In this insightful review, foversta, a respected voice in the luxury watch community, delves into the nuances of the Rolex Submariner 124060. Rather than a standard presentation, foversta articulates the deeply personal and horological reasons behind his acquisition, offering a fresh perspective on why this iconic diver continues to set the benchmark. His analysis focuses on the subtle yet significant design evolutions that distinguish the 124060 from its predecessors, particularly the "no date" variant.
Almost everything has been said about the Rolex Submariner 124060, the latest version of the most famous diving watch that was unveiled last September. So, rather than going into a classic presentation, I propose to explain the reasons that motivated the acquisition of this watch.
I had been wanting to buy a Submariner for some time. Even if I don't like the concept of a collection based on "iconic" watches because it often lacks personality and originality, the Submariner had always attracted me by its apparent simplicity, its efficiency and because it has always been, in all its variations and generations, the reference of the diving watch. The reference is simply the watch that serves as a benchmark and a point of comparison for all the others in the same segment. In my opinion, this status is indisputable because no matter how much I look at the competition, I find that the Submariner always has that little extra. One could simply say that this little extra is the Rolex myth, the brand image, its history... It's true and it counts a lot. But the Submariner is also simply the best in its category. What does that mean? After all, there are watches that offer the same performance at a lower price. Or others offer superior water-resistance, more intense luminescence etc... However, the Submariner is consistently distinguished by its versatility: it is one of the few watches basically dedicated to diving that can be worn in any circumstance including formal wear (especially when you consider the current water resistance of 300 meters). The Submariner has always been a stylistic success and I think this point is not emphasized enough.
The release of the reference 114060 which introduced the ceramic bezel had already caught my attention. Circumstances made that for several years I did not take the step. It was replaced a few months ago by the 124060 in the context of the renewal of the Submariner range by Rolex. First of all, you will notice that I only mention these references of the basic version without date. Because I had no doubt about the model I wished to buy: my clear preference, whatever the generation, goes towards simply the "Submariner" i.e. the "no date" version (a terminology which is not used by the way). The absence of date allows to obtain a perfectly balanced dial, a smooth glass and above all I have the feeling to apprehend a watch that goes to the essential. Finally, I don't forget the practical side: the absence of a date means that there is one less thing to adjust when you take the watch back after having spent several days without wearing it.
The reference 124060 was for me a revelation: it appeared very quickly as the one I liked the most among the recent models. It is all the know-how of Rolex. Taken separately, one notes very few differences between the 114060 and the 124060. Put side by side, the subtle aesthetic evolutions appear almost as obvious... The main perceptible change is the modification of the proportion between the lugs and the bracelet. The lugs are refined, the bracelet is widened. This change contributes greatly to the overall slimmer, more fluid aesthetic. Much has been said about the change in diameter between the two generations. But this change is much less ostensible. First of all, the difference between the diameter of the 114060 and the 124060 is closer to the half-millimeter than to the announced millimeter (41mm vs. 40mm) and especially Rolex has worked on the bezel to make the dial opening very close. The result is there: not only the 124060 doesn't seem bigger than its predecessor, but it also appeared to me as more refined and elegant.
Another point that is less mentioned is the presence of an anti-reflection coating on the inner surface of the glass. The will of Rolex is of course to improve the legibility in any circumstance. On my side, I see an additional aesthetic asset. Depending on the light conditions, the dial can take on a grey rather than black shade, which ideally matches the reflections of the ceramic bezel. I must say that I like this transition to grey that can occur and that gives a lot of charm to the watch.
As often with Rolex, the main change is not visible but it is crucial. As the small crown between the words "Swiss Made" at the base of the dial attests, the Submariner 124060 is powered by a new generation movement, the calibre 3230. This movement is obviously a declination of the calibre 3235 with date presented in 2015. Its main interest compared to the calibre 3130 used by the 114060 is its power reserve of 70 hours (for a frequency of 4hz) obtained thanks to an optimisation of the energy consumption thanks to the Chronergy escapement and to a barrel with a higher efficiency. This increase in the power reserve is for me a real plus because I do not wear my watches continuously. For the rest, the main technical features were already present in the previous calibre such as the blue paramagnetic Parachrom balance spring and the high performance Paraflex shock absorbers. Not surprisingly, the watch is certified as a Superlative Chronometer with a precision range of -2/+2 seconds and tested once assembled.
Finally, how can we not mention the pleasure that the Submariner 124060 brings once put on the wrist? And this is the most important! It is practical, comfortable thanks to its Oyster bracelet and its Oysterlock clasp. Its weight is ideal: it can be felt but as the watch is very well positioned on the wrist, it is firmly maintained. In the end, the feeling is very pleasant.
The last reason I want to give is perhaps the most important. Beyond all these aesthetic, technical and comfort criteria, when you buy a Rolex, you buy the most important element in a transaction: trust. And this is what makes Rolex so successful. How does this trust materialise? On several levels. Firstly, I have confidence in the quality of the movements, in their reliability, their precision and in the brand's ability to work on them even many years down the line. Secondly, I have no doubts about the durability of the company and I am certain that the brand will always be there, as it is today, in case of problems. I also know that when Rolex releases the evolution of the 124060, it will always be a desirable watch as the 114060 is today. Rolex is often criticized for being consistent in its designs. This is a false debate because in the end, this aesthetic perennity is sought after by the buyers. It is what gives this timeless dimension and allows the Submariner to cross the decades without getting old. Is there an old-fashioned Submariner watch? There is not. Finally, and this is a determining factor nowadays, the professional steel Rolexes and in particular this model ensure at least a maintenance of the value (and much more than that we all know) and an easy resale. A Rolex watch of this type is an asset that I describe as "liquid": buyers and transactions are numerous and selling such a watch is not a headache. I would like to make it clear that I have no intention of reselling this watch and I hope to keep it for the rest of my life. But subconsciously it gives a feeling of financial security which is not negligible.
So is the Rolex Submariner a perfect watch? I am not far from thinking so because the two main criticisms that can be made are exogenous factors. The first is the difficulty of obtaining the desired model. I understand the frustration of many enthusiasts who would like to acquire the Submariner with the sole objective of being able to wear this iconic piece and enjoy themselves. This gap between supply and demand might be bearable if the second-hand dealers were not supplied with new watches on a regular basis. And it is particularly this feeling of being passed over by the smart guys who want to make a buck that frustrates the sincere customer. I must admit that I don't see a solution to this situation and above all it is important to remember that the brand is not to blame: Rolex produces a lot and it is above all the quality of the products, the steering of the catalogue and the management of the brand image that generated the explosion of demand. To say that Rolex must produce more is not a serious remark. And what does producing more mean? Twice as much? Ten times more? The other criticism is the consequence of the financial dimension. It is simply becoming more and more difficult to wear a Rolex visibly. It is almost a problem of physical integrity in some areas. And the extreme caution that is required ends up spoiling the fun a bit.
But let's forget these considerations and get back to the simple emotions that a watch like the Submariner provides. As a watch lover, I like a watch made in a few pieces by a talented independent watchmaker as much as a famous watch made by the industry leader. Two conceptions of watchmaking, two ways of doing things, but in each case the concern to produce the best product that fully meets the expectations of the customers. What Rolex achieves by producing a large volume of watches with impeccable and consistent quality is far from simple. It is a success in terms of design, organisation and management. And as a customer, I can only appreciate the result. The Submariner brings me a great deal of satisfaction and in the end all these industrial and process considerations fade away in the face of the classic, efficient and seductive design of this versatile and timeless watch.
Fr.Xavier
