG, RG and 3 in Pt).
The movement is nicely finished but not quite the masterpiece one got used to from the Villeret manufacture in the years since.
The watch makes for an interesting historical piece from Montblanc in my opinion, from an era we rarely discuss. In spite of its intent and definite appeal, events following its introduction, such as the acquisition of Minerva or the launch of the in-house chronograph movement have perhaps overshadowed what is quite a fine watch.
Any owners out here, or people handling one at SIHH 2006 or thereafter? Opinions?
Was definitely a pleasant surprise finding one, in NOS condition and researching its history subsequently.
Thanks for viewing!
About the Montblanc 1858 Collection Ref. 1858
The Rolex Bubble Back, reference 1858, represents an early example of Rolex's self-winding waterproof wristwatches. This reference is part of the broader Bubble Back family, characterized by its distinctive domed case back designed to accommodate the thicker automatic movement of the era. It showcases Rolex's foundational efforts in developing robust and reliable automatic timepieces for everyday wear, laying groundwork for future Oyster Perpetual models.
This particular reference features an 18k white gold case, measuring 38mm in diameter. It is fitted with a sapphire crystal, protecting a silver dial. The watch is powered by an automatic movement, specifically the Boucheron 1858 caliber, offering a power reserve of 42 hours. The fixed bezel and leather strap complete the watch's classic presentation.
For collectors, the reference 1858 holds interest as an early and relatively rare iteration within the Bubble Back series, especially in white gold. Its larger case size for the period also makes it appealing to modern tastes. The presence of a date complication adds to its functionality, distinguishing it from simpler time-only Bubble Back models and highlighting Rolex's early integration of practical features.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Boucheron 1858
- Case
- 18k white gold
- Diameter
- 38mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Montblanc Ref. 1858Collection
The Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph is a limited edition offering within the 1858 collection, distinguished by its complex split-second chronograph complication. This particular reference, limited to 100 pieces, features a unique burgundy dial, setting it apart from other models in the series and appealing to collectors seeking a more exclusive and visually distinct timepiece with advanced horological functions.
The watch is housed in a stainless steel case measuring 44mm in diameter and 15.2mm in thickness. It is fitted with a fixed 18k white gold fluted bezel. The dark burgundy dial, finished with a sunray pattern, complements the case materials. Protecting the dial is a sapphire crystal. The timepiece is powered by the hand-wound MB 16.31 calibre, which measures 38.4 x 8.13 mm, and offers a power reserve suitable for its intricate mechanical functions.
This reference appeals to collectors interested in high-complication chronographs and Montblanc's Minerva heritage. Its limited production run and specific dial color make it a notable variant within the 1858 collection, offering a blend of historical design cues and modern watchmaking. The large dimensions reflect its pocket watch-inspired movement architecture, a characteristic often appreciated by enthusiasts of traditional horology.
Specifications
- Caliber
- MB 16.31
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 44mm
- Dial
- Burgundy
- Water Resist.
- 100m
- Crystal
- Sapphire