H. Moser & Cie Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue

samwan · 2022-02-10T01:16:02Z

Explore the H. Moser & Cie Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel with collector samwan. Discover its unique enamel dial, champlevé case, and HMC 800 movement.

samwan

WPS member · Independents forum

38 replies5263 views6 photos

Samwan, a respected member of the WatchProSite community, returns from a hiatus with an in-depth look at his latest acquisition: the H. Moser & Cie Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel. His post not only showcases the watch's exquisite details through personal photography but also provides valuable insights into its design philosophy and technical specifications, offering a collector's perspective on this limited-edition timepiece.

After nearly a year of hibernation (some of you may know why), I am back on the acquisition trail. This one caught my eye when the news was announced last year. I quickly checked with my AD and placed a deposit.

Delivery of the timepiece was promised last November but was delayed due to difficulty in the production of the enamel dial. Very understandable, so I waited patiently. Then I got a call from the AD yesterday. Voila...

The watch was launched to commemorate the 15th anniversary of its flagship complication...well....sort of...because the Perpetual 1 was first introduced in 2005.

Contrary to the 10th anniversary model (which looked more like a pocket watch with a strap), this one has the usual clean design - spade-shaped hands, instantaneous date, no sub dials and a date that can be easily moved forwards and backwards. Particularly noteworthy is the reduced leaf-shaped hand for the month indicator which seems to imply that it is not as critical as the date.

As to be expected, the dial houses blue grand feu enamel, but with a graduated finish that darkens towards the edges (the pictures are not doing justice). The Roman numerals (which I like a lot) plus the railway track are departures from the brand's popular "Concept" series.

What is also unusual is the enameled case band, engraved with guilloche then covered with enamel - employing a technique known as champleve...

The watch houses the HMC 800 movement. It is manually wound and has a frequency of 18,000 beats/minute (2.5 Hz). The watch is limited to 20 pieces but is not numbered.

Note the leap year indicator at the back. The watch is 42 mm in diameter and 12.6 mm in height. Case is made of 18k white gold and weighs quite substantially.

A mandatory wrist shot, against the backdrop of a new painting (Pomegranate by Wu Guanzhong, my favorite artist)

Apologies for the hastily taken smart phone shots. I will ask my photographer friend to take some nicer ones in due course.

Sam

About the De Bethune DB25 Ref. DB25

De Bethune DB25 Reference DB25

The DB25 represents De Bethune's entry in the 44.5mm manual-wind category, distinguished by its silver dial configuration within the DB25 series. This reference launched in 2006 and continues the brand's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie complications.

The 44.5mm case is crafted from 18k white gold with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 30 meters. The manual-winding caliber DB2105 movement provides a substantial 120-hour power reserve. The watch features a leather strap attachment.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking De Bethune's technical approach to timekeeping in a precious metal case. The extended power reserve and manual-wind operation position it for enthusiasts who appreciate hands-on interaction with their timepieces. The 44.5mm sizing places it in contemporary proportions within the independent watchmaking segment.

Specifications

Caliber: DB2105

Case: 18k White Gold

Diameter: 44.5 mm

Dial: Silver

Water Resist.: 30m

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

The blue grand feu enamel dial, with its graduated finish, offers exceptional depth and visual serenity, particularly when viewed in person, despite the challenges of capturing its full beauty in photographs.
The watch's design, featuring a leap year indicator on the case back, a reduced leaf-shaped hand for the month, and a bi-directional date, exemplifies Moser's ability to present complex information with tasteful simplicity and a poetic appearance.
The enameled case band, engraved with guilloché and covered with enamel using the champlevé technique, is a particularly interesting and unique design element that distinguishes this reference.
The 'au natural' smartphone photos, despite the author's apologies, are appreciated by some community members for providing a more realistic and 'in-person' characteristic of the watch.
The H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar is widely regarded by collectors as one of the best perpetual calendars on the market, especially with its classic aesthetic and enamel dial.
The author notes a personal shift towards minimalist, time-only watches, making this Perpetual Calendar an exception to his current collecting preferences, highlighting its unique appeal.

The Discussion

Spencer Karrington

Feb 10, 2022

This is one of my fav watches from the brand!!! This is an overall great watch, lovely details and great complication!! I also like these "bad" photos because i feel it has a much more realistic and in person characteristic! Thanks for sharing and congrats on the new purcahse

samwan

Feb 10, 2022

I haven't experienced such excitement for a long time 🙂

samwan

Feb 10, 2022

Watches with enamel dials and Roman indices.

takman

Feb 10, 2022

The enamel on the case is an interesting touch. What a way to start making acquisitions again! The au natural photos are nice to see as well, congratulations!

samwan

Feb 10, 2022

I am now drawn to watches with minimalist dial layouts, notably time-only watches. This PC is perhaps an exception.

Mike H

Feb 10, 2022

And many thanks for this nice introduction ! This model obviously deserves a shooting with an experienced photographer but your pics are already giving a good idea how beautiful it looks. Enjoy it and wear it in the best of your health !

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H. Moser & Cie Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue

About the De Bethune DB25 Ref. DB25

Specifications

Key Points from the Discussion

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