Miranda delves into the controversial 50th-anniversary Rolex Sea-Dweller, examining its introduction at Baselworld and the divisive addition of the Cyclops lens. The article traces the Sea-Dweller's lineage from its revolutionary 1967 debut, highlighting its historical significance as a pinnacle of Rolex's diving watch expertise.
Since its launch at Baselworld, the Sea Dweller 50th anniversary has courted controversy. Perhaps not helped by leaks prior to the official release, the introduction of the Cyclops is probably the most divisive development of the Sea Dweller yet.
First introduced in 1967, the Sea Dweller was the pinnacle of Rolexβs expertise and know how in the development of divers watches. Considering it was less the a decade and a half earlier that the first divers professional pieces were introduced with the references 6202 and 6204, rapidly followed by the 6200 with the larger Brevet crown- the precursor to the triplock crown, the 1665 was revolutionary watch. It featured a helium escape valve, developed in conjunction with Comex an Doxa. The first valves were seen in the Comex only ref 5513.
By the time the 1665 was developed, the now familiar 40mm case with crown guards and large crown was well established. The 1665 first introduced a date (the Submariner Date was launched in 1969) as well as the HEV.
I can imagine that the introduction of date had it happened today would have rattled a few feathers!! In essence the 1665 was a culmination of all the progress that Rolex had made in the preceding years.
In many respects the new anniversary model follows in its illustrious forefathers footsteps. It is a bringing together of all new technologies, seen with the Deepsea and its new larger case and brilliant bracelet, the ceramic bezel and now a Cyclops because the technology allows it. The anniversary model is a true homage to the history of the Rolex divers watch, with nuances from famous pieces, the red writing (probably more famous from the Red sub 1680 than the early prototype Sea Dweller), the military 5517 inspired bezel, the HEV from the 1665.
It is all the knowledge and know how melded in to one piece.
It is perhaps the perfect modern day Rolex diver.
Best
Imran
About the Rolex Ref. 5517
The Rolex Submariner reference 5517 is a rare and specialized variant of the Submariner line, distinguished by its unique dial and bezel configurations. This reference was not a standard production model available to the general public, setting it apart from other Submariner references of its era. Its specific characteristics cater to a particular collecting niche interested in purpose-built timepieces. The 5517 is often associated with a very limited distribution, contributing to its scarcity and distinct identity within the broader Submariner family. It represents a specific chapter in the development of Rolex's professional tool watches.
This reference typically features a stainless steel case, consistent with the robust construction of the Submariner series. The movement is an automatic mechanical caliber, designed for reliability and accuracy. The crystal is made of Plexiglas, a common material for Rolex watches from this period, providing durability and a classic aesthetic. The case dimensions are characteristic of vintage Submariners, offering a balanced presence on the wrist. The watch was engineered for water resistance, a fundamental attribute of the Submariner model.
For collectors, the 5517 holds significant appeal due to its extreme rarity and specific design elements, which differentiate it from more common Submariner references like the 5513. Its limited availability and specialized nature make it a highly sought-after piece for those focusing on unique and historically significant Rolex variants. The distinct dial markings and bezel insert are key identifiers for this reference, making it a focal point for advanced collectors seeking to complete comprehensive Submariner collections. Its place in the lineage of Rolex tool watches is defined by its specific, non-commercial origins.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 1520
- Case
- Stainless Steel
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 200m
- Crystal
- Plexiglas
About the Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513
The Rolex Submariner reference 5513 is a notable example within the Submariner line, distinguished by its two-line dial and lack of a date complication. Produced for an extended period, it represents a core offering for collectors seeking a straightforward and robust tool watch. Its design emphasizes legibility and functionality, aligning with the original purpose of the Submariner series. This reference is recognized for its consistent aesthetic throughout its production run, with subtle variations in dial text and bezel inserts.
The watch features a 40mm stainless steel Oyster case, offering durability and water resistance suitable for its intended use. Powering the reference 5513 is the automatic Caliber 1520 movement, known for its reliability. The crystal is acrylic, contributing to the vintage character of the watch. The unidirectional rotating bezel, typically with an aluminum insert, allows for elapsed time measurement.
For collectors, the reference 5513 is a significant model due to its long production history and the various dial iterations, such as gilt and matte dials, which present distinct collecting opportunities. Its appeal lies in its foundational design and its position as a non-date Submariner, making it a desirable piece for those who appreciate the model's original form. The watch is often paired with an Oyster bracelet, completing its functional aesthetic.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.1520
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- Black gilt
- Water Resist.
- 200m
- Crystal
- Acrylic
About the Rolex Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 1680
The Rolex Submariner reference 1680 is notable as the first Submariner model to feature a date complication, marking a significant evolution for the line. Introduced in the late 1960s, it bridged the gap between the earlier no-date Submariners and later iterations, offering enhanced functionality while retaining the robust characteristics of the professional tool watch. This reference is distinguished by its single cyclops date magnifier on the crystal, a feature that would become a hallmark of many subsequent Rolex models.
This reference typically features a 40mm steel case, housing the self-winding Caliber 1575 movement. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. The crystal is acrylic, commonly referred to as Plexiglas, contributing to its vintage aesthetic. Water resistance for the 1680 is rated at 200 meters, consistent with its design as a reliable underwater instrument.
For collectors, the reference 1680 is highly sought after, particularly early examples with "Red Submariner" dials where the word "Submariner" is printed in red. These variants represent a distinct period in Rolex's production history and are prized for their rarity and aesthetic appeal. The 1680 appeals to those who appreciate the blend of historical significance, functional design, and the tangible qualities of vintage Rolex manufacturing.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.1575
- Case
- steel
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- black
- Water Resist.
- 200m
- Crystal
- Acrylic (Plexiglas)
About the Rolex Ref. 5514
The Rolex Submariner reference 5514 is a specialized variant of the Submariner line, produced exclusively for COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d'Expertises), a French industrial deep-sea diving company. This reference is distinguished by its unique helium escape valve, integrated into the left side of the case, a feature not found on standard Submariner models of its era. It represents a purpose-built tool watch designed for professional saturation divers, setting it apart from other Submariner references intended for broader commercial release. Its limited production and specific client make it a notable piece within the brand's history of professional watches.
The case of the reference 5514 is crafted from stainless steel, typically measuring 40mm in diameter. It houses an automatic movement, likely the Rolex Caliber 1520 or 1530, known for its robustness and reliability. The watch is fitted with a Plexiglas crystal, consistent with Rolex sports models from the mid-20th century, providing durability and ease of maintenance in demanding environments. The helium escape valve is a key technical modification, allowing accumulated helium to escape during decompression without damaging the watch crystal.
This reference appeals to collectors interested in specialized Rolex tool watches and those with a focus on professional diving equipment. Its association with COMEX and the presence of the helium escape valve make it a distinct and highly sought-after model. Variants often include dials with the COMEX logo, further emphasizing its unique provenance. The 5514 occupies a specific niche, representing a period when Rolex collaborated directly with professional organizations to develop watches tailored for extreme conditions.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 1520/1530
- Case
- Stainless Steel
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 200m
- Crystal
- Plexiglass
About the Rolex 1665 Ref. 1665
The Rolex Sea-Dweller reference 1665 is a significant model within the brand's professional tool watch lineage, distinguished by its enhanced water resistance compared to contemporary Submariner models. This reference was developed to meet the demands of professional saturation divers, featuring a helium escape valve (HEV) integrated into the case side, a key differentiator from other Rolex dive watches of its era. It represents a period of innovation in deep-sea horology, offering a robust solution for extreme underwater environments.
This reference features a 40 mm stainless steel case, designed for durability and resistance to high pressures. It is powered by the automatic Caliber 1575, a chronometer-certified movement known for its reliability and precision, offering a power reserve of approximately 42 to 48 hours. The watch is fitted with an acrylic crystal, contributing to its water resistance rating of 610 meters, and typically features a black dial with luminous hour markers.
For collectors, the reference 1665 is notable for its functional design and its place in the evolution of professional dive watches. Early examples, often referred to as "Double Red Sea-Dweller" (DRSD) due to two lines of red text on the dial, are particularly sought after. Later versions feature all-white text. The presence of the helium escape valve and its robust construction make it a distinct and historically important piece for those interested in the development of specialized timekeeping instruments.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal. 1575
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 40 mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 610m
- Crystal
- Acrylic