Complications
SJX provides an in-depth review of the Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858 Grand Tourbillon Heures Mystérieuses, a watch that commemorates Minerva's 150th anniversary. The author praises its enormous tourbillon and superb finish, while also critically assessing its large 47mm case size. This piece offers a nuanced perspective on Montblanc's high horology ambitions and the future of the Villeret collection.
A few days ago I was fortunate enough to see the Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858 Grand Tourbillon Heures Mystérieuses.
It is a very impressive watch.
The tourbillon is enormous with a 14.50 mm wide balance, this is essentially a pocket watch escapement. It is suspended by a beautifully speculaire finished tourbillon bridge shaped like two figure "8" which represents a double infinity. The styling of the tourbillon bridge is reminiscent of art nouveau, and because it is large, raised and surrounded by space, the tourbillon is stunning. Note the arrowhead logo on the tourbillon, that is the symbol of the original Minerva firm - thank goodness Montblanc didn't use the snowflake logo instead.
Even the odd shape of the case, slightly ovoid with a bulge at 6 o'clock is appealing. The mystery hour time display is an interesting novelty but it does not blow me away like the tourbillon does.
Magnificent as the watch is, and much as I like its look and feel, it is too large. The case is 47 mm in diameter, too large for most wrists. If Montblanc created a watch with a 40 or 42 mm case diameter but retaining the same elegant and huge tourbillon, that would be perfect. An alternative would be a tonneau-shaped or similar case, so that is does not seem to wide.
That being said, the fit and finish of the watch is superb. Aesthetically it is a success, aside from the large size. This watch, from a company that is part of a larger luxury goods brand, is more impressive and serious horology than watches from companies that profess to be pure high horology players.
Given that this is only the fifth model in the Villeret collection, it is particularly impressive. I have to admit it is easy to criticise the company, after all it is the combination of a mass-market pen brand and a revived watch brand that is most famous for the $1500 Pythagore. But I am very positive on the future development of Montblanc Villeret, I will not be surprised if the company confounds critics with future products.
On a related note, future watches from the Villeret collection will no longer have "Pure Mecanique Horlogerie" on the dial. That is a relief, that phrase ranks up there with "Master of Complications" and "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" as one of the most infamous found on a watch dial.
- SJX
This message has been edited by SJX on 2008-11-19 06:40:09
This message has been edited by MTF on 2008-11-23 05:48:04
The Rolex Bubble Back, reference 1858, represents an early example of Rolex's self-winding waterproof wristwatches. This reference is part of the broader Bubble Back family, characterized by its distinctive domed case back designed to accommodate the thicker automatic movement of the era. It showcases Rolex's foundational efforts in developing robust and reliable automatic timepieces for everyday wear, laying groundwork for future Oyster Perpetual models.
This particular reference features an 18k white gold case, measuring 38mm in diameter. It is fitted with a sapphire crystal, protecting a silver dial. The watch is powered by an automatic movement, specifically the Boucheron 1858 caliber, offering a power reserve of 42 hours. The fixed bezel and leather strap complete the watch's classic presentation.
For collectors, the reference 1858 holds interest as an early and relatively rare iteration within the Bubble Back series, especially in white gold. Its larger case size for the period also makes it appealing to modern tastes. The presence of a date complication adds to its functionality, distinguishing it from simpler time-only Bubble Back models and highlighting Rolex's early integration of practical features.
Marking Minerva‘s 150th anniversary: the Grand Tourbillon Heures Mystérieuses from the Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858 Special events deserve suitable recognition. And in recognition of the 150 th anniversary of the company‘s founding and the inauguration of the renovated Institut Minerva headquarters in Villeret, this particular event happens to be the launch of the new Grand Tourbillon Heures Mystérieuses from the Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858 . The name alone will be an indication to
I have noticed a recent (?) trend in watches whereby the leather band is integrated between the lugs in a similar manner to bracelet end-links. I find it.....wrong....aesthetically.
Thus, it is the development of the 'old' Minvera (well, let say the 'intermediate' Minerva under the infamous italian ownership). Thus the watches are impressive for Minerva, the former '1500 $ watch company', but not for Montblanc. The latter decided to (i) utilise the company's infrastructure and know-how, (i) keep the exisiting movements and entire watch designs and (iii) present then with a Montblanc logo. Best, Magnus
The watch itself is not my cup of tea, The oddly-shaped case is not very attractive and not new at all. One of the famous independents introduced that allready and so are the Mysterious hands, why borrowed Montblanc this concept from Cartier and it can be found in the Santos Mysterieuse and clocks from the past. IMHO Montblanc is on the right track with it's collection of watches, but this model is not a + for their imago. Geo
Their range of watches also have a bulge in the case, but to accommodate the balance wheel. However, that brand is new and was only unveiled earlier this year. I do agree with your point that a lot of it is not new. Montblanc is borrowing ideas from other brands like Cartier, and building on the Minerva company which it acquired. While it may be the case that Montblanc is buying legitimacy, at least they are creating an impressive and extremely well-made product. Not the same can be said of othe
The pics are superb and your comments very interesting. I feel mixed emotions. The finishings are great, the originality of the whole watch makes it unique in the industry. But 2 details are a bit annoying for me: - it seems that sometimes it's difficult to read the time but maybe it's just a feeling. - I would like MontBlanc to stop writting the "Pure Mécanique Horlogère" each time "Minerva" is involved... because I don't know what this means in french. Is this caliber "pure" ? And the in-house
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