Patek Philippe 5227R Calatrava Review
Review

Patek Philippe 5227R Calatrava Review

By Mark in Paris · Nov 6, 2015 · 53 replies
Mark in Paris
WPS member · Patek Philippe forum
53 replies50879 views4 photos
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Mark in Paris offers a compelling hands-on review of the Patek Philippe 5227R, a Calatrava that masterfully blends classic elegance with modern design elements. His detailed observations highlight the watch's subtle yet significant evolutions from previous models, making a strong case for its appeal to both seasoned collectors and those new to the Calatrava line. Mark's initial skepticism about two or three-hand watches quickly dissolved after experiencing the 5227R, underscoring its captivating presence.

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Dear Patek fellows,

Before being able to have a look at the new 5227G with black dial presented earlier this year at Baselworld, I could try the Patek Philippe 5227R version. Let me tell you that it has been a memorable experience for me.





As you have certainly experienced, we often feel that we are not 100% satisfied after a try and think we would make a mistake purchasing this or that watch, even if we are a little excited. However, some other times, you feel very excited at a point you think about it for several days (or more) without finding any downside.

Well, this is what the 5227R is doing to me.

The 5227 is a classy and elegant Calatrava with a little modern touch compared to the 5127 for instance. The main visible evolutions compared to the previous model are the crown guards removal, the grooves in the lugs, and the Officer's case back feature. These are the most visible differences.

Each Calatrava is a witness of its time and comprises specific aesthetical elements. Hence, each new generation evolves and includes the current style characteristics. The elements I listed in the previous paragraph are the trademark of today when the lines are less made of round movements only but add an opposition between curves, orientations or concave and convex shapes.


THE CASE AND HINGED CASEBACK

The case has grown up from 37 to 39mm but, in spite of the new very thin "Savonette" caseback, the watch remains thin (9.2mm). This is what I was afraid of, before holding it, as Officer's case back usually brings an additional thickness which wouldn't have matched with what I think a 3-hands Calatrava should be.





Moreover, the hinged caseback is brushed and looks beautiful that way. It won't get hairlines as much as a polished cover. I would really like to emphasize the fact that, from the side (picture I didn't take from that angle) the back cover looks 1mm thick, which is nothing compared to more curved and deep ones I could see in the past. This is a huge asset of such a feature in this 5227 reference.





Speaking about the hinge, it is a different version from the one we know for instance in the 5159 reference: the hinge is placed on the crown side in the 5159 whereas it is placed on the opposite one in the 5227. Even if it is very cleverly integrated in the 5159 as it brings charm to the watch and is part of the case's decoration, the 5227's hinge is very discreetly integrated into the case and remains much less visible from the side.

Now, the case number and stamps are engraved into the case and not in the inner side of the cover. This was made to leave the polished surface free from any mark.

Once you've opened the cover, the view is breathtaking: the reflection of the movement in the inner side of the cover brings a lot to this beautiful impression. The caliber is here the 324 SC which is equipped with the Silinvar spiral "Spiromax" (better resistance than steel and amagnetic).





I love this case. As I said above, the lugs are grooved in a very nice way. The grooves are something we see also (though with a different shape) in the 5205 for instance. I find they bring lightness and a little touch of modernity compared to very classical and plain ones.

Furthermore, when looking at the front side of the watch, the lugs are very sensual, without bringing feminity to the case, and are a model of beauty: on the exterior side, the curve is pure perfection to me. Certainly one of my favorite lug shape from the whole Calatrava cases.





The concave bezel goes the same way and, logically, brings the same modern touch, keeping the elegance we want to find in such a model. A concave bezel helps making the watch look less thinner than with a rounded one.

The crown has the perfect size to be manipulated with comfort and it is not too large either in order not to unbalance the right side. As usual, the Calatrava cross is still a very nice decoration element of the crown.






THE DIAL SIDE

The lacquered dial (12 layers) dial is something that pleased me a lot when I discovered it. When dealing with light color dials, we usually have only silvery or Opaline ones. I sometimes would like to see warmer colors or material, hence the eggshell, crème or ivory colors are something I like a lot in that field.

Thus, the ivory one we find in the 5227R (and also the little different one we have in the G version, though still crème-like color) is a wonderful choice to me. This is one of the major elements which make this Calatrava stand out and appeal that much to me.





The Dauphine hands are perfect with this case as they bring a little more dynamism and character compared to stick hands or more classical leaf ones. Another detail I like very much is the fact the hour hand is very very close to the dial: that way, it doesn't look thick or heavy. It is really impressive as I'm not sure there is room to introduce the piece of paper.





Hands design (as any other element in fact) can bring contrast, lightness or presence to a watch. The choice should depend on what the watch is already made of (bezel, subdials, printings etc....). Hence, simple or straight hands (stick) or refined and classical ones (leaf) can suit respectively modern or busier references. I think that on a Calatrava, the Dauphine hands bring a little more character and strength (plus a little 70's touch I like a lot).





The applied markers and minute-dots complete this dial masterpiece. I like this combination and prefer it to a "railway" printing as it is more refined. The single marker at 12 o'clock is enhancing this homogeneity.
You will notice here below that the applied markers are not flat but they have 2 levels or "steps". this is more difficult to make than flat or round ones. This is a question of going into details.





I'm usually not a fan of gold frames in busy dials, especially when there are several registers. However, the single gold frame added to the date register brings a little luxurious touch I find perfect. It animates the dial in a very nice manner. I wouldn't imagine the dial without it. You'll notice that they are not "just a frame" but that the top side is also shaped with a little step. It would have been much easier not too but it looks pretier that way.









CONCLUSION AND THOUGHTS

Well, as you certainly can feel from my post, I fell in love with this reference. It has made the Calatrava evolve in a splendid way, keeping what this iconic family must bring.





I was able to have a distant look at the new 5227G black dial unveiled this year but couldn't hold it yet and see how I like it. I'll update my thoughts when I can try it.

However, for someone who is looking for an exciting but purer watch, which won't seem too discreet because of a white metal, this version is one of the best as it brings color and a very nice addition to your wearing outfit, whether it is casual or a suit.

Elegance, refinement, design... the Patek Philippe 5227 (and especially the rose gold version) is a great reference for me and represents what makes Patek Philippe such a legendary watchmaker, even though it is not a complicated model. This shows that a watch doesn't have to be complicated to be a masterpiece.

This is usually the kind of understated models we don't review that much but I wonder what would be your thoughts about this recent reference of Calatrava?

Cheers, Mark


__________________________________

This message has been edited by Mark in Paris on 2015-11-08 09:46:52

About the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5127

The Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 5127 represents a distinct iteration within the Calatrava line, characterized by its inclusion of crown guards, a feature not commonly found on many other Calatrava models. This design element provides a slightly sportier aesthetic and contributes to a more robust wrist presence compared to its more minimalist counterparts. It was offered alongside other Calatrava references, providing collectors with a choice that balanced traditional Calatrava elegance with a subtle contemporary edge.

The 5127 features a 37 mm case, available in various precious metals. The watch is powered by an automatic movement, visible through a sapphire crystal case back. The front crystal is also sapphire, ensuring durability and clarity. The case design, with its integrated crown guards, distinguishes it from other Calatrava references that typically feature a more exposed crown.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking a Calatrava with a slightly more pronounced and protected profile. Its availability in different precious metals, such as white gold (5127G), rose gold (5125R), and platinum (5110P, though the 5127 is distinct), allowed for varied collecting opportunities. The 5127 occupies a specific niche for those who appreciate the Calatrava's classic proportions but desire the added visual and functional element of crown guards.

Specifications

Caliber
Caliber 315 SC
Case
18k white gold
Diameter
37mm
Dial
Silver
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

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The Discussion
FE
Feelty91
Nov 6, 2015
what a beauty

mark thank you for the review this is a beautiful watch and i will be looking into it wow really elegant god bless

MA
Mark in Paris
Nov 6, 2015
Thank you Feelthy, I'm glad you enjoyed it

This is indeed a nice reference to discover (or re-discover). Cheers, Mark

DR
drphileasfogg
Nov 6, 2015
The RG is probably the best

And I have yet to try it. I tried YG and liked it but the WG, I found terrible. The ivory dial is not my cup of tea but against some colored gold case, it kind of work. I think the black dial WG is nicer than the white dial one. I saw it at BaselWorld but I have yet to try it (posted some photos on our forum). That said the case is amazing, to me it is a great achievement and with a silvery dial I would probably have one in my collection by now. Thanks for your review. Best

DR
drphileasfogg
Nov 6, 2015
YG and WG versions

"> WG looks like a bit sea sick loves YG, maybe over RG

MA
Mark in Paris
Nov 6, 2015
I didn't see how an ivory or creme dial looked with the G reference

I was told it is a different dial color but couldn't check it by myself. Indeed, I'm curious to see how the black dial G ref. looks like. Soon I hope! Do not hesitate to update your comments when you can see the RG, it would be interesting to know. Thanks for your input and for sharing your pictures! Cheers, Mark

KE
keks
Nov 6, 2015
Looks very nice on your wrist

Lovely review and great photos. I like this watch a lot, not something I would rush to add but mostly since it does not fit with my lifestyle. One thing I am curious to understand is why they decided to upsize it from what surely is a perfect size at 37 to 39… but seems the entire collection is going larger. But that is a personal preference of course… the proportions are great one this piece I must say. Really like the dial combination with the rose gold and dauphine hands. If I had to express

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