Montblanc Villeret 1858 Vintage Chronos Review

Mark in Paris · 2012-10-25T04:20:56Z

Mark in Paris reviews Montblanc Villeret 1858 Vintage Pulsographe and Chrono Monopusher Colimaçon. Discover Minerva heritage, finishing, and collector insights.

Mark in Paris

WPS member · Montblanc forum

27 replies6090 views16 photos

Mark in Paris shares his initial skepticism and ultimate surprise regarding Montblanc's foray into high-end watchmaking. His detailed review of the Villeret 1858 Vintage Pulsographe and Chrono Monopusher Colimaçon offers a candid assessment of their craftsmanship, finishing, and the brand's evolving legitimacy in horology.

27 collectors discussing this on the WatchProSite forumJoin the Conversation →

Hi everyone,

I just had recently the opportunity to discover some MB timepieces.

To start with, I'd like to say that, as I always knew MB for their "writing instruments", I didn't pay any attention to their new arrival in the watch sector. To me, it was just another luxury brand trying to exploit the market with integrating a branded ETA-based watch with no horological interest. And no legitimacy.

Furthermore, when some of these brands (that are not traditionnal watchmakers) order a complicated piece from watchmakers, I always thought (as it often happens to be true) it was a one-shot try, performed for marketing and image purposes.

For me, one try, even if interesting, doesn't make the legitimacy to be called a real watchmaking brand.

It started when I heard about their nice tourbillon with their balance wheel's double spring or the Metamorphosis non long ago.

So I thought recently I would just go to visit their boutique in order to maybe discover something interesting.

I like technical performing, high craftmanship mastery, high finishing standards, history etc ...

And this is finally what I could find (to my great surprise I must say) after trying on and exploring the Villeret 1858 Vintage Pulsographe and the Villeret 1858 Vintage chrono Colimaçon.

I could check the beautiful finishing (and I'm very demanding on that point), the technic, the materials selected etc ...

Here are some ~~crappy~~ pictures and I just encourage you to give it a chance once, if you come by one of them. There are some beautiful pics already on the forum if you want, especially for the movement which is one of the main strengh of these watches.

In these reviews, you will also find more technical details.

Pulsographe (WG - white dial or RG - black dial, Enamel "grand feu", 58 pces LE each, 39.5mm x 12mm, 18000 vph, 60 h RdM)

I really love it. It has nearly all I would ask for (for this complication). No real flaws to me.

What I would regret (personnal taste inside):
- The white enamel dial is maybe too white. I would have prefered something more ivory. The RG with black dial must be perfect.
- Maybe the MB "flower mark" on the crown's top. Too recognizable.
- Psychological difficulty to sign for the Montblanc name yet, at this price level, compared to strong competitors.

Chrono Monopusher Colimaçon (WG-black dial or RG- white dial, 58 pces LE each, Enamel "grand feu", 43.5mm x 13.5mm, 18000 vph, 55 h RdM)

I love it too. Great great finishing, the Minerva inheritance (as for the Pulso.), nice chrono complication, very nice enamel dial ...

The big movement helps to really see through the hole caliber construction (zoomed in compared to a Dato for example). Very nice.

On detail I noticed (difficult to explain): a very very nice winding feeling. The "ticks" are further from each other, the angle between 2 ticks is maybe twice as much as a normal watch for example. As the spring resistance is easily felt with the fingers when turning the crown, it brings a very enjoyable feeling. Something to be tried.

What I would regret (personnal taste inside):
- Maybe too big for me. And the lugs are quite long (especially on my little 16mm wrist)
- The crown with the monopusher inside is mybe too long. This detail wouldn't stop me though.

And ...
- Maybe the MB "flower mark" on the crown's top. Too recognizable.
- Psychological difficulty to sign for the Montblanc name, at this price level, compared to strong competitors.

Both, side by side

Sorry for the pics, the lights were too bright and coming from everywhere!

But just for you to compare the sizes (the Pulsographe is perfect).

To conclude, it was a very very nice surpise and I will follow this brand in the future. I strongly encourage you to do so for their high-end watches.

Cheers,

Mark

This message has been edited by Boréale on 2012-10-25 04:29:20

About the Montblanc 1858 Collection Ref. 1858

The Rolex Bubble Back, reference 1858, represents an early example of Rolex's self-winding waterproof wristwatches. This reference is part of the broader Bubble Back family, characterized by its distinctive domed case back designed to accommodate the thicker automatic movement of the era. It showcases Rolex's foundational efforts in developing robust and reliable automatic timepieces for everyday wear, laying groundwork for future Oyster Perpetual models.

This particular reference features an 18k white gold case, measuring 38mm in diameter. It is fitted with a sapphire crystal, protecting a silver dial. The watch is powered by an automatic movement, specifically the Boucheron 1858 caliber, offering a power reserve of 42 hours. The fixed bezel and leather strap complete the watch's classic presentation.

For collectors, the reference 1858 holds interest as an early and relatively rare iteration within the Bubble Back series, especially in white gold. Its larger case size for the period also makes it appealing to modern tastes. The presence of a date complication adds to its functionality, distinguishing it from simpler time-only Bubble Back models and highlighting Rolex's early integration of practical features.

Specifications

Caliber: Boucheron 1858

Case: 18k white gold

Diameter: 38mm

Dial: Silver

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

The Montblanc star on the crown, while a brand identifier, can be a psychological hurdle for collectors who primarily associate Montblanc with pens and leather goods, potentially detracting from its watchmaking legitimacy at high price points.
A contributor initially shared the author's reservations about Montblanc's watchmaking credentials but was swayed by the 'grand feu' vintage chronographs, though they find the vintage dial aesthetic with enamel historically inconsistent for chronographs of that era.
The use of a mother-of-pearl inlay on the Villeret crown is unusual for high-priced watches and might 'cheapen' the look, suggesting a stamped or relief logo could be more appropriate for the high-end collection.
The author inquires about the fragility of enamel dials, specifically whether damage occurs during chronograph use or from everyday shocks, highlighting a practical concern for potential owners.
Montblanc Villeret watches, particularly the chronographs, are considered exceptional in haute horlogerie savoir-faire and can even set a new lofty standard when compared to brands like Lange & Söhne, known for their superb finishing and manufacturing techniques.
The Villeret collection's movement finishing is considered among the best, placing it at the head of its class.
The winding mechanism of the Monopusher Colimaçon offers a unique and enjoyable tactile experience, characterized by distinct 'ticks' and easily felt spring resistance.
The Montblanc Villeret chronographs represent the brand's rich history with chronographs, with the larger monopusher enamel dial version being particularly elegant due to its movement.

The Discussion

amanico

Oct 25, 2012

Here is a third one, for your consideration.

The P 10. 43 mm case, but a splendid version. I have to disagree a bit on what you said about the coaxial monopusher, I find it very nicely integrated, and with the enamel dial one of my favourite. The Black monopusher you showed is highly desirable, too. Best, and thanks for your post. Nicolas

Mark in Paris

Oct 25, 2012

Yes another version for this P10

I discovered it while searching posts about this watch on the forum. A very nice choice as a P10 watch. I was more willing to look at WG cases but I think I'll go to have a look to the RG/black dial Pulsographe too when I have time. Thanks for your input Nicolas. Cheers, Mark

nilomis

Oct 25, 2012

The black dialed one is very interesting ...

Boréale, Thank you for this great introduction. I know that MB will never accept but this white flower on the pusher should go or to be more subtle. I have watches from several brands and most have the crown signed but subtle. Besides of that, it looks a great chronograph using a beautiful movement. Cheers, Nilo

Mark in Paris

Oct 25, 2012

Something to be seen

Yes Nilo, it's a really stunning movement and I'm sure it would please you as well. Concerning the MB mark I was thinking about the same: I would also have prefered engraved or forged process. Nothing is perfect :p Best, Mark

patrick_y

Oct 25, 2012

Great pieces...

Mark, I'm so happy to hear you have tried these on your wrist. These are truly the best watches, in terms of haute horlogerie savoire faire, one can buy from any large brand. I personally would buy a chronograph as well, as this is the most representative watch in Minerva's rich history with chronographs. I would choose the larger one with the enamel dial and the monopusher at 3 o'clock (on the crown) because this movement is perhaps one of the most elegant movements in the world. Consider the P

Mark in Paris

Oct 25, 2012

I see you're as excited as I am

and it is trully a beautiful finish. But I would not compare to Lange yet as I would need more time to (as a Lange as well :p) My favorite as of today would maybe be the RG/black dial Pulsographe (that I still have to see in the flesh) and I agree with you on the fact that I would prefer to have the pusher on the crown (even if a bit less longer than on the "Colimaçon" version though). Thanks for your enthusiasm! Cheers, Mark