Patek Philippe 5205R vs. 5235R: Choosing Your First Dress Watch

Tlph · 2020-05-24T05:54:49Z

Choosing your first Patek Philippe dress watch? Explore the debate between the classic 5205R and the innovative 5235R, with insights on movements, aesthetics, and collector preferences.

Tlph

WPS member · Patek Philippe forum

25 replies7945 views1 photos

Tlph's quest for a first Patek Philippe dress watch, specifically between the Ref. 5205R and Ref. 5235R, highlights a common dilemma for collectors: balancing traditional aesthetics with horological innovation. His initial preference for the 5235R's movement over the 5205R's more classic case and legibility sparked a rich discussion among seasoned collectors, offering invaluable perspectives on Patek Philippe's diverse offerings.

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Now the contestants are 5205r and 5235r. Tried both. Loved both.

But leaning towards 5235r because of the movement.

1. 5025r has nicer case than 5235r and easier to read whilst 5235r has a date at 6 o’clock that I prefer not to have!!

2. But the regulator is such a low key one with a beautiful brushed dial and it wears prettier than 5205r imo.

But want to have some comments from the experienced collectors! Thank you!!

About the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5205

Patek Philippe Reference 5205

The Reference 5205 represents Patek Philippe's annual calendar offering within the complications category. This 40mm timepiece displays day, date, month, moon phase, and 24-hour indication, positioning it as a multi-function dress watch that requires adjustment only once per year at the end of February.

The 40mm case is available in 18k white gold, 18k rose gold, or platinum, featuring a smooth bezel and sapphire crystal with 30-meter water resistance. The automatic Caliber 324 S QA LU 24H provides 45 hours of power reserve. Each example comes fitted with a leather strap and deployant clasp.

In production from 2010 to present, the 5205 appeals to collectors seeking Patek Philippe's annual calendar complication in a contemporary case size. The availability across three precious metal options allows for different aesthetic preferences while maintaining the same movement and case proportions throughout the reference's production run.

Specifications

Caliber: 324 S QA LU 24H

Case: 18k White Gold, 18k Rose Gold, or Platinum

Diameter: 40 mm

Water Resist.: 30m

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

The Patek Philippe Ref. 5235R stands out for its superior movement, featuring the Pulsomax escapement and a beautifully finished microrotor, making it a more eccentric and technically advanced choice compared to the 5205R.
For a first Patek Philippe dress watch, the Ref. 5205 is often recommended due to its more traditional Patek DNA, balanced dial design, and additional functions like the moon phase and 24-hour sub-dial, making it a safer, more classic choice.
The choice between the 'fat dauphine' hands of the 5205 and the 'thin batons' of the 5235 is a significant aesthetic consideration, and personal preference for hand style should guide the decision as it impacts the daily viewing experience.
The 5205 is more suitable for regular wear due to its versatile elegance, while the 5235, with its spectacular and unique design, is better suited for occasional wear as a special piece.
While the 5205 represents a foundational Patek Philippe aesthetic, the 5235 offers unparalleled technical and aesthetic uniqueness within the annual calendar catalog, making it a distinctive choice for those seeking something truly different.
The brushed dial of the 5235R is a significant aesthetic draw for many collectors, often swaying their decision towards this reference despite its less traditional features.
One collector chose the 5235G over the 5205R-010 for its new movement and design, noting its case similarity to the vintage Ref. 3448 and the unique regulator design.

The Discussion

p.boxster

May 24, 2020

Hard decision...

...between these two! I love them both, but I decided for the 5235R. The dial is more interesting and as you described the movement is superior due to the Pulsomax escapement. And the movement is much prettier with the microrotor, finishing is top level and it is just available in this reference. BUT the 5235 is the more eccentric watch which might be less popular. The 5205R is one of the best looking pateks imo. And is has the moon phase, is more classical... The movement is good too of course,

Tlph

May 24, 2020

Thanks P for the first hand experience!

Your post was one of the reasons that I tried the regulator! Haha

FabR

May 24, 2020

Two beauties that convey lots of charm and elegance, so this ultimately comes down to a very subjective choice, especially after you've tried on and liked both...

My only comment is probably that, while there are several ACs in the catalog, technically (and aesthetically) there's really no other Patek like the 5235/50R! But whichever your final decision, you can be sure you've acquired an outstanding a great looking piece! Keep us posted

holdemchamp1225

May 24, 2020

5235R for me between these 2, in fact I hope to add a 5235G in the near future 😉 [nt]

GLau

May 24, 2020

IMO, between the two, it comes down to whether you prefer a dress watch that is more...

unusual (5235) or traditional (5205). The regulator has a lovely brushed dial and a dial design that is unusually interesting ! The dial design of 5205 is well balanced and classy. It contains more functions (moon phase and 24 hour sub-dial) and has unusual lugs ! If I were to select one as my first Patek dress watch, I would go for 5205 because to me it has more Patek DNA. Good luck with your choice and let us see wrist shots soon !

jenjames

May 24, 2020

IMHO.. 5235 for collectors who already own multiple PPs. First PP best stick with 5205 as mentioned above by GLau for the PP DNA. [nt]