Mark in Paris presents a compelling visual essay on the often-overlooked 'profiles' of Patek Philippe's 2017 collection, emphasizing the brand's mastery of subtle case design. This article underscores how Patek Philippe's dedication to intricate case crafting contributes significantly to the watches' overall appeal and perceived proportions. Mark's detailed compilation invites readers to appreciate the nuanced artistry that defines Patek Philippe's horological creations.
Hi everyone,
As I said before, Patek Philippe watches are often about details, many decoration elements that add a lot to a watch’s
appeal. These are usually the ones we don’t look at directly or don’t even
notice but that make a watch more attractive.
Some cases in watchmaking are designed to look spectacular or trendy but this
is not what Patek is about. It impresses by its work's subtlety and the mastery
of adding refined details, even when the brand chooses surprisingly to add
diamond-set markers we’ve seen lately, as like yellow gold is again more
appreciated today.
The case's shape or the dials are the most obvious but there is also a part we
don't pay as much attention to: the
profile. This part of the watch says a lot on this matter and the effort
Patek put in a watch design and crafting.
I compiled here below the profile photos of all the watches presented during
Baselworld 2017 (new versions of existing references or brand new ones). As I already wrote here, these photos underline
the effort Patek puts in case crafting and design, something that only a few
traditional brands do today.
I hope you’ll enjoy them
Best, Mark
PS: you can see also Baselworld 2016's profiles thread here: www.watchprosite.com
MEN WATCHES
5078G and 5178G Minute Repeater (resp. 38 and 40mm cases): how to use rounded elements and nice curves, the bezel (and how it works with the glass curved the other way), the caseband and even the caseback.
5131P World Time with enamel dial: something we already know, very classical, elegant and timeless.
5168G Aquanaut: some straights line very well combined. Definitely a more modern case interpretation. Even the lugs are slightly curved in order to follow the straps' shape, from the bezel to the end.
5170P Chronograph: compared to the references presented above, the case looks independent from the lugs, as if it was articulate, yet they work beautifully.
5180R Skeletonized: Patek's thinness in a delicate and smooth interpretation, right till the bracelet links that look like water drops.
5316P Minute Repeater, Perpetual Calendar and Tourbillon (40mm case): a grand complication marvel that is, as usual for the brand, included in a case that doesn't look massive.
5320G Perpetual Calendar: the new glass profile takes its place in the stepped construction with the bezel, caseband and caseback. The proportions and shapes of each level are imho pure perfection. It is also visible in the lugs, all is coherent and very 1920's. Maybe my favorite profile from this year.
5372G Split-Second and Perpetual Calendar (38.3mm case): a unique design discovered with the 5370P 2 years ago. The thicker look compared to some references above is certainly due to the 38.3mm only case. I love those small and thick cases (like the 5930G).
5396R Annual Calendar: a classic for the brand, very discreet and yet more contemporary than rounder 5130/5140's cases.
5650G Aquanaut Dual Time "Advanced Research" 20th anniversary:
5940R Perpetual Calendar: it is not the best view on the tonneau-shaped reference, however it is still a very subtle and elegant design. That's what the 5940 is all about.
5960G Chronograph and Annual Calendar: my beloved 5960 reference's case
(I'm totally biased here :p ). The addition of the new pushers is a great move since I saw it in the metal.
5960/1A Chronograph and Annual Calendar: ah, my beloved 5960 (oops I just said that already)
6006G Calatrava: how to modernize a lightly rounder Calatrava case in order to have something a little more contemporary without going too far.
LADIES WATCHES7118/1A Nautilus: a classic Nautilus profile, showing each time a very appealing work imho

4947G Annual Calendar: nice stepped work again though very different from the ones we saw in the past. Patek brings each time diversity from predecessors.

7140G Perpetual Calendar:
4899/900G: gem-stting on such a rounder profile looks beautiful I think. For a woman I think it can make a nice daylight wearer as well with jeans.
7130G World Time: here I see the profile as a definitely dressier section, with a wonderful design thanks to the way the diamonds are placed.
5062-450R Aquanaut:

5072R Aquanaut:
About the Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5940
The Patek Philippe reference 5940 is a perpetual calendar wristwatch presented in a cushion-shaped case. It offers a classic interpretation of one of Patek Philippe's signature complications, distinguishing itself with its distinctive case geometry that provides an alternative to the more common round or rectangular perpetual calendar offerings from the manufacture. The reference was initially introduced in yellow gold, with subsequent variants in other precious metals. It represents a refined option for collectors seeking a traditional perpetual calendar with a unique aesthetic.
The watch features an 18k white gold case measuring 37 mm in diameter and 8.6 mm in thickness, housing the ultra-thin self-winding caliber 240 Q. This movement, visible through a sapphire crystal case back, provides a power reserve of 48 hours. The silvery-white dial displays the perpetual calendar indications, including day, date, month, leap year cycle, and moon phases. A sapphire crystal protects the dial, and the watch is water resistant to 30 meters.
Appealing to collectors who appreciate both horological complexity and distinctive design, the 5940 offers a blend of traditional watchmaking and a less conventional case shape. Its cushion case provides a comfortable fit and a notable presence on the wrist, while the perpetual calendar complication ensures its enduring relevance as a high-complication timepiece. The reference has been produced in various gold alloys, offering collectors choices within this specific model line.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 240 Q
- Case
- 18k White Gold
- Diameter
- 37 mm
- Dial
- Silvery-white
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph Ref. 5370
The Patek Philippe Reference 5370 is a split-seconds chronograph, a complication highly regarded in horology. It stands out in the Patek Philippe collection for its focus on a technically demanding chronograph mechanism without additional complications, presented in a classic and refined aesthetic. This reference appeals to collectors who prioritize mechanical complexity and traditional watchmaking.
The watch features a 41 mm case, available in either 18k white gold or 18k rose gold, with a polished bezel. It is equipped with the manual-winding caliber CHR 29-535 PS, a movement known for its innovative split-seconds mechanism and column-wheel control. The power reserve is approximately 65 hours. A sapphire crystal protects the dial and offers a view of the movement through the case back. Water resistance is rated at 30 meters.
This reference is notable for its enamel dial, offered in black or white, which provides a depth and finish characteristic of high-end watchmaking. The 5370 appeals to collectors seeking a pure expression of a grand complication chronograph from Patek Philippe, valuing its technical execution and understated design. It represents a significant offering within the brand's complicated watch lineup.
Specifications
- Caliber
- CHR 29-535 PS
- Case
- 18k White Gold or 18k Rose Gold
- Diameter
- 41 mm
- Dial
- White or Black
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Grand Complications Ref. 5372
The Patek Philippe Grand Complications reference 5372 is a perpetual calendar chronograph, distinguished by its highly complex movement and precious metal construction. This reference is part of Patek Philippe's Grand Complications series, representing a pinnacle of traditional horological artistry and technical achievement. It is presented in platinum, reflecting its status as a significant complicated timepiece within the brand's offerings. The design integrates the perpetual calendar and chronograph functions in a refined and legible manner.
The reference 5372 features a platinum case measuring 38.3 mm in diameter and 12.93 mm in thickness. It houses the manual-wind caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q, a movement known for its intricate construction and precise operation, which was also utilized in other notable Patek Philippe chronographs. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, providing clear visibility of the dial and offering scratch resistance. The movement's finishing is executed to a high standard, visible through the case back.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking highly complicated Patek Philippe timepieces, particularly those with a preference for perpetual calendar chronographs. The 5372 is available in right-handed versions, with a distinct left-handed variant (ref. 5373) sharing the same base movement, rotated for its specific configuration. Its limited production and technical sophistication position it as a significant piece for serious collectors of high horology.
Specifications
- Caliber
- CHR 27-525 PS Q
- Case
- Platinum
- Diameter
- 38.3mm
- Dial
- Blue or Black
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5396
Patek Philippe Reference 5396
The Reference 5396 represents Patek Philippe's annual calendar offering within the Annual Calendar with Moon Phase series. This 38.5mm reference provides the annual calendar complication combined with moon phase indication, positioning it as a complex calendar watch that requires manual correction only once per year in February.
The watch features an 18k white gold case measuring 38.5mm in diameter with a smooth bezel and sapphire crystal. The automatic Caliber 324 S IRM QA LU provides 45 hours of power reserve. Water resistance is rated to 30 meters, and the watch is fitted with a leather strap.
In production since 2006, the Reference 5396 appeals to collectors seeking Patek Philippe's annual calendar complication in white gold. The 38.5mm case size offers contemporary wearability while the moon phase adds visual interest to the calendar display. This reference serves collectors prioritizing complicated timepieces with practical daily calendar functions.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 324 S IRM QA LU
- Case
- 18k White Gold
- Diameter
- 38.5 mm
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5650
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Reference 5650G, known as the Advanced Research Aquanaut Travel Time, represents a technical exploration within the Aquanaut collection. This particular reference showcases Patek Philippe's ongoing commitment to material science and horological innovation, integrating novel advancements into a familiar and popular design. It stands apart from standard Aquanaut models due to its specific technical enhancements rather than purely aesthetic variations, positioning it as a significant piece for those interested in the brand's research and development efforts.
This timepiece features a white gold case, housing a self-winding movement. A notable characteristic is the use of a compliant mechanism for the second time zone correction, replacing traditional pivots and springs with flexible blades. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal on the front and an exhibition case back, allowing a view of the movement. Its design maintains the robust yet refined character associated with the Aquanaut line, while subtly incorporating the advanced research elements.
For collectors, the 5650G is particularly relevant due to its limited production and the incorporation of experimental technologies. It appeals to those who value mechanical innovation and the forward-thinking aspects of watchmaking. As an Advanced Research model, it offers a glimpse into potential future directions for Patek Philippe's movement architecture and material applications, making it a distinct and sought-after piece within the broader Patek Philippe catalog.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Caliber 324 S C FUS
- Case
- White gold
- Diameter
- 40.8 mm
- Dial
- Blue embossed
- Water Resist.
- 120 m
- Crystal
- Sapphire