Montblanc Villeret Chronograph Grand Feu Enamel Review
Review

Montblanc Villeret Chronograph Grand Feu Enamel Review

By jrwong23 (aka watchthebin) · Feb 24, 2016 · 15 replies
jrwong23 (aka watchthebin)
WPS member · Montblanc forum
15 replies6196 views10 photos
f 𝕏 in 💬 ✉ 🔗

jrwong23's second part of his owner's review on the Montblanc Villeret Chronograph Grand Feu Enamel offers a deep dive into the exquisite craftsmanship and unique features that make this timepiece a cherished travel companion. His appreciation for its traditional finishing, rare black grand feu enamel dial, and hunter case back highlights its exceptional value within its price range.

In Part Two of my owner’s review of my Montblanc Villeret Chronograph Grand Feu Enamel, I will be sharing some very fine and exquisite features found on this watch and why it is my favorite lifestyle companion, especially when I travel for business. This monopusher chronograph from Montblanc Villeret has levels of traditional finishing and craftsmanship I personally adore very much and can’t find all in one timepiece at the same price range, from other brands. For example, it is quite difficult to find a highly-finished,A;mso-fareast-language: EN-US;mso-bidi-language:AR-SA"> hand-wound traditional chronograph with a grand feu enamel dial and a nicely-crafted hunter case back, in many other high-end brands (much less one limited to only 8 pieces).


Let’s start with the dial, the part of the watch we see the most. The dial of the watch is one of my favorite features of this watch as it is my only watch with a grand feu enamel dial. And I especially like it as it is black enamel, which is rarer and more difficult (from what I read and heard from a few collectors) to produce than white enamel.




The above is a picture I took some months ago.  No matter how hard I try, my pictures do not do the dial justice. The dial when under natural sunlight, looks like liquid black oil, which gives the dial a lot of depth. I especially like the black E;mso-fareast-language: EN-US;mso-bidi-language:AR-SA">“wet look” of the grand feu enamel. The two sub-dials (chronograph 30 minute counter and sub-seconds) are carved into the solid gold dial, and then the E;mso-fareast-language:EN-US;mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">“wells” of the sub-dials are filled with enamel (this makes the baking of the dial trickier too!). This provides more depth than a flat grand feu enamel dial (see the Montblanc Villeret Pulsograph below which also has a black grand feu enamel dial but the sub dials are on the same flat surface of the gold dial.






The photos shows three generations of Montblanc watches featuring calibre 13.21:


Did I mention the dial is crafted from solid gold? This is another high end feature of the watch which I love a lot and for the record, all dials from the Montblanc Collection Villeret are crafted in solid gold.

 




A macro shot of the enamel dial. You can see minor bubbles on the dial, which actually makes every dial unique and showcases the tradition of grand feu enameling very well. The bubbles are not visible unless I use a macro lens to view them and I don’t find them imperfections, rather a reminder to me that my dial is unique and individually crafted for me.

The main problem I have with the dial is that it is not very legible under poor lighting, very similar to many watches with black dials and silver colored hands without lume.


The next feature I love about this watch is the case design and construction. Of course, the old school hunter back is a huge plus.




The hunter back remains a secret unless you know where the hidden catch is. All owners of these traditional Montblanc Villeret watches will appreciate the exclusive opportunity to appreciate their beautiful Minerva movements in private. Mr Cabbidu’s signature on the hunter back will always remind me of this grand master of watchmaking and his contributions to the Montblanc Villeret manufacture.





To be honest, this is a favorite activity in my watch collecting hobby, to open up this hunter case back and admire the calibre 13.21. smile
I hope that Montblanc continues with this tradition of hunter case backs in their Villeret collection (which I believe many PuristS love), as recent references seem to have dropped this feature.

The case of the watch is one of the most finely crafted watch cases I have ever seen, with many fine details incorporated into its construction. The case is made of 18k solid white gold as per the traditions in Villeret where all their watches are crafted in precious metals (unless there are bespoke projects undertaken by reclusive clients that I am not aware of).




A macro shot of the side profile of the case. A beautifully crafted concave bezel and beveled lugs. The monopusher button is also firm and a joy to press on.



The engraving on the case back, reminding owners that each Villeret watch from Montblanc is extremely limited and exquisite, to be cherished by its owners.







I also appreciate the very thick sapphire glass on the watch. See picture below.



One reason why I like modern watches is the scratch resistance property of sapphire crystals. But I also like the thickness of plexiglass found in many vintage watches which give the glass a 3D effect, rising above the bezel and case. Like many models in the Montblanc Villeret collection, the manufacture does not skimp on very thick sapphire crystal glass when they cover the dial of the watch. I love this side profile view.


On the wrist, the clever design of the leather wrapping around the gap between the lugs also helps the watch to wear smaller as lug overhang over smaller wrists will be concealed well. The main complaint I have over the wearing of this watch is that the leather strap is very thin, too thin for such a thick chronograph watch with a hunter back. I would prefer a thicker strap from Montblanc.

I will wrap up with Part Three with the calibre 13.21 and the monopusher function and operation of this watch (it is super smooth and I dare say smoother than my Lange Datograph!) and share some of my travel and work experience with this watch as my companion. Believe me, on those tough days and long business trips, this watch has helped me stay happy and motivated!



A glass of champagne and my Montblanc Villeret on the plane help me relax and prepare for a long and stressful business trip.

In Part Three I will also write some personal thoughts on these older series Montblanc Villeret watches vs the newer non-Villeret watches cased with Montblanc Villeret movements such as the Heritage Spirit Pulsograph (calibre 13.21) and the 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter (calibre 16.29).

Cheers
robin 

About the Montblanc 1858 Collection Ref. 1858

The Rolex Bubble Back, reference 1858, represents an early example of Rolex's self-winding waterproof wristwatches. This reference is part of the broader Bubble Back family, characterized by its distinctive domed case back designed to accommodate the thicker automatic movement of the era. It showcases Rolex's foundational efforts in developing robust and reliable automatic timepieces for everyday wear, laying groundwork for future Oyster Perpetual models.

This particular reference features an 18k white gold case, measuring 38mm in diameter. It is fitted with a sapphire crystal, protecting a silver dial. The watch is powered by an automatic movement, specifically the Boucheron 1858 caliber, offering a power reserve of 42 hours. The fixed bezel and leather strap complete the watch's classic presentation.

For collectors, the reference 1858 holds interest as an early and relatively rare iteration within the Bubble Back series, especially in white gold. Its larger case size for the period also makes it appealing to modern tastes. The presence of a date complication adds to its functionality, distinguishing it from simpler time-only Bubble Back models and highlighting Rolex's early integration of practical features.

Specifications

Caliber
Boucheron 1858
Case
18k white gold
Diameter
38mm
Dial
Silver
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

Advertisement
The Discussion
AM
amanico
Feb 24, 2016

Ok, I got it, hunter case back, enamel dial, and maybe more sophisticated case, compared to the 1858 Tachymeter, or the Spirit Pulsograph. Now I wonder if the decoration of the movement is at another level, compared to its " brothers ". Maybe you will tell us something in Part Three? Best, nicolas

HO
Horologically_minded
Feb 24, 2016

That's says a lot! Beautiful piece. Looking forward to part III=) J

KM
KMII
Feb 24, 2016

The hunter case back, the thick sapphire, the dial, case, all really exquisite. And one sees the happy, proud owner in every sentence of your review - the way it should be Makes it much nicer and more personal... One thing I have been wondering about is the leather cover between the lugs. The only other manufacturer I have seen use it is Minerva. Do you know the reason / design background? Does the bit get exchanged with the strap? Enjoy your travels and as said, looking forward to part 3!

MA
Mark in Paris
Feb 25, 2016

I wish you to keep on enjoying it as much as you already do! Thank you for the great reading. Cheers, Mark

JR
jrwong23 (aka watchthebin)
Feb 25, 2016

A calibre 13.21 and 16.29 is the same, whether housed in a Villeret or non-Villeret case/collection. That is why we can argue the 1858 Chrono Tachymeter and the Heritage Spirit Pulsograph are such great value. Of course, for those who prefer higher end case/dial and overall craftsmanship and exclusivity (lesser numbers produced), then the Villeret chronos (whilst still available) are another option too Cheers robin

JR
jrwong23 (aka watchthebin)
Feb 25, 2016

Not the winding but the chrono pusher feel. I will cover that in Part 3 Cheers robin

Advertisement

Continue the conversation

This thread is active on the Montblanc forum with 15 replies. Share your knowledge with fellow collectors.

Join the Discussion →