Patek Philippe 5227R Calatrava Review
Review

Patek Philippe 5227R Calatrava Review

By Mark in Paris · Nov 6, 2015 · 53 replies
Mark in Paris
WPS member · Patek Philippe forum
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Mark in Paris offers a compelling hands-on review of the Patek Philippe 5227R, a Calatrava that masterfully blends classic elegance with modern design elements. His detailed observations highlight the watch's subtle yet significant evolutions from previous models, making a strong case for its appeal to both seasoned collectors and those new to the Calatrava line. Mark's initial skepticism about two or three-hand watches quickly dissolved after experiencing the 5227R, underscoring its captivating presence.

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Dear Patek fellows,

Before being able to have a look at the new 5227G with black dial presented earlier this year at Baselworld, I could try the Patek Philippe 5227R version. Let me tell you that it has been a memorable experience for me.





As you have certainly experienced, we often feel that we are not 100% satisfied after a try and think we would make a mistake purchasing this or that watch, even if we are a little excited. However, some other times, you feel very excited at a point you think about it for several days (or more) without finding any downside.

Well, this is what the 5227R is doing to me.

The 5227 is a classy and elegant Calatrava with a little modern touch compared to the 5127 for instance. The main visible evolutions compared to the previous model are the crown guards removal, the grooves in the lugs, and the Officer's case back feature. These are the most visible differences.

Each Calatrava is a witness of its time and comprises specific aesthetical elements. Hence, each new generation evolves and includes the current style characteristics. The elements I listed in the previous paragraph are the trademark of today when the lines are less made of round movements only but add an opposition between curves, orientations or concave and convex shapes.


THE CASE AND HINGED CASEBACK

The case has grown up from 37 to 39mm but, in spite of the new very thin "Savonette" caseback, the watch remains thin (9.2mm). This is what I was afraid of, before holding it, as Officer's case back usually brings an additional thickness which wouldn't have matched with what I think a 3-hands Calatrava should be.





Moreover, the hinged caseback is brushed and looks beautiful that way. It won't get hairlines as much as a polished cover. I would really like to emphasize the fact that, from the side (picture I didn't take from that angle) the back cover looks 1mm thick, which is nothing compared to more curved and deep ones I could see in the past. This is a huge asset of such a feature in this 5227 reference.





Speaking about the hinge, it is a different version from the one we know for instance in the 5159 reference: the hinge is placed on the crown side in the 5159 whereas it is placed on the opposite one in the 5227. Even if it is very cleverly integrated in the 5159 as it brings charm to the watch and is part of the case's decoration, the 5227's hinge is very discreetly integrated into the case and remains much less visible from the side.

Now, the case number and stamps are engraved into the case and not in the inner side of the cover. This was made to leave the polished surface free from any mark.

Once you've opened the cover, the view is breathtaking: the reflection of the movement in the inner side of the cover brings a lot to this beautiful impression. The caliber is here the 324 SC which is equipped with the Silinvar spiral "Spiromax" (better resistance than steel and amagnetic).





I love this case. As I said above, the lugs are grooved in a very nice way. The grooves are something we see also (though with a different shape) in the 5205 for instance. I find they bring lightness and a little touch of modernity compared to very classical and plain ones.

Furthermore, when looking at the front side of the watch, the lugs are very sensual, without bringing feminity to the case, and are a model of beauty: on the exterior side, the curve is pure perfection to me. Certainly one of my favorite lug shape from the whole Calatrava cases.





The concave bezel goes the same way and, logically, brings the same modern touch, keeping the elegance we want to find in such a model. A concave bezel helps making the watch look less thinner than with a rounded one.

The crown has the perfect size to be manipulated with comfort and it is not too large either in order not to unbalance the right side. As usual, the Calatrava cross is still a very nice decoration element of the crown.






THE DIAL SIDE

The lacquered dial (12 layers) dial is something that pleased me a lot when I discovered it. When dealing with light color dials, we usually have only silvery or Opaline ones. I sometimes would like to see warmer colors or material, hence the eggshell, crème or ivory colors are something I like a lot in that field.

Thus, the ivory one we find in the 5227R (and also the little different one we have in the G version, though still crème-like color) is a wonderful choice to me. This is one of the major elements which make this Calatrava stand out and appeal that much to me.





The Dauphine hands are perfect with this case as they bring a little more dynamism and character compared to stick hands or more classical leaf ones. Another detail I like very much is the fact the hour hand is very very close to the dial: that way, it doesn't look thick or heavy. It is really impressive as I'm not sure there is room to introduce the piece of paper.





Hands design (as any other element in fact) can bring contrast, lightness or presence to a watch. The choice should depend on what the watch is already made of (bezel, subdials, printings etc....). Hence, simple or straight hands (stick) or refined and classical ones (leaf) can suit respectively modern or busier references. I think that on a Calatrava, the Dauphine hands bring a little more character and strength (plus a little 70's touch I like a lot).





The applied markers and minute-dots complete this dial masterpiece. I like this combination and prefer it to a "railway" printing as it is more refined. The single marker at 12 o'clock is enhancing this homogeneity.
You will notice here below that the applied markers are not flat but they have 2 levels or "steps". this is more difficult to make than flat or round ones. This is a question of going into details.





I'm usually not a fan of gold frames in busy dials, especially when there are several registers. However, the single gold frame added to the date register brings a little luxurious touch I find perfect. It animates the dial in a very nice manner. I wouldn't imagine the dial without it. You'll notice that they are not "just a frame" but that the top side is also shaped with a little step. It would have been much easier not too but it looks pretier that way.









CONCLUSION AND THOUGHTS

Well, as you certainly can feel from my post, I fell in love with this reference. It has made the Calatrava evolve in a splendid way, keeping what this iconic family must bring.





I was able to have a distant look at the new 5227G black dial unveiled this year but couldn't hold it yet and see how I like it. I'll update my thoughts when I can try it.

However, for someone who is looking for an exciting but purer watch, which won't seem too discreet because of a white metal, this version is one of the best as it brings color and a very nice addition to your wearing outfit, whether it is casual or a suit.

Elegance, refinement, design... the Patek Philippe 5227 (and especially the rose gold version) is a great reference for me and represents what makes Patek Philippe such a legendary watchmaker, even though it is not a complicated model. This shows that a watch doesn't have to be complicated to be a masterpiece.

This is usually the kind of understated models we don't review that much but I wonder what would be your thoughts about this recent reference of Calatrava?

Cheers, Mark


__________________________________

This message has been edited by Mark in Paris on 2015-11-08 09:46:52

About the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5205

Patek Philippe Reference 5205

The Reference 5205 represents Patek Philippe's annual calendar offering within the complications category. This 40mm timepiece displays day, date, month, moon phase, and 24-hour indication, positioning it as a multi-function dress watch that requires adjustment only once per year at the end of February.

The 40mm case is available in 18k white gold, 18k rose gold, or platinum, featuring a smooth bezel and sapphire crystal with 30-meter water resistance. The automatic Caliber 324 S QA LU 24H provides 45 hours of power reserve. Each example comes fitted with a leather strap and deployant clasp.

In production from 2010 to present, the 5205 appeals to collectors seeking Patek Philippe's annual calendar complication in a contemporary case size. The availability across three precious metal options allows for different aesthetic preferences while maintaining the same movement and case proportions throughout the reference's production run.

Specifications

Caliber
324 S QA LU 24H
Case
18k White Gold, 18k Rose Gold, or Platinum
Diameter
40 mm
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
FE
Feelty91
Nov 6, 2015

mark thank you for the review this is a beautiful watch and i will be looking into it wow really elegant god bless

DR
drphileasfogg
Nov 6, 2015

And I have yet to try it. I tried YG and liked it but the WG, I found terrible. The ivory dial is not my cup of tea but against some colored gold case, it kind of work. I think the black dial WG is nicer than the white dial one. I saw it at BaselWorld but I have yet to try it (posted some photos on our forum). That said the case is amazing, to me it is a great achievement and with a silvery dial I would probably have one in my collection by now. Thanks for your review. Best

KE
keks
Nov 6, 2015

Lovely review and great photos. I like this watch a lot, not something I would rush to add but mostly since it does not fit with my lifestyle. One thing I am curious to understand is why they decided to upsize it from what surely is a perfect size at 37 to 39… but seems the entire collection is going larger. But that is a personal preference of course… the proportions are great one this piece I must say. Really like the dial combination with the rose gold and dauphine hands. If I had to express

DR
drphileasfogg
Nov 6, 2015

"> WG looks like a bit sea sick loves YG, maybe over RG

BA
Baron - Mr Red
Nov 6, 2015

Super review. You have made me resolve to try it on next time I am in London. Bad! When it was released, I loved it. But have never had one on my wrist. Will be interesting to compare with some of my vintage Calatravas

ED
Ed Watches
Nov 6, 2015

These are the nicest pictures I have seen so far of the 5227R. I can't wait to hold one in the metal. I wish you have not posted such tempting photos, but now that you have done so I can only thank you!

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