Amanico provides an insightful first look at three significant Patek Philippe releases from Basel Fair 2018, offering initial impressions and technical details. His analysis focuses on the Nautilus 5740G, Aquanaut 5968A, and World Time Minute Repeater 5531R, highlighting their design merits and market positioning. This post serves as a valuable early review for collectors considering these new references.
Three watches which will deserve more in depth comments and analysis.
BUT, my favorite Nautilus is born. Till now, I considered the 5980 as the best, it may change with this 5740G:

The perpetual calendar works very well with the Nautilus, as it works very well with the Royal Oak. A delicious blend of sport chic and elegance.
The 40 mm case is not too big, nor too thick, as the height is only 8, 42 mm. Water resistance: 60 meters. Cal 240Q.
The issue? It is a white gold watch. The retail is consequent, with a price above the 100, 000 Euros.
The Aquanaut, now. A first for this family, which receives a mono counter chronograph. Which may explain why the 5960A is discontinued...
42, 2 mm case, 11, 9 mm thick. In steel. Flyback Chrono, Cal 28-520C.
The water resistance is 120 meters. A true sports watch, with a very cool look.

Now, the exquisite offer: 5531R. After the New York Edition, here is the Lavaux Edition. Minute Repeater AND World Time. 40, 2 mm case, 11, 49 mm high.

Cal R 27 H.U. The gongs are attached to the case for a better dispersion of the sound, according to Patek.
To be judged.
For sure our moderator will come back to these pieces, and to the others!
Best,
Nicolas
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5130
The Patek Philippe Complications reference 5130, introduced in 2006, is a World Time watch that succeeded the popular reference 5110. This model maintained the distinctive World Time complication, allowing for simultaneous display of time in 24 different time zones. Its design evolved with a slightly larger case and updated dial aesthetics, distinguishing it from its predecessor while retaining the core functionality that defines Patek Philippe's travel timepieces. It was produced until 2017.
The watch features an 18k rose gold case measuring 39.5mm in diameter and 9.8mm in thickness, housing the self-winding Caliber 240 HU movement. This ultra-thin movement, visible through a sapphire crystal case back, provides a power reserve of 48 hours. The dial is silver or opaline with a guilloché center, protected by a sapphire crystal. Water resistance is rated at 30 meters.
Reference 5130 appeals to collectors seeking a sophisticated travel complication from Patek Philippe. Its larger case size compared to the 5110 offered a more contemporary presence on the wrist, while its classic World Time mechanism remained a hallmark of the brand's technical prowess. The model was available in various precious metals, with the rose gold variant offering a warm aesthetic.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.240 HU
- Case
- 18k rose gold
- Diameter
- 39.5mm
- Dial
- Silver / opaline guilloché
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5531
The Patek Philippe Reference 5531 is distinguished as a World Time Minute Repeater, a highly complex combination of two of Patek Philippe's signature complications. It was initially introduced as a limited edition, highlighting both the brand's technical prowess in horology and its artistic application of métiers d'art, specifically cloisonné enamel work on the dial, depicting urban landscapes.
The case of the 5531 measures 40.20 mm in diameter and 11.49 mm in thickness, crafted in rose gold. It is powered by the self-winding Caliber R 27 HU, an integrated movement that allows the minute repeater to chime the local time as indicated by the world time function. The watch features a sapphire crystal.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking Patek Philippe's high complications combined with unique artistic dials. The initial release in 2017 featured two distinct cloisonné enamel dial variants, each depicting a Manhattan skyline, one in a daytime scene and the other at night, further enhancing its exclusivity and collector appeal within the grand complication series.
Specifications
- Caliber
- R 27 HU
- Case
- Rose gold
- Diameter
- 40.20 mm
- Dial
- Cloisonné enamel (Manhattan skyline)
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5960
The Patek Philippe Complications reference 5960A, introduced in stainless steel, represents a significant offering within the brand's annual calendar chronograph series. This particular reference is notable for being the first annual calendar chronograph from Patek Philippe to be offered in a non-precious metal, making it a distinctive piece in the Complications collection. It combines practical complications with a robust case material, appealing to collectors seeking a blend of utility and horological complexity.
This reference features a 40.5mm stainless steel case, housing the self-winding Caliber CH 28-520 QA 24H. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 55 hours and is visible through a sapphire crystal case back. The dial is presented in white, protected by a sapphire crystal, and the watch is water-resistant to 30 meters. The integrated stainless steel bracelet complements the case material, providing a cohesive aesthetic.
The 5960A in stainless steel holds a specific position for collectors due to its material choice and the integrated bracelet, differentiating it from its precious metal counterparts. Its combination of an annual calendar and chronograph functions, along with the 24-hour indication, makes it a highly functional and mechanically interesting timepiece. The special hand set and case back decoration mentioned for this specific 5960A further emphasize its unique attributes within the production run.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.CH 28-520 QA 24H
- Case
- stainless steel
- Diameter
- 40.5mm
- Dial
- white
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5968
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut reference 5968 is notable for its chronograph complication, marking a significant addition to the Aquanaut collection. This reference introduces a sportier dimension to the line, combining the distinctive Aquanaut aesthetic with enhanced functionality. It is recognized for its vibrant color accents, particularly on the strap, which offers a contemporary appeal within the brand's offerings. The integration of a chronograph positions it as a more technically complex option compared to time-only or travel time Aquanaut models.
This Aquanaut chronograph features a stainless steel case, measuring 42.2 mm in diameter. It houses the self-winding caliber CH 28-520 C, a flyback chronograph movement known for its column-wheel control and vertical disc clutch. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal on the front and a sapphire-crystal case back, allowing for observation of the movement. It offers a power reserve of approximately 45 to 55 hours and is water-resistant to 120 meters.
For collectors, the 5968 appeals to those seeking a modern Patek Philippe with a robust and functional design. Its stainless steel construction and chronograph complication make it a versatile piece suitable for active wear. The option for different strap colors, such as the orange noted by collectors, allows for personalization and contributes to its distinct character within the broader Aquanaut family. This reference represents a contemporary interpretation of a luxury sports watch.
Specifications
- Caliber
- CH 28-520 C
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 42.2 mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 120 m
- Crystal
- Sapphire