Independents
AndrewD's article offers a captivating glimpse into the world of independent watchmaker Paul Gerber, renowned as the 'master of miniaturization.' This piece is essential for understanding Gerber's unique approach to horology, from his early work on miniature clocks to his innovative P10 and Model 42 watches, showcasing his distinct blend of tradition and ingenuity.
[In this series of vignettes I will highlight a few of the key points that the independent watchmakers made during their presentations on Day 3 (June 1) of the IGOTT. Some are direct quotes that tickled my fancy, and others give you an insight into the watches presented.]
Paul Gerber
Introduced by MTF as: "the master of miniaturisation."
Started working for himself in 1976 making miniature clocks, restoring pieces for auction houses and building watches for friends.
Paul has worked for many companies and on many projects, most of which cannot be openly discussed. The Glashütte Original Flying Tourbillon is an example that can be mentioned.
The P10 watch is based on his ETA Cal. 42. "I thought to myself: what can I make special. I tried to make the dial something different. I engraved the dial with my own design."
"1 of 10" is engraved on the movement. Blued screws. Perlage. Salmon leather strap to match the titanium case. Black superluminova.
"I think it's a watch for everyday."
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Paul, his wife Ruth, and Michel Schmutz, US Importer and long time friend ...
Several PuristS were wearing their Paul Gerber watches at IGOTT2, so these images are a mixture of watches that Paul was displaying, and those already owned. I had the pleasure of trying on several ... The Retro Twin (Ref. 157) was introduced in 2001. It features Pauls' patented double oscillating synchronous platinum rotors and retrograde seconds hand. Contrasting with my 34mm Omega Constellation ... Lovely depth in the movement, and the finish on the plates and rotors, and the blued screws, re
This is a very special watch, but at first glance only the spherical moon (measuring 6mm in diameter) gives it away. Inside beats the Cal. 33 in-house movement with Paul's own unidirectional impulse escapement. There is a large screwed balance wheel, screwed chatons and 18K rose gold gearing. Th Model 33 was introduced in 2004 and was the first to use a spherical moonphase.The moon is made of blue lapis lazuli and half the sphere is covered in (54) diamonds. The moon is visible from the rear of
The 42mm steel-cased Model 41 was on display with switchable, alternating continuous and dead seconds displays controlled by the button at 2 o'clock. This wach has a 100 hour in-house automatic movement with Paul's triple-rotor system. Andrew
The Model 42 is Paul's take on the sports watch. It is light (in titanium), and wearable with excellent legibility at 42mm and with an enlarged date wheel. While the movement is based on the ETA 2824-2 workhorse, Paul has added his synchronised 3-rotor system with rotors made from 18K rose gold. The signed buckle is in titanium as well. Delivery aluminium case ... Model 42 Synchron with green superluminova and matching stitching ... The Model 41 (left) with the Model 42 Pilot's watch with aviato
Limited Edition of 10 pieces (sold out). Based on the Model 42 with a 42mm titanium case, the P10 PuristS tenth-anniversary watch receives a special engraved dial with the "PuristS" logo designed by Paul and executed in his Atelier. There is a matching enlarged date disk and the hands, date and numerals receive black super-luminova. The strap is hand made from salmon leather in a colour chosen to complement the case. The base ETA 2824-2 movement has Paul's patented synchronised triple-rotor auto
I enjoyed your coverage of all the Independents very much!! That aluminium delivery watch box is really something! Love it!
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