Montblanc TimeWalker ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph
Review

Montblanc TimeWalker ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph

By jrwong23 (aka watchthebin) · Jun 5, 2016 · 14 replies
jrwong23 (aka watchthebin)
WPS member · Montblanc forum
14 replies6624 views8 photos
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Jrwong23 initiates a detailed exploration of the Montblanc TimeWalker ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph, highlighting its blend of modern design and haute horology. This first part of his review sets the stage by contextualizing the TimeWalker collection's evolution, emphasizing Montblanc's commitment to innovation alongside its Minerva heritage. He promises a deeper dive into the technical aspects in subsequent installments.

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In recent months, we have enjoyed our discussions on the new Montblanc 1858 collection, where Montblanc’s designers dug deep into the archives of Montblanc and Minerva for inspiration to create the new collection. It is also important to note that Montblanc has also created watches purely from fresh, modern ideas, design and innovation. The TimeWalker collection is one such collection, which, though launched 22 years ago, is still very modern and avant-garde.


The TimeWalker collection features a very distinct Montblanc design-DNA, with its skeletonized horns and innovative materials mix. Since its launch 20 over years ago, the collection has matured with watches ranging from time-only to dual time, chronograph, twin flyback-chronograph and to the very high end of haute horology with Montblanc Villeret’s movements; including the TimeWalker 100 (which can measure up to 1/100th of a second) and the most recently launched Montblanc TimeWalker Pythagore Ultra-Light Concept.


For the month of June, I will share some details on the Montblanc TimeWalker ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph; another high-end TimeWalker, which combined two complications: namely Montblanc’s patented ExoTourbillon with a quick stop-second feature, and the monopusher chronograph from Montblanc’s Nicolas Rieussec collection.



 




This watch focuses on performance and functionality as well as having a very technological, sporty design and appearance. It is not a discreet watch, to say the least, with a strong wrist presence yet not a showy watch per se because it has the substance to back its tough and ā€˜techy’ looks; without ā€˜bling’.  I will share what the watch tries to achieve in terms of performance and technique, in terms of its movement, the case and the dial.




Most Montblanc TimeWalkers have huge wrist presence. The TimeWalker ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph even more so, maintains this presence.



Firstly, a summary on the design code of the watch, as illustrated by the picture below.




The black dial, with dashes of red and white really makes this TimeWalker stand out on the wrist. The animation from the ExoTourbillon, the skeletonized horns of the lugs and the lance-shaped hour and minute hands also add a technical look and feel to the TimeWalker.


The case is very interesting as it is not the same type of case as a regular TimeWalker. The TimeWalker ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph has a three-part case with a unique material mix of titanium, carbon fibre and DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon). The case is made up of a 44 mm diameter, micro-blasted titanium body with skeletonized horns combined with a micro-blasted titanium bezel coated with black DLC and a middle section (case sides) made of carbon fibre. 






The clever combination of titanium and carbon fibre results in a lightweight yet remarkably resistant case and further accentuates the distinctive TimeWalker sporty look. A domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both surfaces makes the black dial much easier to read and for PuristS like us, ease of photography too!


Personally, as I have handled the watch a few times in Singapore (and I know one lucky owner who is getting one), I must say one of the key strength and attraction of this TimeWalker is the innovative mix of materials for the case.
 






The tripartite case combines various materials:

1. The titanium bezel is coated with a layer of scratch-resistant DLC (diamond-like carbon).
2. The case back is crafted from titanium and complemented by an anti-reflective sapphire crystal to allow admiration of its movement.
3. Each timepiece has a unique structure of carbon as titanium sheathed with carbon fibre forms the middle piece of the case (see the side profile in the picture below)
 

On the middle carbon fibre section of the case, Montblanc crafts this sheath as a seamless, complexly structured cocoon rather than merely gluing a carbon fibre shell around the titanium ā€œcarrureā€. This technical information was provided by Montblanc to explain the process:

Several dozen layers of carbon fibre, with the fibres in each layer oriented at 90° to those in the preceding stratum, are fused together with artificial resin at high temperature and a pressure of 10 tons. This produces a compact carbon-fibre block. The case’s round sheath is stamped perpendicularly to the carbon-fibre layers to form a seamless ā€œmonoblockā€ which is then tautly stretched over the titanium middle piece before being clamped into place with two pierced longitudinal titanium brackets that have a sophisticated brushed surface decoration.







I will be sharing more about the dial and strap as well as the Montblanc Manufacture Calibre MB R230 which powers this watch in the next part of my reports.





Stay tuned for the next part!

Cheers
robin

About the Montblanc 1858 Collection Ref. 1858

The Rolex Bubble Back, reference 1858, represents an early example of Rolex's self-winding waterproof wristwatches. This reference is part of the broader Bubble Back family, characterized by its distinctive domed case back designed to accommodate the thicker automatic movement of the era. It showcases Rolex's foundational efforts in developing robust and reliable automatic timepieces for everyday wear, laying groundwork for future Oyster Perpetual models.

This particular reference features an 18k white gold case, measuring 38mm in diameter. It is fitted with a sapphire crystal, protecting a silver dial. The watch is powered by an automatic movement, specifically the Boucheron 1858 caliber, offering a power reserve of 42 hours. The fixed bezel and leather strap complete the watch's classic presentation.

For collectors, the reference 1858 holds interest as an early and relatively rare iteration within the Bubble Back series, especially in white gold. Its larger case size for the period also makes it appealing to modern tastes. The presence of a date complication adds to its functionality, distinguishing it from simpler time-only Bubble Back models and highlighting Rolex's early integration of practical features.

Specifications

Caliber
Boucheron 1858
Case
18k white gold
Diameter
38mm
Dial
Silver
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
KM
KMII
Jun 5, 2016

Have always liked the case design of the Timewalker series but was often less impressed by the movement side. This now seems to get addressed so I am confident that the series has a second spring coming

JR
jrwong23 (aka watchthebin)
Jun 5, 2016

For the TimeWalker collection from what I observe Cheers Robin

KM
KMII
Jun 5, 2016

Would be great! A rare watch where I would accept 42mm

JR
jrwong23 (aka watchthebin)
Jun 5, 2016

But if so, even if not on a TimeWalker line , I will still want it lol! Cheers Robin

MT
MTF
Jun 5, 2016

Thanks for the report. Many years ago, a huge watch collector (huge collection and not huge body ) said to me : "I like the Villeret chronograph movements and in-house hairsprings but I would never buy a watch with the name 'Montblanc' on the dial". I don't know if that person has changed opinion since I left Singapore. It did provoke thought. Now, Montblanc is established in horology and confident enough to combine old-school watchmaking with modern materials science and design. This TimeWalker

M4
M4
Jun 5, 2016

. . . . for the informative report. Very well done. M4

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