Patek Philippe Esteem Beyond Nautilus/Aquanaut
Innovation

Patek Philippe Esteem Beyond Nautilus/Aquanaut

By ImranLondon · Nov 4, 2024 · 24 replies
ImranLondon
WPS member · Patek Philippe forum
24 replies3140 views11 photos
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Miranda's insightful post delves into the foundational reasons behind Patek Philippe's enduring prestige, moving beyond the brand's popular Nautilus and Aquanaut models. This article explores the horological innovations and historical contributions that truly cemented Patek Philippe's esteemed position in haute horlogerie, inviting readers to appreciate the depth of its legacy. Miranda challenges us to look past modern trends and understand the brand's core values.

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I think I might have some inclination for this:

Here are some observations 




























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The Discussion
IM
ImranLondon
Nov 4, 2024
Yep, the real Patek signature dish!

AN
AndCavanaugh
Nov 4, 2024
They sure had some great ebauche suppliers 😁

I think setting the time by pulling out the crown was probably Patek's most important contribution to watchmaking. That was a huge deal. Also possibly the first to do multi-position crowns.

CL
Clavi
Nov 4, 2024
Pendant winding and setting mechanism wasn't even a Philippe first

The combined pendant winding and setting mechanism can be found already in a 1838 watch by Hector Audemars. That is 4 years before the invention by Adrien Philippe (when he was working independently in Paris, some years before joining with Patek in Switzerland). So even that is not to the credit of PP.

AN
AndCavanaugh
Nov 4, 2024
Philippe was the first to use a sliding pinion with negative setting afaik

The Hector Audemars system was push-set with a rocker, right?

CL
Clavi
Nov 5, 2024
Not sure of the technicalities

I just know that the (now closed) Musée d’Horlogerie de la Vallée de Joux used to have the Hector Audemars watch and described it as the first of its kind, also listing the later systems developped by Adrien Philippe (1942), Adolphe Nicole (1846), and Antoine LeCoultre (1947), which I believe is the first one to have the combined winding and setting system located on the dial side as we know it mostly today

AN
AndCavanaugh
Nov 5, 2024
We don't use the Audemars system today, we use Philippe's system today

Sliding pinion in Seiko 6128B Patek Philippe 7'676 Negative setting is when you pull out the crown to set the time, which Philippe was doing as early as 1842, probably earlier. Philippe didn't invent stem wind/set, but he invented the specific type of stem wind/set everyone uses today, because it's very good.

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