Ornatus-Mundi provides an exclusive look at Patek Philippe's complicated watches unveiled at BaselWorld 2017, focusing on new 'dresses' for existing movements. This post offers live shots and initial impressions of several high-complication references, from grand complications to minute repeaters and world timers.
Patek has worked quite heavily on their complicated watches - not new movements, but attractive dresses. With this post (a continuation to
my first one) I'd like ti show a few of them:
First entry is the
5316P Grande Complication, with a mystically dakr enamel dial. Elaborate case, and on the content there is little to speculate...

A highlight in many ways is the
5178G Minute-Repeater (40mm) with cathedral gongs - wow, just wow! Once more we see Patek's superly skulptured Breguet numerals on a creamy enamel dial.

Slightly less complicated, but certainly 'good enough', the
5078G Minute-Repeater with 'normal' gongs (38mm) - if there is such at all:

Patek has shown also two versions of its Perpetual Calendar/Rattrapante Ref.
5372P, first in blue...

... and surprisingly also in salmon. I like the latter a lot better than the blue, which surprises me quite a bit. I think its the colour which makes the dial details so much more recognisable, and its cettainly worth to put them more into the front line.

Last but not least, here is the
5131P World Time with enamel dial in Platinum showing the North Pole, on a matching bracelet. Mmmhh, probably not for me.

Thanks for watching,
Magnus
About the Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Ref. 5078
The Patek Philippe reference 5078 represents the manufacture's 38mm minute repeater offering within their complications collection. Part of the 38mm Minute Repeater series, this reference was produced from 2008 to 2019, establishing its position as a contemporary grand complication timepiece.
The 5078 features a 38mm case available in three precious metal options: 18k white gold, 18k rose gold, or platinum. The polished bezel and sapphire crystal complement the available dial color variants. The manual-winding caliber 240 Q provides 48 hours of power reserve, housed within a case rated to 30 meters water resistance. A leather strap with fold-over clasp completes the construction.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking a minute repeater complication in a moderately sized case. The multiple metal options and dial variants provide choice within the reference, while the 11-year production run offers reasonable availability in the secondary market. The 5078 positions itself as an accessible entry point into Patek Philippe's chiming complications category.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 240 Q
- Case
- 18k White Gold, 18k Rose Gold, or Platinum
- Diameter
- 38 mm
- Dial
- Multiple variants available
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5130
The Patek Philippe Complications reference 5130, introduced in 2006, is a World Time watch that succeeded the popular reference 5110. This model maintained the distinctive World Time complication, allowing for simultaneous display of time in 24 different time zones. Its design evolved with a slightly larger case and updated dial aesthetics, distinguishing it from its predecessor while retaining the core functionality that defines Patek Philippe's travel timepieces. It was produced until 2017.
The watch features an 18k rose gold case measuring 39.5mm in diameter and 9.8mm in thickness, housing the self-winding Caliber 240 HU movement. This ultra-thin movement, visible through a sapphire crystal case back, provides a power reserve of 48 hours. The dial is silver or opaline with a guilloché center, protected by a sapphire crystal. Water resistance is rated at 30 meters.
Reference 5130 appeals to collectors seeking a sophisticated travel complication from Patek Philippe. Its larger case size compared to the 5110 offered a more contemporary presence on the wrist, while its classic World Time mechanism remained a hallmark of the brand's technical prowess. The model was available in various precious metals, with the rose gold variant offering a warm aesthetic.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.240 HU
- Case
- 18k rose gold
- Diameter
- 39.5mm
- Dial
- Silver / opaline guilloché
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5131
The Patek Philippe Complications reference 5131 is a World Time model, distinguished by its cloisonné enamel dial depicting a map of the world. This reference is part of a series that showcases Patek Philippe's expertise in both horological complications and traditional decorative arts, offering a functional travel watch with significant aesthetic appeal. It represents a continuation of the brand's long-standing tradition of producing World Time watches, updated with contemporary design elements and a self-winding movement. The 5131 is recognized for its intricate dial work, which varies depending on the specific metal and region depicted.
The watch features a 39.5mm case, available in various precious metals, housing the self-winding Caliber 240 HU. This movement provides a power reserve of 48 hours and drives the World Time complication, allowing the wearer to simultaneously view the time in 24 different time zones. The case is fitted with a sapphire crystal, ensuring durability and clear visibility of the detailed dial. Water resistance is rated at 30 meters, suitable for everyday wear. The fixed bezel frames the intricate dial, contributing to the watch's refined profile.
As a World Time model with a cloisonné dial, the 5131 appeals to collectors who appreciate both technical sophistication and artisanal craftsmanship. Its limited production and the unique hand-finished nature of each dial contribute to its desirability within the secondary market. The reference fits into Patek Philippe's Complications collection as a high-end travel watch, offering a distinctive alternative to more traditional time-only or chronograph models. Variants typically involve different precious metal cases and corresponding enamel map depictions.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.240 HU
- Case
- yellow gold
- Diameter
- 39.5mm
- Dial
- blue
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Grand Complications Ref. 5178
The Grand Complications Reference 5178 is a minute repeater, a highly regarded complication within horology. This reference is distinguished by its chiming mechanism, which audibly indicates the time on demand. It represents a segment of Patek Philippe's production dedicated to traditional high complications, appealing to collectors who prioritize acoustic horology.
This reference typically features a round case, often crafted from precious metals. It houses an automatic movement, specifically the Caliber R 27 PS, which provides the minute repeating function alongside small seconds. The movement is visible through a sapphire crystal case back, allowing appreciation of its finishing. The front crystal is also sapphire.
As a minute repeater, the 5178 holds a significant position in Patek Philippe's Grand Complications lineup. Its appeal is primarily to collectors who value the intricate mechanical artistry and the auditory experience of a minute repeater. Variants of this reference may exist with different dial treatments or case materials, offering subtle distinctions for collectors.
Specifications
- Caliber
- R 27 PS
- Case
- Rose Gold
- Diameter
- 38 mm
- Dial
- Black enamel
- Water Resist.
- 30 m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5316
The Patek Philippe Reference 5316 is a highly complex grand complication timepiece, distinguished by its combination of a minute repeater, a tourbillon, and a retrograde perpetual calendar. This reference stands apart from simpler perpetual calendar models by integrating multiple high-end complications, positioning it as a significant offering within Patek Philippe's most intricate watchmaking. It represents a pinnacle of traditional horological artistry and technical execution.
The watch features a platinum case, typically measuring 36.7 mm in diameter. It is powered by the manual-winding Caliber R TO 27 PS QR, a movement known for its intricate construction and precise finishing. The dial is often presented in black enamel, providing a striking contrast to the platinum case and enhancing legibility of its numerous indications. The crystal is sapphire, protecting the complex dial while offering clear viewing of the retrograde date, day, month, leap year cycle, and moon phases.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking Patek Philippe's most advanced mechanical achievements. Its combination of a minute repeater for acoustic time indication, a tourbillon for enhanced precision, and a retrograde perpetual calendar for comprehensive calendar display makes it a rare and sought-after piece. The 5316 continues the tradition of Patek Philippe's grand complications, showcasing the brand's enduring commitment to mastering complex horological functions.
Specifications
- Caliber
- R TO 27 PS QR
- Case
- Platinum
- Diameter
- 36.7 mm
- Dial
- Black enamel
- Water Resist.
- 30 m
- Crystal
- Sapphire