Philippe Narbel: Independent Watchmaker Profile

cazalea · 2024-05-11T20:31:45Z

Explore Philippe Narbel's exquisite independent watchmaking, from his AP background to his unique inner angles and skeletonized movements. A WatchProSite exclusive.

cazalea

WPS member · Independents forum

23 replies5090 views11 photos

Cazalea offers an exclusive look into the world of independent watchmaking, introducing readers to Philippe Narbel, a master decorator and skeletonizer. This article highlights Narbel's journey from Audemars Piguet to establishing his own atelier, focusing on his unique approach to movement decoration and the creation of his distinctive timepieces. Cazalea's firsthand account provides a rare glimpse into the artistry behind Narbel's work, particularly his signature inner angles.

A few days ago I had the privilege of joining with other watch enthusiasts for an evening of pizza and drinks, to meet Philippe Narbel and see one of his own-design watches.

Philippe lives in L'Abbaye, near the Valle de Joux and has been involved the jewelry and watch business more than 20 years in various positions, most notably as an jeweler, assembler, then decorator, and skeletonizer for AP.

He now works as a consultant, teaching others how to decorate movements (the reason for his trip to the USA), and having started his own independent atelier, is demonstrating what he can do using a movement of his own design, which features lots of inner angles "just because they are beautiful, difficult and no machine can do this."

This is a stainless steel outer case with a gold movement, and utilizes bridges, plates, hands, etc. designed and decorated by Philippe.

I'm sorry the pictures aren't better; I blame it on the bright lights, pizza and Cabernet...

We enjoyed a short lecture with questions and answers by Tim Jackson and Philippe, with help from translator Rosie.

Philippe decided as a foundation he could use the basic gear train from the Peseaux 7001. It's also employed by Blancpain in this Chronometer,and in many other slim dress watches.

Using this basic structure and dimensions (notice the layout of the balance and the 4 ruby jewels) he built his plates and case. The first iteration a few years ago looked like this:

to black and gold. Notice the independent bridges, reminiscent of a pocket watch movement. In addition to the single screw, there is a hidden pin on each which helps align the bridge precisely.

and skeletonized:

To fully gold and skeletonized.

The real thing:

Strap color optional, movement materials, color, case, etc. all open to customer choice. Delivery times around 6 months. Prices 50-80k CHF range.

What do you think?

VIDEO

Key Points from the Discussion

Philippe Narbel's extensive experience at Audemars Piguet, particularly in their decoration department and working with the developer of the Royal Oak double balancer squelette, profoundly influenced his classical skeletonizing approach and the creation of his SKEL-1 model.
The finishing, anglage, and beveling on Narbel's movements are considered among the best globally, demonstrating a level of perfection that some suggest could place him alongside watchmakers like Philippe Dufour if his designs were more classically restrained.
The watch design, particularly the case, appears to be secondary to the movement, serving primarily to frame and showcase Narbel's intricate decoration and skeletonization work.
While the specific design might not appeal to all, the craftsmanship involved in anglage is highly respected, especially by those who have attempted it and understand the difficulty of achieving crisp, mirror-smooth surfaces.
Philippe Narbel is described as a humble individual despite his extraordinary skill and dedication to his passion, making the evening's presentation particularly engaging.
Narbel's use of the Peseaux 7001 gear train as a foundation for his own-design movement, which features independent bridges reminiscent of pocket watch movements, showcases his innovative approach to traditional watchmaking.

The Discussion

AuHavrePro

May 11, 2024

Obviously, there's a heck of a lot of brilliant choices in that price range - the competition is especially stiff.... Thank you so much for taking the time to present this work, and his story to us. Cheers, Filip

May 11, 2024

Not sure about the strap, however. M4

Mitch K

May 11, 2024

I certainly would not have done any justice to it should I have tried. It was an interesting evening to be sure. Philippe is a very interesting person. He is dedicated to his passion and is humble despite his amazing skill. The finishing and anglage work on the movement is top notch.

SALMANPK

May 11, 2024

Audemars Piguet Tradition Picture Source: Monochrome Watches S

AuHavrePro

May 11, 2024

that this is one of those instances where the watch itself is a 'slave' to the movement. Form follows function, the case is there to simply frame the movement effectively....

cazalea

May 11, 2024

Of course, it goes without saying that the JLC is perfection in a rectangular shape! Front Back So setting that aside, I just have actually have quite a few unconventional shapes:

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