Miranda's comprehensive review of Patek Philippe's 2022 Watches and Wonders novelties offers an invaluable, collector-focused perspective. Her detailed analysis, accompanied by live photographs, highlights key innovations and aesthetic updates across several important references. This article serves as an essential resource for understanding Patek Philippe's strategic direction and horological advancements from that year.
It was a
fantastic year for Patek Philippe, with the release of new references and the
introduction of a fantastic new complication.
Let us begin
with the new Calatrava reference 5226 and the new novel complication combining
for the first an annual calendar with home time (dual time) complication, with
the reference 5326. Bothe references for now, are in white gold. The cases as you
are most likely already aware feature a unique novelty, in that the Clous de
Paris decoration on the case band goes all around the case. This has been made
possible by integrating the lugs with the case back. The dials feature a unique
pattern- inspired by the cameras of old from Leica. This was stimulated by one of
Msr Thierry Stern’s friends who is an avid camera collector. The ref. 5326
features eight new patents and allows the calendar to be adjusted from the crown-
both forwards and backwards. The calendar is driven by the local time hour
wheel. The movement uses the base calibre from the inline perpetual calendar
launched last year and also has a platinum rotor.
Next, the updated world time models 5230p and 5231g. The references 5230r and 5230g have given way to the magnificent (and my favourite of the year) ref. 5230p. It has a monochrome appearance as the date ring has been done in the same colour as the centre - which now features the same guilloche pattern as the iconic ref 5110p. In my opinion the new aesthetic is absolutely stunning. The 5231 for the first time features Australasia and New Zealand is for the first time ever on a world time! The finish of the cloisonne enamel dial is like the 5131G. It is a sublime piece of artistry.
Green dials continue to make their presence felt. The 5270p has been updated with a new lacquered green dial with a black gradient rim. The pictures do not do this dial justice. Its breath taking in the real. The same can be said for the new 5205R, that Olive green dial is so perfect in that rose gold case it belies belief. Honestly this literally blows your mind- its a hole in one moment.
Time for fishing- lets catch some salmon. Lets start with the 5320. The model is totally transformed. Its not just a dial change- it really looks like a new watch completely. I can not describe how different it looks with the new dial. The rose-gilt opaline dial in my opinion matches the historical case much better. Then there is the chrono- once again its incredible how the new dial changes it- its a total metamorphosis and again it suits the vintage style of the watch far better. The blue is still available, but honestly there is no competition. The observant ones will see that the new salmon dial has new luminous dots at the 4 and 8 markers- this makes the dial far more balanced.
Finally, the new ladies world time features also an olive dial. Again a very attractive combination, that really works superbly. Its another aesthetic bomb.
So overall a brilliant Showing from Patek.
Best Imran
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5130
The Patek Philippe Complications reference 5130, introduced in 2006, is a World Time watch that succeeded the popular reference 5110. This model maintained the distinctive World Time complication, allowing for simultaneous display of time in 24 different time zones. Its design evolved with a slightly larger case and updated dial aesthetics, distinguishing it from its predecessor while retaining the core functionality that defines Patek Philippe's travel timepieces. It was produced until 2017.
The watch features an 18k rose gold case measuring 39.5mm in diameter and 9.8mm in thickness, housing the self-winding Caliber 240 HU movement. This ultra-thin movement, visible through a sapphire crystal case back, provides a power reserve of 48 hours. The dial is silver or opaline with a guilloché center, protected by a sapphire crystal. Water resistance is rated at 30 meters.
Reference 5130 appeals to collectors seeking a sophisticated travel complication from Patek Philippe. Its larger case size compared to the 5110 offered a more contemporary presence on the wrist, while its classic World Time mechanism remained a hallmark of the brand's technical prowess. The model was available in various precious metals, with the rose gold variant offering a warm aesthetic.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.240 HU
- Case
- 18k rose gold
- Diameter
- 39.5mm
- Dial
- Silver / opaline guilloché
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5131
The Patek Philippe Complications reference 5131 is a World Time model, distinguished by its cloisonné enamel dial depicting a map of the world. This reference is part of a series that showcases Patek Philippe's expertise in both horological complications and traditional decorative arts, offering a functional travel watch with significant aesthetic appeal. It represents a continuation of the brand's long-standing tradition of producing World Time watches, updated with contemporary design elements and a self-winding movement. The 5131 is recognized for its intricate dial work, which varies depending on the specific metal and region depicted.
The watch features a 39.5mm case, available in various precious metals, housing the self-winding Caliber 240 HU. This movement provides a power reserve of 48 hours and drives the World Time complication, allowing the wearer to simultaneously view the time in 24 different time zones. The case is fitted with a sapphire crystal, ensuring durability and clear visibility of the detailed dial. Water resistance is rated at 30 meters, suitable for everyday wear. The fixed bezel frames the intricate dial, contributing to the watch's refined profile.
As a World Time model with a cloisonné dial, the 5131 appeals to collectors who appreciate both technical sophistication and artisanal craftsmanship. Its limited production and the unique hand-finished nature of each dial contribute to its desirability within the secondary market. The reference fits into Patek Philippe's Complications collection as a high-end travel watch, offering a distinctive alternative to more traditional time-only or chronograph models. Variants typically involve different precious metal cases and corresponding enamel map depictions.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.240 HU
- Case
- yellow gold
- Diameter
- 39.5mm
- Dial
- blue
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5226
The Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 5226G-001, introduced in 2022, presents a contemporary interpretation of the classic Calatrava design. This model is distinguished by its textured dial and a case design that integrates the strap lugs seamlessly, offering a cohesive aesthetic. It represents an evolution in the Calatrava line, moving towards a more modern and robust appearance while retaining the collection's characteristic purity of form. The reference was launched alongside the Annual Calendar Travel Time reference 5326G-001, sharing certain design cues.
Crafted in white gold, the case of the 5226G-001 features a hobnail pattern on its flanks, a detail that adds a subtle texture without detracting from its overall understated presence. The watch is powered by the self-winding caliber 26-330 S C, a movement known for its reliability and slim profile, visible through a sapphire crystal case back. This caliber provides a power reserve suitable for daily wear and includes a date display and sweep seconds.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking a modern Calatrava with distinctive design elements. Its white gold case and unique dial texture set it apart from more traditional Calatrava models, offering a fresh perspective on a foundational Patek Philippe collection. The integration of the hobnail pattern, traditionally found on bezels, into the case band provides a subtle nod to Patek Philippe's heritage while presenting a contemporary execution.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 26-330 S C
- Case
- White Gold
- Diameter
- 40
- Dial
- Black textured
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Complications Ref. 5231
The Patek Philippe Complications Reference 5231 is a world time watch, distinguished by its cloisonné enamel dial depicting a specific region of the world. This reference continues the tradition of Patek Philippe's world time complications, offering a practical and visually engaging display of multiple time zones simultaneously. It represents a specific aesthetic within the Complications collection, focusing on artistic craftsmanship alongside its mechanical functionality.
This reference features a case typically crafted from precious metals, housing an automatic movement. The case diameter is designed to provide a balanced presence on the wrist while allowing for the detailed dial work. A sapphire crystal protects the dial, offering clear visibility of the intricate enamel map and the city ring. The movement provides a reliable power reserve, consistent with Patek Philippe's standards for its automatic calibers.
For collectors, the 5231 is notable for its limited production and the unique hand-finished cloisonné enamel dials, which vary in their geographical depiction. These variations make each specific iteration of the 5231 a distinct piece within the broader Patek Philippe catalog. It appeals to those who appreciate both high horology and artisanal decorative techniques, fitting into a lineage of artistically enhanced world time watches.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 240 HU
- Case
- 18k yellow gold
- Diameter
- 38.5mm
- Dial
- Cloisonné enamel
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5326
The Patek Philippe reference 5326G-001 is a significant introduction combining an Annual Calendar with a Travel Time function, presented within the Calatrava collection. This reference stands out for its innovative integration of two highly practical complications, marking a notable evolution in Patek Philippe's approach to combining utility with classic design principles. It represents a sophisticated option for collectors seeking advanced functionality in a refined, everyday wearable timepiece, distinguishing it from simpler Calatrava models.
This timepiece features a white gold case, housing the self-winding caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H. The movement provides an Annual Calendar, displaying the day, date, and month, alongside a Travel Time mechanism with local and home time indication and a day/night display for both time zones. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, offering a clear view of the dial and protecting the intricate mechanics.
The 5326G-001 appeals to collectors who value technical innovation and practical complications. Its combination of an Annual Calendar and Travel Time in a single watch offers a compelling proposition for frequent travelers or those who appreciate comprehensive timekeeping functions. The design maintains the understated elegance characteristic of the Calatrava line, making it a versatile addition to a collection.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H
- Case
- White gold
- Diameter
- 41 mm
- Dial
- Charcoal gray, granulated
- Water Resist.
- 30 m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
