Jrwong23 (aka watchthebin) offers the third installment of his owner's review of the Montblanc Villeret Chronograph Grand Feu Enamel. This segment delves into the intricacies of the Minerva Calibre 13.21 movement, building on previous comparisons with the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph. His detailed insights provide valuable context for understanding the unique appeal of this high-end chronograph.
Finally! I now have the time to complete Part 3
of my owner’s review on my Montblanc Villeret Chronograph Grand Feu Enamel.
Apologies for the delay as I was in back-to-back business travels, followed by
a vacation last week with the family. I promise you that Part 3 will be the
most exciting part, especially for chronograph lovers! 
I once did a comparison of my Montblanc Villeret
chronograph with my Lange Datograph and you can read my comparison of the two
high end chronograph watches here:
(note: I have since sold my PT Datograph to fund
my current pink gold black dial Datograph as I prefer the warmer combination of
pink gold with black dial)
I won’t repeat my comparison of the two “kings or at least princes of highly-finished
chronographs” as you can read my previous review. To summarize, the Datograph
is like a sexy trophy wife with looks that excite especially the golden patina
of its lavishly decorated movement, with bridges of German silver, along with
generous use of blued screws and gold chatons – one can easily appreciate the
Datograph’s movement and admire its beauty.
The Minerva calibre 13.21 (see above) is what I
will describe more as a virtuous wife. The movement bridges are also
constructed in German silver, as per all movements from Montblanc Villeret but
they are rhodium plated so the golden patina does not show. There are also no
blued screws although gold chatons are used for decoration. The net effect is
we do not get a movement that shouts for attention on first look but if you
admire the movement carefully using a loupe, the inner angles and decoration, the
V-bridge, the signature Minerva arrow, all contribute to a visual treat, on par
with the Datograph’s finishing. To be honest, I prefer the details on the
calibre 13.21 over my Datograph slightly – see some of the details captured in
my macro shots below.
The beautifully finished V-bridge, which is
found in all Montblanc Villeret chronographs. This V-bridge is crafted from
German silver too, something not everyone knows.
The Minerva arrow – a detail I love and that
makes Minerva movements so charming. Nico, please stop saying it is the devil’s
tail! It’s the Minerva Arrow!
One thing I like to compare on chronographs is
the pusher feel. Both the Datograph and the Montblanc Villeret chronograph have
very smooth and soft pusher feel (by comparison to other chronographs), so I
will say they are on par here. To nitpick, let’s also look at the consistency
of pusher feel for all 3 actions – start, stop and reset. Here, I will say my
Montblanc Villeret is a tad more consistent than my Datograph – all 3 action of
start, stop and reset on the monopusher calibre 13.21 feels exactly the same.
The Datograph has a slightly harder start, a softer stop and a softer reset
too. But this is only on pusher feel, something only a WIS like me will bother.
To be fair, the Datograph has a flyback mechanism and also an exact changing
minute chronograph counter and these are technical details the Montblanc
Villeret lacks.
Some of you will also know that this Montblanc
Villeret is my favorite travel watch. I will let the pictures below speak for
themselves. Other than the beautiful movement, which can entertain me a lot on
the planes and in hotel rooms, the black enamel dial, the hunter back and the
fact that it is a very discreet watch (Montblanc brand and white gold do not
attract the wrong attention) are all good reasons why this is my favorite
travel watch. Besides, it is also very versatile on business trips, formal
enough to wear with a suit and casual enough for the weekends in jeans.
Maiden trip to India. This was my second or third week owning
this watch and I couldn’t even part with it for a few days hence I wore it to
India in Jul/Aug 2013.
Trip to Paris in 2014 – first time meeting
Nicolas and Fx on that trip.Very recent trip to London in Feb 2016. The watch
is my faithful companion on these long haul flights.
On my wrist in Madrid. The thick sapphire glass
reminds me of those vintage plexiglass crystals.
Other than business travels, the watch is also a
faithful companion for me at work.
Before a long and tiring conference call.
And on the weekends, dressed down with casual
clothes. It is indeed a very versatile watch. Finally, I would like to address a topic which
perhaps is senstive to some of the current Montblanc Villeret owners. Up until
2014, Minerva movements were exclusively used in Montblanc Collection Villeret
watches. In SIHH 2014, the Heritage Spirit Pulsograph was launched, limited to
90 pieces, with the monopusher calibre 13.21, i.e. the same calibre in my
watch.
As a Villeret owner, how do I feel about this
move? Initially, I wasn’t that happy to be honest and some of my fellow
moderators on PuristSPro namely Nicolas, Fx and Mike will know that. I felt
that this will make the Montblanc Villeret calibres less exclusive. However, I
did some comparisons and noticed that the watches in the Montblanc Villeret
collection are still in a league much higher than the regular Montblanc
collections, even if they house Villeret movements (eg in the Heritage Spirit
Pulsograph and the more recent 1858 Tachymeter Chronograph with the calibre
16.29).
Here are some of the differences I observed:
1. Watches in the Villeret collection all have
solid gold dials. The regular Montblanc watches do not.
2. Many of the Montblanc Villerets have grand feu
enamel dials too. This is not the case for the regular Montblanc watches.
3. The case construction of the Villeret watches
are always in precious metal and many of them have the secret hunter back like
mine.
4. All Montblanc Villeret watches use solid gold
hands (or blued steel). Regular Montblanc watches, even in gold cases,
typically use gold plated hands (or blued steel)
5. The collection Villeret watches are either piece
unique/bespoke, limited to 8 or 18 (no more LE 58 in recent years). The
Heritage Spirit Pulsograph is LE 90 and the 1858 Tachymeter is LE 100 in steel
and LE 100 in red gold. Hence the Villeret watches are still a lot more
exclusive.
6. Villeret collection watches in recent years only
focus on grand complications (ExoTourbillon, split second chronograph with
Tourbillon, Metamorphosis II, etc).
The above observations reassured me that
Montblanc is still committed to making the Villeret collection highly
exclusive. Hence as a Montblanc Villeret owner, I now feel this is a good thing
– to own a chronograph watch in a Villeret case!
Of course, I am also happy to say that without
the change in direction, I would never be able to purchase the watch below....
The 1858 Tachymeter Chronograph in steel with
the lovely blue dial and Villeret calibre 16.29! Nico has received his in
Hamburg and I should be getting mine in Singapore in April! The calibre 16.29
will be a fantastic big brother movement to my calibre 13.21. I am patiently
waiting for it to arrive in the next few weeks.
This is the end of my three part review of my
Montblanc Villeret Chronograph grand feu enamel watch. I hope you like the
review!
Cheers
robin
This message has been edited by jrwong23 on 2016-03-23 05:51:02
About the Montblanc 1858 Collection Ref. 1858
The Rolex Bubble Back, reference 1858, represents an early example of Rolex's self-winding waterproof wristwatches. This reference is part of the broader Bubble Back family, characterized by its distinctive domed case back designed to accommodate the thicker automatic movement of the era. It showcases Rolex's foundational efforts in developing robust and reliable automatic timepieces for everyday wear, laying groundwork for future Oyster Perpetual models.
This particular reference features an 18k white gold case, measuring 38mm in diameter. It is fitted with a sapphire crystal, protecting a silver dial. The watch is powered by an automatic movement, specifically the Boucheron 1858 caliber, offering a power reserve of 42 hours. The fixed bezel and leather strap complete the watch's classic presentation.
For collectors, the reference 1858 holds interest as an early and relatively rare iteration within the Bubble Back series, especially in white gold. Its larger case size for the period also makes it appealing to modern tastes. The presence of a date complication adds to its functionality, distinguishing it from simpler time-only Bubble Back models and highlighting Rolex's early integration of practical features.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Boucheron 1858
- Case
- 18k white gold
- Diameter
- 38mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Montblanc Ref. 1858Collection
The Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph is a limited edition offering within the 1858 collection, distinguished by its complex split-second chronograph complication. This particular reference, limited to 100 pieces, features a unique burgundy dial, setting it apart from other models in the series and appealing to collectors seeking a more exclusive and visually distinct timepiece with advanced horological functions.
The watch is housed in a stainless steel case measuring 44mm in diameter and 15.2mm in thickness. It is fitted with a fixed 18k white gold fluted bezel. The dark burgundy dial, finished with a sunray pattern, complements the case materials. Protecting the dial is a sapphire crystal. The timepiece is powered by the hand-wound MB 16.31 calibre, which measures 38.4 x 8.13 mm, and offers a power reserve suitable for its intricate mechanical functions.
This reference appeals to collectors interested in high-complication chronographs and Montblanc's Minerva heritage. Its limited production run and specific dial color make it a notable variant within the 1858 collection, offering a blend of historical design cues and modern watchmaking. The large dimensions reflect its pocket watch-inspired movement architecture, a characteristic often appreciated by enthusiasts of traditional horology.
Specifications
- Caliber
- MB 16.31
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 44mm
- Dial
- Burgundy
- Water Resist.
- 100m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
