Paul Gerber x Arita Porcelain Dials

Ornatus-Mundi · 2014-03-24T05:57:39Z

Discover Paul Gerber's collaboration with Japanese Arita porcelain, creating ultra-thin dials for connoisseur-grade timepieces. Explore Kakiemon style.

Ornatus-Mundi

WPS member · Independents forum

6 replies8246 views10 photos

Ornatus-Mundi presents a fascinating collaboration between master watchmaker Paul Gerber and Japanese porcelain manufacturer Arita. This article delves into the historical significance of Arita porcelain, its unique Kakiemon style, and how this ancient craft is being revitalized through ultra-thin watch dials. It offers a rare glimpse into the intersection of traditional Japanese artistry and high-end independent watchmaking.

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Zurich-based master watchmaker Paul Gerber - affectionately referred to as the 'master of miniaturisation' - and the Japanese porcelain manufacturer Arita join forces to present a very low-volume series of connoisseur-grade handmade timepieces with ultra-thin porcelain dials - exclusive here at PuristSPro.com we already have live pics of these masterpieces:

Many of you know established European porcelain produces like Meissen, Augarten and others, while creations of asian descent are much less known (with some Chinese vases as exception). Astonishing since the craft of porcelain manufacturing and decoration clearly has asian origins:

It was from the japanese manufacturer Arita, located on the island of Kyushu in the southwestern part of the country, where the foundations of the famous Meissen porcelain has to be found: It was in 1701 when August The Strong, Elector of Saxony, successfully commissioned the establishment of porcelain manufacturing in Dresden. Role model and example should be the creations of the master potters from Arita, who's products were aguishly admired and collected by August The Strong.

The key indications are indigo blue, still today the most favourite colour used in Arita, as well as the so-called Kakiemon-style where strong red colours are fired into opaque white surfaces (image source: Wikipedia):

"The Japanese potter Sakaida Kakiemon (???????, 1596–1666) is popularly credited with being one of the first in Japan to discover the secret of enamel decoration on porcelain, known as 'akae'. The name "Kakiemon" was bestowed upon Sakaida by his lord, after he perfected a design of twin persimmons (kaki), developing as well the distinctive palette of soft red, yellow, blue and turquoise green now associated with the Kakiemon style.
…
Kakiemon decoration is usually of high quality, delicate and with asymmetric well-balanced designs. These were sparsely applied to emphasise the fine white porcelain background body known in Japan as nigoshide (milky white) which was used for the finest pieces. Kakiemon wares are usually painted with birds, flying squirrels, the "Quail and Millet" design, the "Three Friends of Winter" (pine, plum, and bamboo), flowers (especially the chrysanthemum, the national flower of Japan) and figural subjects such as the popular "Hob in the Well", illustrating a Chinese folk tale where a sage saves his friend who has fallen into a large fishbowl." [Wikipedia entry on Kakiemon ]

Today, Meissen porcelain is famous throughout there world, while the producers in Arita, who can look back at almost 400 years of tradition, are fighting for their bare existence. Cheap competition from other Asian countries are the main reason for the downward trend which - in only 20 years - led to a closure of more than 50% of the manufacturers, with annual turn-over slash to only 1/7.

But the craft is still practices in Arita: One of the most active and innovative firms is the one by Keizou Ishikawa, who recognised that finding innovative niches instead of price-wars is the key to survival. Thus he partnered with Paul Gerber to produce a small series of timepieces adorned with ultra-thin porcelain dials. Creating these dials invites to a journey through time back to the century of August The Strong: There is a wood-fuelled oven, and the master potters and painters are using still the same century-old techniques.

The results are masterfully created, thin porcelain dials with finely detailed ornaments of stylised flora and fauna - of course featuring the signature indigo blue and the colourful reds:

What strikes me most is the incredible thinness of the dials: altogether the dials (diameter 33.40mm) are only 0.60mm inclusive of hand-applied paint. To put it into perspective: a standard metal dial has a thickness of 0.50mm, or in ultra-flat watches 0.40mm, and 'common' smaller (31mm diameter) porcelain dials are usually around 0.92mm thick.

Says Paul Gerber: "The extreme thinness of the dial really astonished me. I was afraid of breakage. Thus I decided to create a floating suspension for the dials to reduce the risk of fatal pressure. I performed several drop tests where let encased dials drop from one meter onto my wooden floor. I did that several times, the dials always passed."

Altogether three different dials are created and encase in either red or white gold:

The watches are driven by Paul Gerber's proprietary Triple Rotor Cal. 42 (based opon ETA 2824-2):

The rotors come in assorted colours matching the case material. For those of you not familiar with the system, the specific shape of the rotors and the centrally located wheel ensure that the rotors, despite their overall ping radii, will never touch each other:

In summary, I think one of the most beautiful Paul Gerber watches ever created, very delicate in design and execution, produced in a joint effort of two masters of miniaturisation: Paul Gerber (watch artistry), and Arita (porcelain artistry):

Much more after the Basel shows!

Cheers,

Magnus

P.S.: Special thanks to Paul Gerber for taking the extra time to shoot the watches, and to Arita for granting express permission to publish these images exclusively here on PuristSPro.com!

This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2014-03-24 07:54:22

Key Points from the Discussion

The bright blue hands on the Paul Gerber watches appear to be fired enamel, suggesting a high level of craftsmanship and drawing comparisons to Glashütte Original watches with Meissen dials.
Paul Gerber's work, particularly his collaboration with Arita, is highly admired, with one contributor recalling his earlier work for Perrelet and expressing strong appreciation for the beauty of these new watches.
The watches, especially the chrysanthemum design, are seen as highly wearable and desirable, evoking specific cultural contexts like Japan's Hanabi season.
The pieces are described as sublime in their beauty and execution, reinforcing Paul Gerber's reputation for exceptional watchmaking.

The Discussion

jrwong23 (aka watchthebin)

Mar 24, 2014

Thanks Magnus for this update. I have always admired Paul Gerber (I first got to hear of him via his work for Perrelet many years ago when he helped them launch the brand with an LE double rotor). These watches are beautiful beyond description and I really love what I'm seeing. Do you know the case size? Anyway will wait for more reports from Basel Cheers Robin

SALMANPK

Mar 24, 2014

I always admired watches from Paul Gerber and these pieces are just sublime in their beauty and execution. S

Spellbound

Mar 24, 2014

I would gladly wear one of these. Would be especially nice to wear during Hanabi season where we go down to the riverside to see the fireworks, girlfriend wearing a colourful yukata, and me wearing one of these.... I especially like the first chrysanthemum one. Thanks for posting. Looking forward to seeing them. Dean

Ares501 - Mr Green

Mar 24, 2014

Truly fantastic news Sincerely D

Marcus Hanke

Mar 25, 2014

The bright blue of the hands, especially on one pic suggests that they are not only lacquered, but they appear to have a coat of fired enamel. Is this correct? A highly interesting and facinating subject and execution, which of course suggests to be compared with the well-known GO watches featuring hand-painted Meissen dials: In spite of the GO's Eastern-ish style, the differences are rather evident. It is wonderful that this rare art is combined with Paul Gerber's skills. Marcus

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