Miranda delves into the controversial 50th-anniversary Rolex Sea-Dweller, examining its introduction at Baselworld and the divisive addition of the Cyclops lens. The article traces the Sea-Dweller's lineage from its revolutionary 1967 debut, highlighting its historical significance as a pinnacle of Rolex's diving watch expertise.
Since its launch at Baselworld, the Sea Dweller 50th anniversary has courted controversy. Perhaps not helped by leaks prior to the official release, the introduction of the Cyclops is probably the most divisive development of the Sea Dweller yet.
First introduced in 1967, the Sea Dweller was the pinnacle of Rolexβs expertise and know how in the development of divers watches. Considering it was less the a decade and a half earlier that the first divers professional pieces were introduced with the references 6202 and 6204, rapidly followed by the 6200 with the larger Brevet crown- the precursor to the triplock crown, the 1665 was revolutionary watch. It featured a helium escape valve, developed in conjunction with Comex an Doxa. The first valves were seen in the Comex only ref 5513.
By the time the 1665 was developed, the now familiar 40mm case with crown guards and large crown was well established. The 1665 first introduced a date (the Submariner Date was launched in 1969) as well as the HEV.
I can imagine that the introduction of date had it happened today would have rattled a few feathers!! In essence the 1665 was a culmination of all the progress that Rolex had made in the preceding years.
In many respects the new anniversary model follows in its illustrious forefathers footsteps. It is a bringing together of all new technologies, seen with the Deepsea and its new larger case and brilliant bracelet, the ceramic bezel and now a Cyclops because the technology allows it. The anniversary model is a true homage to the history of the Rolex divers watch, with nuances from famous pieces, the red writing (probably more famous from the Red sub 1680 than the early prototype Sea Dweller), the military 5517 inspired bezel, the HEV from the 1665.
It is all the knowledge and know how melded in to one piece.
It is perhaps the perfect modern day Rolex diver.
Best
Imran
About the Rolex great white Ref. 1665
The Rolex Reference 1665, known as the "Great White," is a specific iteration within its model family. This particular reference is distinct from the Reference 1680, which the collector notes as a separate model undergoing a makeover.
This example features a case described as being in good condition. The movement is a caliber 1570. The dial is a servicedial with Luminova, marked as a Tritium dial.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking specific variations within the Rolex lineup. The presence of a servicedial with Luminova, marked as Tritium, is a notable characteristic for those interested in dial variations.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 1570, 1575
- Case
- Stainless Steel
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 610m (2000ft)
- Crystal
- Acrylic
About the Rolex Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 1680
The Rolex Submariner reference 1680 is notable as the first Submariner model to feature a date complication, marking a significant evolution for the line. Introduced in the late 1960s, it bridged the gap between the earlier no-date Submariners and later iterations, offering enhanced functionality while retaining the robust characteristics of the professional tool watch. This reference is distinguished by its single cyclops date magnifier on the crystal, a feature that would become a hallmark of many subsequent Rolex models.
This reference typically features a 40mm steel case, housing the self-winding Caliber 1575 movement. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. The crystal is acrylic, commonly referred to as Plexiglas, contributing to its vintage aesthetic. Water resistance for the 1680 is rated at 200 meters, consistent with its design as a reliable underwater instrument.
For collectors, the reference 1680 is highly sought after, particularly early examples with "Red Submariner" dials where the word "Submariner" is printed in red. These variants represent a distinct period in Rolex's production history and are prized for their rarity and aesthetic appeal. The 1680 appeals to those who appreciate the blend of historical significance, functional design, and the tangible qualities of vintage Rolex manufacturing.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.1575
- Case
- steel
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- black
- Water Resist.
- 200m
- Crystal
- Acrylic (Plexiglas)
About the Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513
The Rolex Submariner reference 5513 is a specific iteration within the Submariner model line. This reference is recognized by collectors for its particular configuration and production period.
The case and movement details for this specific reference are not provided in the input facts. Therefore, no description of the case material, crystal type, or movement architecture can be offered.
This reference appeals to collectors interested in the Submariner line. Its position within the broader Rolex catalog is defined by its reference number and the characteristics associated with that specific production.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Rolex Caliber 1520 / 1530
- Case
- Stainless Steel
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- Black (Gilt or Matte)
- Water Resist.
- 200m
- Crystal
- Acrylic
About the Rolex Ref. 5514
The Rolex Submariner reference 5514 is a specialized variant of the Submariner line, produced exclusively for COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d'Expertises), a French industrial deep-sea diving company. This reference is distinguished by its unique helium escape valve, integrated into the left side of the case, a feature not found on standard Submariner models of its era. It represents a purpose-built tool watch designed for professional saturation divers, setting it apart from other Submariner references intended for broader commercial release. Its limited production and specific client make it a notable piece within the brand's history of professional watches.
The case of the reference 5514 is crafted from stainless steel, typically measuring 40mm in diameter. It houses an automatic movement, likely the Rolex Caliber 1520 or 1530, known for its robustness and reliability. The watch is fitted with a Plexiglas crystal, consistent with Rolex sports models from the mid-20th century, providing durability and ease of maintenance in demanding environments. The helium escape valve is a key technical modification, allowing accumulated helium to escape during decompression without damaging the watch crystal.
This reference appeals to collectors interested in specialized Rolex tool watches and those with a focus on professional diving equipment. Its association with COMEX and the presence of the helium escape valve make it a distinct and highly sought-after model. Variants often include dials with the COMEX logo, further emphasizing its unique provenance. The 5514 occupies a specific niche, representing a period when Rolex collaborated directly with professional organizations to develop watches tailored for extreme conditions.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 1520/1530
- Case
- Stainless Steel
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 200m
- Crystal
- Plexiglass
About the Rolex Ref. 5517
The Rolex Submariner reference 5517 is a rare and specialized variant of the Submariner line, distinguished by its unique dial and bezel configurations. This reference was not a standard production model available to the general public, setting it apart from other Submariner references of its era. Its specific characteristics cater to a particular collecting niche interested in purpose-built timepieces. The 5517 is often associated with a very limited distribution, contributing to its scarcity and distinct identity within the broader Submariner family. It represents a specific chapter in the development of Rolex's professional tool watches.
This reference typically features a stainless steel case, consistent with the robust construction of the Submariner series. The movement is an automatic mechanical caliber, designed for reliability and accuracy. The crystal is made of Plexiglas, a common material for Rolex watches from this period, providing durability and a classic aesthetic. The case dimensions are characteristic of vintage Submariners, offering a balanced presence on the wrist. The watch was engineered for water resistance, a fundamental attribute of the Submariner model.
For collectors, the 5517 holds significant appeal due to its extreme rarity and specific design elements, which differentiate it from more common Submariner references like the 5513. Its limited availability and specialized nature make it a highly sought-after piece for those focusing on unique and historically significant Rolex variants. The distinct dial markings and bezel insert are key identifiers for this reference, making it a focal point for advanced collectors seeking to complete comprehensive Submariner collections. Its place in the lineage of Rolex tool watches is defined by its specific, non-commercial origins.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 1520
- Case
- Stainless Steel
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 200m
- Crystal
- Plexiglas