Patek Philippe 5396R-012 vs. 5205R-001 Annual Calendar

frequentglobetrotter · 2017-07-30T06:01:25Z

Compare Patek Philippe Ref. 5396R-012 vs. 5205R-001 annual calendars. Expert insights on design, wearability, and aesthetics for your next acquisition.

frequentglobetrotter

WPS member · Patek Philippe forum

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Frequentglobetrotter's dilemma between the Patek Philippe Ref. 5396R-012 and Ref. 5205R-001 annual calendars highlights a common challenge for collectors: choosing between two exceptional interpretations of a complication. This post invites the community to weigh in on the nuances of design, wearability, and aesthetic preferences that differentiate these two highly regarded Patek Philippe models.

22 collectors discussing this on the WatchProSite forumJoin the Conversation →

All,

I am interested in adding a Patek Philippe annual calendar to my collection and, after quite some deliberation, have narrowed the selection to the 5396R-012and the 5205R-001.

Both pieces appeal to me and are ultimately excellent interpretations of this complication, whilst each has its own unique character. I have sought to highlight some of my headline thoughts below;

5396R-012

+ A relatively more clean dial design
+ Fantastically-formed Breguet numerals
+ Supplied on a folding clasp deployant buckle
+ Slimmer case
+ A classic interpretation built on the iconic Calatrava case design philosophy
- Complications are relatively more obscured and less easy to read

5205R-001

+ Spectacularly-scuplted and skelotonised lugs alongside an interesting concave (but appearing convex due to high-polishing) bezel
+ Easier to read annual calendar complications, whilst the moonphase is the same as the 5396 variants
+ A modern interpretation that appears to have greater versatility, being slightly more casual whilst sufficiently formal also (and perhaps greater resale value should one move on later)
- Rose gold date frame at 12 o'clock position does not align with aperture-opening and leaves a white dial border around the date disc
- Supplied on a pin buckle and, generally noted to use a lower volume of gold (presenting a relative value case)
- Relatively chunky for a dress piece, making it less suitable in formal settings (but still sufficiently so) and perhaps more susceptible to knocks and damage, given the raised and concave bezel

Whilst resale is a consideration, should I later evolve my collection, the purchase price for each is the same, though the lack of the deployant on the 5205-001 may later prompt a purchase of this part.

I would very much appreciate your votes and, even more helpfully, any thoughts and insights.

Thank you!

About the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5205

Patek Philippe Reference 5205

The Reference 5205 represents Patek Philippe's annual calendar offering within the complications category. This 40mm timepiece displays day, date, month, moon phase, and 24-hour indication, positioning it as a multi-function dress watch that requires adjustment only once per year at the end of February.

The 40mm case is available in 18k white gold, 18k rose gold, or platinum, featuring a smooth bezel and sapphire crystal with 30-meter water resistance. The automatic Caliber 324 S QA LU 24H provides 45 hours of power reserve. Each example comes fitted with a leather strap and deployant clasp.

In production from 2010 to present, the 5205 appeals to collectors seeking Patek Philippe's annual calendar complication in a contemporary case size. The availability across three precious metal options allows for different aesthetic preferences while maintaining the same movement and case proportions throughout the reference's production run.

Specifications

Caliber: 324 S QA LU 24H

Case: 18k White Gold, 18k Rose Gold, or Platinum

Diameter: 40 mm

Water Resist.: 30m

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

The choice between the 5396R and 5205R should be personal, considering one's existing collection, general taste, and preference for modern versus traditional styles, rather than solely relying on community votes.
The 5205R is preferred for its modern design, while the 5396R is seen as more traditional; some collectors prefer vintage versions for a classic aesthetic over modern re-interpretations.
The 5205R offers easier date readability and a more interesting, curvier case design, though it may wear smaller on the wrist.
The 5396R is considered more wearable due to its thinner profile and smaller 38.5mm diameter compared to the 5205R's 40.2mm, and its Breguet numerals are highly appealing.
The 5396R is seen as having a more classic Patek look, especially with baton hour markers, while the 5205R represents a more contemporary style.
The 5205's concave bezel is less prone to scratches than the flat, polished bezel of the 5396, making it a more practical choice for regular wear.

The Discussion

Arie - Mr Orange

Jul 30, 2017

The question is: vintage-classic-like or 'contemporary'-classic?

Do you really intend to use the complication? In that case the answer is also pretty clear.

dr.kol

Jul 30, 2017

I would go for 5205 but it's just my personal opinion.

The only reason is that I do not like when the date is placed to 6 a'clock and I find that the day day, date and month are organised in a very attractive way in 5205. But both watches are great representatives of the species (AC). Best, Kari

SRG

Jul 30, 2017

As much as I like Breguet numerals,...

the case style and legibility of the 5205 would win me over. The black version is also very nice.

Mike H

Jul 30, 2017

I know this is not the answer you want to hear but...

...I am not sure the question is relevant if it is to influence your choice because this might mislead you and bring you to a wrong decision. It is not because 90% of us vote for one of the 2 options that it is the one you should take. It actually depends on so many other factors : what are your other watches so as to avoid too much duplication in terms of style ? What is your taste in general ? What are you looking for now ? modern or traditional style ? for formal or informal occasions ?... Th

Alkiro1

Jul 30, 2017

The readability of the 5205 is unbeatable for me. Just for that I would go for it

Best wishes Alkiro

keks

Jul 30, 2017

Both wonderful

I would be very happy with either, but if the intention was to wear it regularly I would get the 5205 simply because the bezel is less scratch prone than he flat 5396 bezel. These flat polished bezels can be acratch magnets. If that is not something you worry about then decision is entirely an aesthetic one I think. I do prefer the deployant but that is easily solved... sorry can not help more than this but hope you will arrive at a conclusion that suits your needs and please do share once final