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U3O8 initiates a nostalgic discussion, asking whether the iconic Rolex GMT-Master Pepsi bezel, specifically the 1675 reference, is best envisioned on an Oyster or Jubilee bracelet. This post delves into personal memories and historical observations, prompting collectors to share their preferences and insights on period-correct pairings.
When you close your eyes and think of the iconic Rolex GMT Master Pepsi bezel with creamy lume plots...do you think Oyster or Jubilee?
I remember the first Rolex watches I ever saw. On the inside covers or back cover of National Geographic Magazines. I would just stare at the GMT or the Submariner. I am lucky to own various reference models of both. I recently acquired a 50 year old 1675 Pepsi GMT. It has an oyster bracelet. It is almost done with a thorough servicing. And I'm debating whether to hunt for a time period appropriate jubilee bracelet. I can't decide. I remember the first actual Pepsi GMT I saw in the flesh belonged to a member of a royal family (he received that as a wedding gift from his wife...and it was already faded into a magenta and blue bezel) and it had a jubilee bracelet. I remember the watches in National Geographic had jubilee bracelets. I remember getting chased out of jewelry shops in London after asking to look at the Rolex GMT in the display case...and they had jubilee bracelets. I don't know if it is nostalgia or what? Anyway, I have a 16700 and a 116710 BLNR with Oyster bracelets, and a 126710 BLRO with a jubilee bracelet.
About the Rolex GMT Ref. 1675
The GMT-Master reference 1675 is a significant model in the brand's history, representing an evolution from earlier GMT-Master references. It was produced for an extended period, allowing for numerous dial, bezel, and hand variations throughout its production run. This reference is notable for its introduction of crown guards, enhancing the watch's robustness and contributing to its distinct profile. It solidified the GMT-Master's design language, which would influence subsequent generations.
This reference features a 40mm case, available in stainless steel, yellow gold, or a two-tone combination of steel and yellow gold. It is powered by the automatic Caliber 1575, a chronometer-certified movement known for its reliability and a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. The watch is fitted with an acrylic crystal and offers a water resistance of 50 meters, suitable for everyday wear. The bidirectional rotating bezel, typically with an aluminum insert, displays a 24-hour scale.
For collectors, the 1675 is highly sought after due to its long production period and the resulting variety of configurations, including different dial types (gilt, matte), hand styles, and bezel colors (Pepsi, all-red, all-black). Its four-digit reference number and acrylic crystal are key characteristics that define it as a vintage Rolex. The reference appeals to those interested in the historical development of the GMT-Master line and the nuances of vintage watch collecting.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal. 1575
- Case
- Yellow Gold
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 50m
- Crystal
- Acrylic
About the Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 16700
The GMT-Master reference 16700 was introduced as a transitional model, serving as a more traditional alternative to the then-new GMT-Master II reference 16710. It maintained the original GMT-Master functionality, allowing for the tracking of two time zones simultaneously through its independent 24-hour hand linked to the main hour hand. This reference represents the final iteration of the original GMT-Master line, preceding the full transition to the GMT-Master II architecture. It was produced concurrently with the early GMT-Master II models, offering a choice for collectors who preferred the simpler GMT mechanism.
This reference features a 40mm stainless steel case, characteristic of many Rolex professional models of its era. It is powered by the automatic Caliber 3175, which provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, enhancing its durability and scratch resistance, and offers a water resistance of 100 meters. The bidirectional rotating 24-hour bezel, often seen with a "Pepsi" (blue and red) or "Coke" (black and red) insert, allows for the tracking of a second time zone.
For collectors, the 16700 holds significance as the last of the true GMT-Master series, distinct from the GMT-Master II's independently adjustable 24-hour hand. Its production period, spanning from the late 1980s to the late 1990s, places it at an interesting juncture in Rolex's history. It appeals to those who appreciate the classic GMT-Master design and functionality, often sought after for its robust construction and the availability of various bezel insert options.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal. 3175
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 40 mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 100m
- Crystal
- Sapphire crystal
About the Rolex Rolex 116710 BLNR Ref. 116710
The Rolex GMT-Master II reference 116710BLNR, known by collectors as the "Batman," introduced a novel blue and black ceramic bezel to the GMT-Master II lineup. This was the first time Rolex combined two distinct colors on a single monobloc Cerachrom bezel, a significant technical achievement. The blue segment represents daylight hours, while the black segment denotes nighttime, aiding in tracking a second or third time zone.
This reference features a 40mm Oystersteel case, housing the automatic Caliber 3186 movement, which provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal with a Cyclops lens over the date display and is water-resistant to 100 meters. The black dial provides a contrasting backdrop for the Chromalight hour markers and hands.
Appealing to collectors interested in modern Rolex innovations and practical travel watches, the 116710BLNR quickly became a highly sought-after model. Its distinctive bezel color combination set it apart from previous GMT-Master II references and established a new aesthetic within the collection, preceding subsequent iterations with similar two-tone ceramic bezels.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal. 3186
- Case
- Oystersteel
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- black
- Water Resist.
- 100m
- Crystal
- Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
About the Rolex Rolex 126710 Ref. 126710
The Rolex GMT-Master II reference 126710 was introduced in 2018, marking a significant update to the GMT-Master II line. This reference is notable for reintroducing the Jubilee bracelet to the GMT-Master II collection, a feature previously associated with earlier GMT-Master models. It is distinguished by its Cerachrom bezel insert, available in specific color combinations, and the updated movement, enhancing its precision and functionality within the professional watch range.
This reference features a 40mm Oystersteel case, characteristic of Rolex's robust construction. It is equipped with the Caliber 3285, an automatic movement developed by Rolex, offering a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal and is water-resistant to 100 meters, ensuring durability and legibility under various conditions. The bidirectional rotatable 24-hour graduated bezel facilitates the tracking of multiple time zones.
The 126710 appeals to collectors interested in modern Rolex tool watches with historical design cues. Its introduction with the Jubilee bracelet provided a new aesthetic option for the GMT-Master II, complementing the existing Oyster bracelet variants. The availability of different bezel color combinations, such as the blue and red "Pepsi" or black and blue "Batman" (also known as "Batgirl" when paired with the Jubilee bracelet), further defines its place within the contemporary Rolex catalog.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.3285
- Case
- Oystersteel
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- black
- Water Resist.
- 100m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
Key Points from the Discussion
- Both Oyster and Jubilee bracelets are considered correct for the Rolex GMT-Master 1675. The key is to find a bracelet with a clasp date stamp that is appropriate for the watch's production period.
- While the 6542 GMT-Master was likely originally equipped with a riveted Oyster, the Jubilee bracelet was offered very early on. Many collectors, including Subexplorer, express a personal preference for the Jubilee on GMT models due to its comfort and aesthetic.
- Historical evidence, such as photos of jazz musician Dizzy Gillespie wearing his GMT 6542 with both Jubilee and Oyster bracelets, suggests flexibility in original pairings.
- There is some debate regarding whether the very first GMT-Master reference, the 6542, was ever originally offered with a Jubilee bracelet, with some members recalling only Oyster bracelets in early catalogs.
- Many collectors associate the Jubilee bracelet with the classic image of the GMT-Master, even if they prefer Oyster bracelets on other Rolex models.
- The discussion compares the Rolex GMT-Master 1675 and 6542 with modern references like the 16700, 116710 BLNR, and 126710 BLRO, highlighting bracelet preferences across different generations of the GMT-Master.
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