
nitediver's report from Baselworld 2014 introduces H. Moser & Cie's new Venturer collection, marking a significant shift in the brand's product strategy. This article provides a detailed overview of the Venturer's design, its place within the newly reorganized Endeavour collection, and the community's initial reactions to Moser's evolving aesthetic and nomenclature.
H. Moser & Cie @ Baselworld 2014 – Part 1 – The New Venturer
H. Moser & Cie @ Baselworld 2014 – Part 1 – The New Venturer
I visited the H. Moser Lounge at the Ramada – as usual stylish and refined but this year with a new design, following the renewed Corporate Design that was introduced last year.
The big news this year is a arrival called the Venturer. All existing models so far are now grouped under the collection “Endeavour”, so for example the Perpetual 1 is now called the Endeavour Perpetual calendar. As well part of the now called Endeavour collection are the Dual Time, the Moon Phase, as well as the former Mayu (now called Endeavour small seconds) and Monard (now Endeavour centre seconds resp. Big Date). The tonneau shaped Henry double hairspring has been dropped. '
COLLECTION OVERVIEW – ENDEAVOUR
· Endeavour Perpetual Calendar – 6 references in white gold, rose gold and platinum
· Endeavour Moon – 2 references in rose gold and platinum
· Endeavour Dual Time – 2 references in rose gold and platinum
· Endeavour Big Date – 3 references in rose and white gold
· Endeavour Centre Seconds – 7 references in rose and white gold
· Endeavour Small Seconds – 7 references in red, rose and white gold
· Endeavour Special Editions – 5 references
More important that the renaming of the collections is the new model, the Venturer. I was told that the former Mayu will not be replaced – despite the new venture being as well a small second three hand model.
Venturer small seconds
The Venturer Collection features a new in-house manufacture movement, the Calibre HMC 327, with three days power reserve and a power reserve indication of the backside of the movement. I am fond of this solution since it keeps the dial very clean while still providing the important reserve indication.
The new movement includes state-of-the art technology in the form of a silicon anchor with ruby pallets and a silicon escape wheel. Silicon is anti-magnetic and confers low-friction; benefits which cannot be ignored. . The in-house Straumann Hairspring® features a hand-applied Breguet overcoil, enhancing isochronism. The balance wheel includes gold screws facilitating precise poising of the balance.
Technical data of the movement
· In-house hand-wound Calibre HMC 327
· Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14 ¼ lignes
· Height: 4.4 mm
· Frequency: 18’000 vib/h
· 28 jewels
· Power reserve: minimum 3 days
· Hacking seconds
· Moser teeth for all wheels and pinions
· Original Straumann® hairspring with stabilised Breguet overcoil
Case
· 18-carat red gold, three-part
· Diameter: 39.0 mm, height: 12.5 mm
· Curved sapphire crystal
· See-through sapphire crystal case-back
· Screw-in crown adorned with an “M”
Dials
· Red gold fumé, ardoise or argenté with sunburst pattern
· Appliqué indexes
· 18-carat red gold hands
Here is the red gold version with the argenté dial (silver). The bezel and the lugs are much slimmer than the ones of the Mayu. The idices are similar, however the “12” of the Mayu has been dropped and replaced by a double index. A clean and good solution.
Domed sapphire crystal. I like the curved resp. sculptured case. Very sensual and elegant.
The dial is curved and so are the hands
Movement side (movement decoration in prototype fashion). The movement features a silicon anchor with ruby pallets and a silicon escape wheel, while the movement of the Mayu has an anchor and an anchor wheel made of gold.
The Venturer small seconds is available in the following versions:
· Reference 2327-0401, red gold model, red gold fumé dial, brown strap
· Reference 2327-0402, red gold model, ardoise dial, brown strap
· Reference 2327-0400, red gold model, argenté dial, brown strap
Solid gold buckle.
Finally a wrist shot of the Venturer. The hands at 12 o’clock is a coincidence….it was indeed noon when I took the picture.
Overall a very nice new model that is consistent to the high-end watches of Moser, however in a more modern, fresh look. I was told that the prices for the venture will be a notch above the Mayu.
The name Venturer Small Seconds promises other derivate in the same case and with the same base movement - a center second would certainly be logical and fitting the clean dial very well.
I could have time to take pictures of the other dial versions (ardoise and red gold fumee dial) so I attach some pictures of the press release.
Red gold fumÄ— dial
ardoise (slate) grey
ardoise (slate) grey
What is your opinion on Moser’s fresh take on the small seconds?
Which version is your favourite?
Best,
Stefan
De Bethune DB25 Reference DB25
The DB25 represents De Bethune's entry in the 44.5mm manual-wind category, distinguished by its silver dial configuration within the DB25 series. This reference launched in 2006 and continues the brand's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie complications.
The 44.5mm case is crafted from 18k white gold with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 30 meters. The manual-winding caliber DB2105 movement provides a substantial 120-hour power reserve. The watch features a leather strap attachment.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking De Bethune's technical approach to timekeeping in a precious metal case. The extended power reserve and manual-wind operation position it for enthusiasts who appreciate hands-on interaction with their timepieces. The 44.5mm sizing places it in contemporary proportions within the independent watchmaking segment.
I can't quite see from the pictures but the dial looks recessed like a volcano? Aesthetically this does not work for me. I much prefer the flat dials of the old Mayu and Monard. How do you feel about this? Dean
I recently acquired the Monard (erm...Endeavour) Big Date and Monard (oiy...Endeavour!) Centre Seconds. I very much like the shape of the case on those. This appears to be a more svelt version of it. I'd think the 39mm will be an ideal case size since that wisp of a bezel will yield a vast visible dial surface which I imagine will appear larger than it's spec would suggest. That domed crystal has a handsome vintage look to it. Did you notice much glare from its form? I do wonder whether it will
...with a flat center disc, and the outer ring with indices sloped downward, as was used on some Omega and other pieces from 50s and 60s.
I really love this simplicity, the depth of the seconds sub-dial is fantastic. Do you know if there will be a white metal Venturer? Cheers Francois from Down Under
I am not sure it looks like a volcano, I would say rather not. Of course this is very personal. I liked it since it adds an interesting element to the dial without loosing its clean dial. You have to see it on your wrist, I guess, to come to a good judgment. Best Stefan
...and you are right, it adds an interesting vintage element to the watch. Stefan
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