Tokyo Watch Exhibition: Urwerk, Moser, Speake-Marin

KIH · 2014-08-01T03:10:01Z

Explore the Tokyo Watch Exhibition featuring Urwerk EMC, H. Moser & Cie. perpetuals, and Speake-Marin. Insights on independent watchmaking innovation.

KIH

WPS member · Independents forum

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KIH provides an in-depth report from the Tokyo Watch Exhibition, showcasing independent watchmakers like Urwerk, H. Moser & Cie., Erwin Sattler, and Speake-Marin. The article offers a closer look at innovative pieces, including the Urwerk EMC with its unique electro-mechanical control system, and shares insights from interviews with representatives from Moser and Urwerk.

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As previously reported as a "preview", the Tokyo Watch Exhibition is now going on in Ark Hills in Akasaka. Here are some of the highlights I could not touch upon and short interviews with the gentlemen from both Moser and Urwerk.

Please make sure to read the report on the preview here:

ahci.watchprosite.com

At the special "club" on the top floor of the Ark Hills.

Would love to write more about these wonderful clocks by Erwin Sattler

Now the one which I could not cover - was not available back when I reported on "preview".

Urwerk EMC (Electro Mechanical Control).

The adjusting screw is on top of this photo "Fine Tuning".

Kinda cool like the robotic wrist

Second hand on upper-right, time on lower-right, power reserve (80 hours) on lower-left, and "timegrapher" on the upper-left.

How this "thing" works?

This shows, in this position, 4 seconds faster (per day) and it can be adjusted by the owner.

Next, I want to show Moser's new line-up of its Endeavour Perpetual Calendar (formerly known as Perpetual One). Variation is very attractive.

Palladium with blue gradation dial - beautiful blue!

Titanium black dial dial - sexy and sporty!

All five side by side - the second from the right is also Titanium case but "all gold version" including the dial, hands, and even the bridges. Very light and so comfortable as another sporty model.

Check out the gold bridges, etc. But, then again, with Titanium case, very, very light.

Curvy back is made to fit nicely on the wrist.

Note that the center Titanium/ Black dial has small "&" and that is the "new" logo of Moser going forward. Matt strap is also nice.

The back side of the Titanium case and black dial version - very, very nice looking.

Tempting

Now the short interview time:

Mr. Nicholas Hofmann, Regional Sales Director - H. Moser & Cie., Moser Schaffhausen AG

Company pin.

On his wrist is Endeavour Perpetual Calendar.

"As you may know, we are now re-born and we will focus more on conveying messages, stories of the brand and models. Thank you for your loyalty, thank you for your patience. We have not introduced novelties in the past years and Venturer series will be the first one in a while. We have entered the new era with the Venturer series. There are also something interesting in our sleeve and please look forward to it coming this September. We are proud to be featured in this exhibition."

Mr. Cyrano Devanthey, Research & Development Dpt., URWERK.

On his wrist is UR-105M in Titanium.

"Including myself, most staff are watchmakers and we talk about watches all the time. We have been thinking that Japanese market would be challenging but with big potential market, and looking for a right partner. Now we are so happy that we have found one and we are very excited about our future in the Japanese market.

We also want to urge and encourage all the watch lovers to see our watches in person and handle them to see how they actually work - our watches cannot convey the attractiveness through the photos alone."

Nice looking gentlemen - please visit Japan again soon! Best wishes for your success in the Japanese market.

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Now, let's go to Peter Speake Marin, Piece Unique Tourbillon Minute Repeater!

See the engraved face? Nice!

Piece Unique, wonderful engraving.

Hammers and "London/ Geneva" inscription.

Tourbillon minute repeater!

On my wrist.

Very nice finish.

Beautiful dial!

.. and the sound.

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Some of the attendees' watches - a pair of you-know-what

Ah, another wonderful indie brand - DB5 - I love this simple, roman index, white dial, blue hands.....

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Thank you very much:

Mr. Shigeta, East Japan - the Organizer of the event.

Mr. Nicholas Hofmann, H. Moser & Cie.

Mr. Cyrano Devanthey, Urwerk

Thank you!

Ken

About the De Bethune DB25 Ref. DB25

De Bethune DB25 Reference DB25

The DB25 represents De Bethune's entry in the 44.5mm manual-wind category, distinguished by its silver dial configuration within the DB25 series. This reference launched in 2006 and continues the brand's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie complications.

The 44.5mm case is crafted from 18k white gold with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 30 meters. The manual-winding caliber DB2105 movement provides a substantial 120-hour power reserve. The watch features a leather strap attachment.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking De Bethune's technical approach to timekeeping in a precious metal case. The extended power reserve and manual-wind operation position it for enthusiasts who appreciate hands-on interaction with their timepieces. The 44.5mm sizing places it in contemporary proportions within the independent watchmaking segment.

Specifications

Caliber: DB2105

Case: 18k White Gold

Diameter: 44.5 mm

Dial: Silver

Water Resist.: 30m

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

The Urwerk EMC's 'internal timegrapher' function, allowing owners to measure and adjust the watch's accuracy, is a significant innovation that garnered particular interest.
H. Moser & Cie.'s new perpetual calendars, particularly the all-gold titanium model, were noted for their stunning aesthetics, though one contributor wished for a less glossy case finish.
The Speake-Marin openwork/skeleton watch impressed with its movement and aesthetics, drawing comparisons to a Shinkansen locomotive for its blend of power, speed, and elegance.
One collector found the Urwerk EMC to be one of the least appealing models in Urwerk's line, despite generally appreciating the brand's work, while also noting the Speake-Marin's potentially unwieldy wrist presence.
A question was raised regarding the sound quality of minute repeaters showcased, specifically whether the harmonics had improved since earlier prototypes which were noted for being quite soft.
The author confirmed that the minute repeater sound, while beautiful, had 'less echo or reverberation' compared to some expectations.

The Discussion

KIH

Aug 1, 2014

.. to see how the "internal timegrapher" works :-) Ken

Mostel

Aug 1, 2014

The Urwerk is one of the least appealing IMHO I have ever seen in their line, and I do like the occasional Urwerk , The SM is beautifully made but looks very unwieldy on the wrist. Thanks for this fun report.

keks

Aug 2, 2014

Those new perpetuals from Moser are stunning. Particularly the all gold titanium, somehow wish the case finishing was less glossy like the strap. Would love to find the opportunity to handle one of these at some point. Thanks for a great post.

takashi78

Aug 2, 2014

Minute repeaters, how did you find the sound? When i first heard this model 1-2 years back it was quite soft, granted it was a prototype then. Maybe the harmonics improved. Is this one a finished watch?

vandyke

Aug 2, 2014

Moser does it for me.....the titaniums and their movement are stunning. The urwerk is a beast.

PeeCeeBee

Aug 2, 2014

But the vagabondage 2 is simply gorgeous. Thanks for sharing.

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Tokyo Watch Exhibition: Urwerk, Moser, Speake-Marin

About the De Bethune DB25 Ref. DB25

Specifications

Key Points from the Discussion

Continue the conversation

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