Emmanuel, known as quattro on WatchProSite, offers an intriguing look into the Patek Philippe 'Cabriolet' and its modern descendant, the Ref. 5099RG. His detailed comparison highlights the subtle yet significant design evolutions between the 1920s original and its 1999 reinterpretation. This exploration provides valuable context for understanding Patek Philippe's design philosophy and how historical pieces continue to inspire contemporary creations.
One of the timepieces on display in the
Patek Philippe Museum which I find
intriguing and
exquisite is the “
Cabriolet” which served as a
source of inspiration for the
modern ref.
5099RG.
The
movement (based on a 9’’’ ébauche by LeCoultre & Cie) was manufactured in
1927 and the
case in
1928.
And the
watch, which was made for
Eberhard Milan, as evidenced by the
signature at 6 o'clock on the
dial, was
sold on June 13,
1929.
The rectangular
cabriolet case is made of
yellow and
white gold.
And the
side of the
case is subtly
engraved (sorry for the low quality photos of the case side).
The watch, with
inventory no.
P-1329, is
on display with
three other watches in the
window no.
55 dedicated to the “
Style années 20” (1920s style).
As stated in the
catalog of the Museum, it was part of a
series of three: its
case number is
606 797, whereas
the
other two, the
whereabouts of which are
unknown, have case nos.
606 795 and
606 796.
It was probably
acquired by the
Patek Philippe Museum at the
auction organised by
Antiquorum in Geneva on April 10,
1994:
lot 429.
credit: AntiquorumLaunched at the
Basel Watch Fair in
1999, the ref.
5099RG-001 is directly
inspired by the “
Cabriolet” of the
1920s.
However,
instead of being made of
yellow and
white gold, its
case is made of
rose and
white gold.
The
railroad track and
numerals are
identical to the original.
But the original
pear-shaped hands have been
replaced by
sword-shaped hands, the
numerals of the
small seconds register have been
removed and the
brand signature has been
modernised.
credit: Stories of TimeThe
hinges and the
crown are also
different. And, most importantly, the
case flank isn't engraved.
credit: Caso WatchesI find the
design and
look of the watch quite
stunning.
credit: Stories of TimeEven the
pin buckle has a
unique faceted design.
credit: Caso Watches (pin buckle, front photo) & Stories of TimeAnd one can only
regret that this watch is so
rarely seen, because the
fit/look on the
wrist is
wonderful.
Our dear
sham1 acquired his
eight years ago.
I mean,
how classy is this!
credit: @aleksmladenovic
In 2005, Patek Philippe made a unique gem-set variant piece, ref. 5099/101-RG-001 for the Only Watch auction.
But I'm not going to lie: even though I
love the
original “Cabriolet” and the ref.
5099RG, I
don't like this
unique piece at all, as I don't like either the
case or the
dial.
The watch was
sold by
Antiquorum on September 22,
2005:
lot 27.
credit: Patek Philippe & AntiquorumIn
2008, Patek Philippe created an
additional two series of
four Rare Handcraft pieces:
- One series consisted of four pieces decorated with Art Deco designs as a nod to the era of the launch of the first “Cabriolet” in the lates 1920s: I have not been able to find images of these pieces.
- The second series, also consisting of four pieces, featured delicate butterfly designs: they are shown below and were sold by Antiquorum on March 17, 2013: lot 121.
credit: Antiquorum
But let's not conclude this post with these not very appealing (to me) pieces: let's rather add a few more photos of the ref. 5099RG.
credit: @alekswatches
credit: @likeitsimple
What do you think of the “Cabriolet”? Do you like it too?
Thanks for reading.
Best, Emmanuel
About the Patek Philippe Gondolo Ref. 5099
The Patek Philippe Reference 5099 is a limited-edition cabriolet-style wristwatch, drawing inspiration from a historical Patek Philippe timepiece from the late 1920s. This reference is notable for its unique reversible case design, allowing the watch to be worn with either the dial facing outwards or the solid case back presented, protecting the crystal. It represents a modern interpretation of a classic Patek Philippe design, appealing to collectors interested in historically inspired pieces with a distinctive mechanical feature.
The case of the 5099RG is crafted from 18k rose gold, featuring a rectangular shape that articulates the cabriolet mechanism. The watch is powered by a manual-winding mechanical movement, consistent with the traditional watchmaking ethos often found in Patek Philippe's more specialized or limited productions. The crystal protecting the dial is sapphire, ensuring durability and clarity.
This reference appeals to collectors who appreciate Patek Philippe's heritage and its ability to reinterpret historical designs with contemporary craftsmanship. The cabriolet function offers a unique wearing experience and a conversation piece, distinguishing it from more conventional timepieces in the brand's catalog. Its limited production further enhances its desirability among discerning collectors.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal. 215
- Case
- 18k rose gold
- Diameter
- 29 x 41 mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Water Resist.
- 25 m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Gondolo Ref. 5099RG-001
The Patek Philippe Reference 5099RG-001 is a distinctive cabriolet-style wristwatch, drawing inspiration from historical Patek Philippe designs, particularly a museum piece from the late 1920s. This reference is notable for its hinged case, allowing the watch to be flipped over to protect the dial or to display the case back. It represents a niche offering within Patek Philippe's diverse catalog, appealing to collectors who appreciate mechanical ingenuity and historical design cues over more common round or tonneau forms.
This specific model features an 18k rose gold case measuring 30mm x 43mm with a thickness of 9.8mm. It houses the manual-wind Caliber 215 PS movement, which provides a power reserve of 44 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal and offers a water resistance of 30 meters. The dial is silver, complemented by an alligator leather strap.
The 5099RG-001 appeals to collectors seeking a Patek Philippe with a unique aesthetic and a connection to the brand's early 20th-century design heritage. Its cabriolet function adds a layer of mechanical interest and historical charm. While not a mainstream model, its specialized design and limited production contribute to its appeal among connoisseurs of horological artistry and mechanical innovation.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Caliber 215 PS
- Case
- 18k rose gold
- Diameter
- 30mm x 43mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
